Brownells water based Anti-Scale

L

LRB

Joined
Feb 28, 2006
Messages
1,494
Tried it for the first time today. I painted it on with two coats on the 01blade, added a third coat on the edge. Blade had a 220 grit finish. I let it dry for two days before I HT'd. I HT'd in my oven, edge up, with a 30 minute soak at 1500. Quenched, and discovered that some of the coating had run down from the edge about 2/3 up from the ricasso, and an inch back from the point, and I have a little area of decarb in this zone. Not real deep, but more than I like. I am thinking next time maybe use the PBC powder along the edge, and coat the rest with this liquid. I have never had a problem with the PBC, but I cannot trust this new stuff unless someone has a idea of how to prevent what happened.
I got this from Brownells, and it arrived with no info, or even instructions or tips on using it. It has a tendancy to not cover unless you work with it. It tries to draw back into itself on bare metal. Any of you that have used it, if you have some tips on how, I'm all ears.
 
I've never used it, so this is pure speculation, but...Did you clean the blade well with acetone and let it dry prior to painting the antiscale on?

-d
 
That's actually probably what made it draw back on itself. Water does the same thing on a clean blade...not sure what you'd do about that :confused:
 
I just got some in the mail yesterday but haven't had a chance to try it. I bought from Advanced Technical Products Supply in Cincinnati. The guy told me to make sure it was clean and degreased and apply the second coat ONLY after the first coat was completely dry. Also said preheat blade to 100F before coating. The paperwork said preheat 200F when I got it in the mail. Also states that it is imperative that product be thoroughly mixed due to being water based. Wish I could offer more...
Matt Doyle
 
That part of the directions were just a little bit confusing but I believe they were implying that preheating the blade added to the toughness of the coating as well as speeding up the drying time.
Matt
 
I started clean up on the blade yesterday, and immediately disovered that that the anti scale was not there. The blade is almost completely heat scaled. Fortunately, it is not too deep, but I have a days worth of sanding to do. The only part that was not decarbed was most of the edge, and the decarb is pretty shallow. I am going heat treat three blades today using PCB on the edge, and the water based on the rest. This time I applied the water based with the blade hot. We will see.
 
HT'd three more today with PBC on the edge area, and the water based on the rest of the blade. The PBC did it's job well, as usuall, but the new stuff might as well not have even been there. I am going to get the instructions from the maker of this, They are always nice to have, and see if I am not doing something right, but I think I am done with this stuff.
 
LRB,

I made sure to read your initial post three times to be sure. An O1 steel blade soaked for 30 minutes at 1500 F.? Even for my 1/4 inch thick O1 blades I only soak at 1475 for about 5 minutes. You can always redo the HT.

rlinger
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The 30 minute time was unintentional. I usually soak for 20 minutes. The three I just did were in 20 minutes. From what I have read, I do not think 5 minutes is enough for 01. From the results of Kevin Cashens long soak experiments, the longer times do no harm as long as the blade has decarb protection, in which lies the failure in this case. The PBC has worked flawlessly for me, but the water based coating disappears, leaving little trace of ever having been there.
 
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