Broke a nice 3/16 carbide endmill.

This one not very smart kid in my Metals and Manufacturing class tried taking almost one inch off in one pass while going pretty fast. I didn't see it, all I heard was the ting. He broke the probably one inch diameter endmill right half...on aluminum.
 
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javand said:
If you don't want to setup for flood coolant, you may want to research different end mill coatings, some coated carbide is designed to be run completely dry. Otherwise, you'll likely be better off with HSS/Co and a spray bottle filled with appropriate coolant. Although inherent chatter or lack of rigidity in your setup could be contributing also. Carbide don't like that.. HSS/Cobalt is much more forgiving in that regard.
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That's generally true about carbide and HSS in a less-than-rigid-setup. But long skinny cutters like you use in slotting you just about need carbide because it is substantially stiffer.

I like the ALTiN coating on Lakeshore Carbide's cutters. It is about all I use in steel anymore. It is true that it holds up better dry, assuming you're not re-cutting chips.
 
thing is that there are many ways to "SKIN THAT CAT " and the mostly depend on the gear you have in your shop
 
Patrice, I had a round-column mill-drill for almost 10 years before upgrading to a b'port. I made a lot of good parts with it. It took a while to learn it's limitations and respect them. Trust me when I say that the quill is very flexible on these, and everything will be better if you keep it as short as possible.

One really cool trick to re-align the head after raising or lowering it is to attach a laser pointer to the head casting (i.e. not the flimsy sheet metal belt guard), and on the wall across the shop, mount a mirror so the laser spot comes back to a target on the machine. Just align the laser to the target after you move the head.

This process is amazingly accurate.
 
No there is a good tip. I have been trying to figure out a simple method and there it is. That and a long handled 1/2" ratchet.
 
Dan, I have literally slotted hundreds of guards with my bench-top mill.
If I get a few requests, I'll post it up.
Otherwise, I have a pretty full WIP on another site I can link to.

Dan Pierson said:
I'd appreciate that even if your technique turns out not to work with my little mini mill.
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Karl B. Andersen said:
If I get a few requests, I'll post it up.
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REQUEST! REQUEST! REQUEST! REQUEST! REQUEST! REQUEST! REQUEST! REQUEST!
Is that enough? ;)
Kidding aside, I would love to see how you do it Karl as I am sure many others would. I know that for some, problems slotting guards is what keeps them from trying take downs and such.

Roadracer, I really appreciate the tip. You just delayed the production of the Khukuri cause I have to go buy what I need to try that first!. :thumbup:
 
Karl B. Andersen said:
Dan, I have literally slotted hundreds of guards with my bench-top mill.
If I get a few requests, I'll post it up.
Otherwise, I have a pretty full WIP on another site I can link to.
Click to expand...

Please! :D I should have mentioned how interested I am!


lol here is my thought process this week... just to show how many questions pop up when cutting in a simple slot! I did a lot of reading and asking questions this week so now I understand most of this but am just getting hands on experience.

I just slotted a blade and it was tough to do. The two types of cutting go against each other... I did a light climbing pass to clean up the slot but it still wasn't perfect. I was thinking I should use a smaller end mill, find my edge then do a few passes. Then go back and clean up the ends? Go partial depth then do a few more passes to hog material? Bump the mill a few steps at a time into the material? Should I drill both ends then go from there? Speed and feed? I thought it would be like running an etch a sketch! :p :D
 
Karl B. Andersen said:
Dan, I have literally slotted hundreds of guards with my bench-top mill.
If I get a few requests, I'll post it up.
Otherwise, I have a pretty full WIP on another site I can link to.
Click to expand...

Please do. I'm going to get a mill soon. I dont like drilling cutting and filing the slot.
 
BTW another bit saver is to mill the back out a bit over sized and then you only have like 1/8 inch of guard to slot (back side dont have to be overly pretty)
 
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