Broke my Spyderco Police

S

stingray7

Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
10
The tip broke off when I stupidly tried to pop off a decorative bolt cap and pryed in the wrong spot. What's the best way to go about repairing this. Its just the very tip, probably a millimeter, but it has no point now.
 
Use a very coarse sharpening stone (or maybe some sandpaper with a hard backing) and remove metal along the spine near the tip until it creates a point again. My favorite method for repointing though is to replicate the Busse style "penetrator tip", which basically means just putting two small bevels on the spine near the tip.
 
moving-van.jpg
 
yeah what yoda said. and don't forget to resharpen the tip when you grinded a new one on it, because it'll be dull as heck
 
yoda4561 said:
Use a very coarse sharpening stone (or maybe some sandpaper with a hard backing) and remove metal along the spine near the tip until it creates a point again. My favorite method for repointing though is to replicate the Busse style "penetrator tip", which basically means just putting two small bevels on the spine near the tip.
Click to expand...

To expand upon this , he is right - use a coarse stone to begin with , ending with an hard stone such as Arkansas , polishing off any scratches incurred.
 
So just to recap, I should first remove metal along the spine near the tip to recreate a point (kinda like a mini tanto), and then bevel that same area of the spine to create the penetrator tip?
 
The thing I like about the penetrator style tip grind is that it's easy to repoint (and very sharply at that) whenever it gets dull/dinged.
 
no no no :eek: , if you want to keep your knife looking original, DON'T do the spine-part! edge-part only, that's all that's needed
 
Tips are repaired from the spine. That's the best way to maintain a decent edge profile. If you repair from the edge, particularly on a folder, you can end up with the point above the handle when it's closed. You can do some 'blending' on the spine side which will make it look right. Also you're moving the edge into thicker metal if you do edge repair.

Draw it out with a Sharpie... you'll see which looks better.

cbw
 
cbwx34 said:
Tips are repaired from the spine. That's the best way to maintain a decent edge profile. If you repair from the edge, particularly on a folder, you can end up with the point above the handle when it's closed. You can do some 'blending' on the spine side which will make it look right. Also you're moving the edge into thicker metal if you do edge repair.

Draw it out with a Sharpie... you'll see which looks better.

cbw
Click to expand...


what?! no way, i've done it a zillion times, and regrinding from the spine is the stupidest thing you can do, because your spine will look like crap afterwards, the idea is to leave the spine looking all clean and original and work on the EDGE.

if you regrind the EDGE and resharpen it afterwards, you won't even notice the knife has changed, apart from a slight shortage in blade-length.

i've myself NEVER EVER heard nor seen a tip going upwards ending with the up with the point above the handle in closed position.....what a load of nonsense. you either don't have a clue what you're doing, or you do it all wrong....... :yawn: :thumbdn:

wha'evah! i do wha' i wan'!

denn
 
dennis75,

If you look at where the spine comes out of the folder when it's closed, you can see what I mean. Particularly on some Spydercos, it comes up quite soon. If you repair it from the edge, that's where you're tip will end up. It's really not "nonsense".

Also if you repair from the edge, you have a tendency to round the edge up to try and form a tip.

It's easy to reshape the tip from the spine... you can blend it so it won't look bad, in fact on small breaks you cant even tell.

If you want to strengthen the tip, you can bring it up from the edge some. I also recommend giving the knife a good sharpening if it's needed, prior to repairing the tip to reduce the amount needed to reform the tip.

cbw
 
It's far more important to me that the edge retain the proper geometry than worrying about some easily hidden grinding marks on the spine. In this case the damage is less than 1mm, griding from the edge can cause a slight but noticable increase in the thickness of the tip (which to me is unwanted) As well as making it blunter. Grinding from the spine is the most appropriate way to deal wtih this. And you know, I have repaired more than one buggered up tip in my life ;) The first one I ground edge first... and wound up with a blade that was so close to the top of the slot that it would scratch my hand once in a while when I was putting something in that pocket.
 
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