Broke a screw off in my sebenza

I'd venture to guess that even if you could get a tight bight with pliers or vice-grips, that you'd be wasting your time. That screw is difficult to get out without being broke off. If you do decide to drill it out, be sure to center-punch it as close to the center as you can. Use a small bit to bore through and then a progressively larger bit, until you've created an area large enough to use an easy-out bit. Tap the easy-out with a hammer to seat it firmly into the bore, then back it out slowly, but with firm pressure. Unfortunate that this happened, but fortunately you purchased a knife from one of the best supported manufacturers on the plant. Good luck crazyengineer.
 
Man. I want to cry for you. I wonder what kind of steel the screw was made from. Or where CR buys them from.
 
Hopefully you didn't cross-thread it. And I wouldn't mess with trying to drill it out or use an easy out. Too much risk of damaging the frame threads. Just send it in.
 
What is it you think CRK are going to do, wave a magic wand over it ?

Hopefully you didn't cross-thread it. And I wouldn't mess with trying to drill it out or use an easy out. Too much risk of damaging the frame threads. Just send it in.
 
I had the same thing happen. I sent it in to CR and had it back a week later good as new.

Thanks,
 
They dont have any method that you couldnt do yourself. You just get their warranty. But in this case you made the right decision. At least if they mess up the threads you would hope they make an honest call and just replace that ti plate
 
Well... I didnt go as far as to break that same screw but i stripped it. Pretty cheap screws if u ask me. But its not that bad. I can still get it out if i want to and order a new one.
 
What is it you think CRK are going to do, wave a magic wand over it ?

Since they made the knife and the risk for the repair would be on them at that point, well, I think even you can figure it out from there.
 
It is a very simple thing to do and the "risk" you cry about is rather minimal. I have removed many broken screws in my time and have yet to destroy a thread, but then I'm talking from experience so what do I know ? :rolleyes:.....

Since they made the knife and the risk for the repair would be on them at that point, well, I think even you can figure it out from there.
 
It is a very simple thing to do and the "risk" you cry about is rather minimal. I have removed many broken screws in my time and have yet to destroy a thread, but then I'm talking from experience so what do I know ? :rolleyes:.....

Wow, a genuine dick. I don't care what you know, you are not the OP and he asked for suggestions. Wipe the sand out of your vagina. You really will feel better.
 
Well I'll be sending my knife out on Monday or Tuesday, school got in the way and I haven't had time to get anything done with it.

I'll post back here once it is done and I get word back
 
Wow, a genuine dick. I don't care what you know, you are not the OP and he asked for suggestions. Wipe the sand out of your vagina. You really will feel better.
Seriously? In the short time I've been here, I struggle to identify anyone whose provided more helpful advice than Haze. Yes, he's rather direct at times, but that hardly warrants such an insulting reply. There's a section on the forum for replies like that and it's not the CRK sub forum.
 
Seriously? In the short time I've been here, I struggle to identify anyone whose provided more helpful advice than Haze. Yes, he's rather direct at times, but that hardly warrants such an insulting reply. There's a section on the forum for replies like that and it's not the CRK sub forum.

He overreacted to my suggestion to the OP. If he couldn't have replied civilly he should have kept it to himself. I couldn't care less if you think he's been helpful. My post is gone, but maybe you should go back and read the whole thread. He's got a bad attitude.
 
If you have a great warranty, send it in. If not, flatten the screw shank with a file or Dremel tool. Put a dimple in the center of the screw shank with an automatic center punch. Now drill the shank with a left hand drill. With any luck, you will snag the broken screw with the drill and back it out. If the broken screw is in a through hole, use a right handed drill. With any luck, you will snag the screw and push it out of the hole. Broken taps and/or broken screws can be dissolved out of Titanium handles with Ferric Chloride or battery acid (30% H2SO4). If you have a stripped threaded hole, they now make Helicoil inserts all the way down to #0X80TPI. Most pocket clip screws are #2X56TPI. Helicoil kits contain special taps, drills, inserts, and insertion tools. Helicoils are often used to refurbish the spark plug holes on Aluminum block engines. I use them to anchor pocket clips in plastic (Valox, G-10) knife handles.
 
It's good to hear you're getting it sorted out. :thumbup:

Well I'll be sending my knife out on Monday or Tuesday, school got in the way and I haven't had time to get anything done with it.

I'll post back here once it is done and I get word back

He overreacted to my suggestion to the OP. If he couldn't have replied civilly he should have kept it to himself. I couldn't care less if you think he's been helpful. My post is gone, but maybe you should go back and read the whole thread. He's got a bad attitude.

This thread isn't about me or your opinion of my attitude so let's just leave it at that.
 
If you have a great warranty, send it in. If not, flatten the screw shank with a file or Dremel tool. Put a dimple in the center of the screw shank with an automatic center punch. Now drill the shank with a left hand drill. With any luck, you will snag the broken screw with the drill and back it out. If the broken screw is in a through hole, use a right handed drill. With any luck, you will snag the screw and push it out of the hole. Broken taps and/or broken screws can be dissolved out of Titanium handles with Ferric Chloride or battery acid (30% H2SO4). If you have a stripped threaded hole, they now make Helicoil inserts all the way down to #0X80TPI. Most pocket clip screws are #2X56TPI. Helicoil kits contain special taps, drills, inserts, and insertion tools. Helicoils are often used to refurbish the spark plug holes on Aluminum block engines. I use them to anchor pocket clips in plastic (Valox, G-10) knife handles.

Well, if I was to do it myself (rather than sending it in), I probably would have tried notching It and using a flat screw driver, the. Move to a left hand drill if it didn't work.

I didn't even think of using a helicoil on it though (if needed). I have used then before at work with great success. I will also have to remember the acid trick if I ever need it
 
well, I sent my Sebenza off on Monday, I'll post more here when I here from CRK when it gets there

thanks for all the help
 
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