Broaches

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Dec 24, 2014
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Could someone point me to a few, or possibly a set of decent (but not overly expensive) broaches? I tried searching and really cannot find anything. I've heard of a John Perry?, making real nice ones. But again, not looking to spend $100s here. Just a little something to help out with tang slots.
 
It looks they only have them in 3/16. I use 3/16 blade stock but, that doesn't give me much room to work. I'd like to find an 1/8"

Edit: I found a thin chunk of 1084 laying around and quickly ground some teeth on it. Hardened it quick and it seems to Cut. If this somewhat works, I'll have to take a bit more time and make a better one.
 
I bought one of those Riverside broaches and later bought two from John Perry. All I can say is that while most of Al's stuff is really top drawer, you get what you pay for with broaches. The inserts on those that thread onto the shaft are not the greatest design.
 
I tig welded a thick and aggressive jig saw blade to a small screw driver I flattened out. A little grinding and works like a charm.
 
Grobet makes some small Ergo Handle Rasps that can side cut and get into tight places. I have a set and fing them invaluable. Around $70 for 5.
 
Grobet makes some small Ergo Handle Rasps that can side cut and get into tight places. I have a set and fing them invaluable. Around $70 for 5.

You have a link for this set?
I found a 6 piece needle rasp set with handle for $40 but, not Grobet. And I'm not sure the diameters of the tasks themselves.
 
It's not hard to make your own. I used a piece of 1/8" thick 01 tool steel and then hardened it.

The basic tooth profile for a broach is shown below and can be carefully formed with files. Note that each successive cutting tooth has a deeper cut than the one before it.

400px-Broach_tooth_geometry_svg.png

Here is the finished broach that I made:

IMG_3666-650.jpg
 
I have been using sawzall blades ground to my liking. I even use several together to make them thicker. I have been meaning to make one, but these work pretty good.
 
I recently started making more hidden tang knives. I came up with three tools that make very quick work of fitting the tang to the handle.
First is a sheetrock saw that I ground down so it would hollow out the handle.
the second is a rasp drill that Walmart sells, also wood working catalogs have them.
The third tool is a broach made by Bruce Bump. USA Knifemakers sell them. The broach is very well made and has a carbide insert.
With these three tools I can fit a hidden tang to the handle very quickly.
 

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It's not hard to make your own. I used a piece of 1/8" thick 01 tool steel and then hardened it.

The basic tooth profile for a broach is shown below and can be carefully done with files.

View attachment 619280

Here is the finished broach that I made:

IMG_3666-650.jpg

Thanks for that tooth pattern. I'll try another one out and take my time. The one I quickly made earlier (took about 10 minutes) was working, but I snapped it. Should they be tempered to or is that not necessary?
 
I recently started making more hidden tang knives. I came up with three tools that make very quick work of fitting the tang to the handle.
First is a sheetrock saw that I ground down so it would hollow out the handle.
the second is a rasp drill that Walmart sells, also wood working catalogs have them.
The third tool is a broach made by Bruce Bump. USA Knifemakers sell them. The broach is very well made and has a carbide insert.
With these three tools I can fit a hidden tang to the handle very quickly.

Thanks Tom. I'll have to check those out.
 
Are you guys getting everything done with a broach, or do you have 5" long 1/8" drill bits to pilot the hole?

Been thinking of modding a $5 jab saw.
 
It is fairly easy to make your own broaches. You will need them in various widths. You can make them out of scrap pieces or cutoffs from the steel bars you use for your blades. You can make them from sawzall blades, old handsaws, circular saw blades, files, etc. I have made a small variety of broaches but I also use chisels and have modified some of them as well.
 
sawzall blades with the spine ground off. stack as many blades together as you need to fit the width of your tang.
 
I forgot than Mr. Bump was making those. Hard to go wrong with anything he makes.
 
I made my own out of a sawzall blade and love it. It works VERY quickly and gives me perfect results. The sawzall blades are already set to go with the right hook to the teeth, right angle......everything. All you have to do is grind all the teeth off except three or four at the end and you're set.

I'm sure the Jon Perry and Bruce Bump broaches are excellent, but personally, I really can't see spending the time and/or money for something like that when the sawzall one can be made in minutes. And though I've never tried one from those guys, I'd be shocked if they worked so much better than the sawzall blade that it justified getting one, for me.
 
Thanks for that tooth pattern. I'll try another one out and take my time. The one I quickly made earlier (took about 10 minutes) was working, but I snapped it. Should they be tempered to or is that not necessary?

Yes, they need to be tempered. I don't know of a time when you should use untempered matinsite. It is a cutting tool after all, not all that much different then a knife.
 
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