Broken tip

[Ikarus]

Lets invent the BE ALL END ALL of blade materials!

*cough*INFI*cough*

 

[Esav Benyamin]

Sure. Let's try that in a folder, satin finished blade, say 1/8".

 

[Ikarus]

Sure. Let's try that in a folder, satin finished blade, say 1/8".

The stuff of dreams

 

[Rich357]

This makes perfect sense for an EDC folder, whether tactical or slipjoint. It should also work fine for a hunting knife. Heavy choppers really need high carbon steel rather than stainless.

While I can understand the choice of stainless for some field knives, especially for mass market, non-knife enthusiast customers, knife knuts should be able to maintain high carbon blades in the field.

That reminds me of the tales of cops with their blued steel service revolvers glued in their holsters with rust.

 

[Esav Benyamin]

That reminds me of the tales of cops with their blued steel service revolvers glued in their holsters with rust.

Ya mean Columbo?

 

[Rich357]

A couple of month ago I used my little Strider ED neck knife to pry a board in the backyard fence back into position. I didn't really lean on the knife but it did take some force. No problems with the little S30V knife.

Rich

 

[mete]

Fernando , are you confusing powder metallurgy with Crucible Particle Metallurgy ? They are two very different things ! The CPM gives better toughness especially in the transverse direction.

 

[Artilary6]

I just wanted to share what the edge and tip look like after fixing it. After reshaping the tip with the Brown Sharpmaker rod, I reground the edge with the JET wheel, buffed it with the strop wheel then put it through the Sharpmaker process. Man, it was difficult to duplicate the exact angle I had before for the primary edge, so in effect, I reground a totally new angle, since it was slightly different. I need to practice at edge angle repeatability so when it comes time to add more of a relief, I won't have to regrind the edge completely. Tell me how I did for a newbie. Does it look like a shrunk the width/length of the blade by grinding too much? I am paranoid about that happening. I think I have figured out how to copy the IMG codes. Here they are:

 

[Esav Benyamin]

Without a picture of the original in front of me, there are some things I can't tell, but the job you did looks like a perfectly clean, functional tip. Well done.

 

[MORIMOTOM]

Without a picture of the original in front of me, there are some things I can't tell, but the job you did looks like a perfectly clean, functional tip. Well done.

agreed, but it sure looks good now.

 

[CL01]

Ka-Bars are made from 1095 steel. Much tougher than S30V.

5160 is even tougher. I recently slugged a 1/4" thick 5160 knife (@ HRC 61 with a soft back draw) with a sledgehammer and couldn't break it, it eventually bent after 20+ hits -but wouldn't snap. Try doing that with S30V. I bet it'll snap on the first hit. Can you tell I'm an advocate of high carbon steel.

S30V isn't bad, it just isn't tough. Crucible advertises it as "tough" for a stainless, "approaching A2 toughness" -but in all honesty, I've tested it and it isn't as tough as A2... and A2 is no where as tough as 5160.

Personally, if I need to pry or do something with a knife that's going to stress it differently than just slicing or stabbing, I'll use my Ranger knife (Preferably the RAK in 1095 steel, but any good-high quality knife with HC steel should do just fine).

 

[Maqua]

I think all knife tips are initially susceptible to damage of varying degrees. Both my M6 and FBM have home-made penetrator tips on them now due to tip damage. The modded tips are now much tougher after the "cherry busting".

 

[GronK]

I think all knife tips are initially susceptible to damage of varying degrees. Both my M6 and FBM have home-made penetrator tips on them now due to tip damage. The modded tips are now much tougher after the "cherry busting".

I think I'll patent that look! Should make lots of license fees!