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Brownie method of sharpening on the Spyderco Sharpmaker

Sals using the corner of the ceramic, when he's laying the knife on the flat, it's to remove the burr as a final step. My method doesn't use the apex of the corner of the ceramic as Sal is demonstrating and each stroke runs the tip onto the flat as it exits. Sal's not demonstrating that in this vid, but it's a great informational video nontheless.

I've had the pleasure of speaking with Sal many years ago after I field tested their Keating designed Chinook and he saw the review.
 
Interesting adaptation. Three comments:

1. If it works for you and produces results you like, that's awesome.
2. It looks to me like you are rounding off your tips gradually, as the tip slips off the stone at the end of every stroke. I don't know if you're experiencing needle sharp tips or just "kinda sharp tips", but that's what it looks like on video.
3. You can hit every bit of the blade, all the way up to the tip using just the flats of the sharp maker. You just have to raise the handle up as you go through the curve and to the tip, then stop with the tip on the flat.

Again, it's an interesting method and if it works for you, congrats.

Brian.
 
Haven't seen any rounding of the tips on the longer knives [ don't carry folder anymore or sharpen them as often as I used to.

With the big blades, I use the ceramic hand held and work Bagwells method of tip sharpening with it that he let us witness at one of the Riddle of Steels in N.O., La. back in the 90's [ it's a 360 radius sharpening that makes the tip a needle point and easier penetration is the result ].

It's seems to be working for quite a few students who've watched me demonstrate in the defensive edged weapons courses over the last 8 years. Understand about raising the handle to catch the tip, it's just not always been repeatable for me and takes more effort to catch it than the method I've come to use.

Thanks
 
Thanks for sharing. I usually avoid the corners all together, I am concerned about to much pressure on the edge due to small contact area but with a light touch...
Btw, what is the knife you use first before the bowie? Good looking !!
 
awestib said:
Thanks for sharing. I usually avoid the corners all together, I am concerned about to much pressure on the edge due to small contact area but with a light touch...
Btw, what is the knife you use first before the bowie? Good looking !!
Click to expand...

It's a Rob Patton custom of L6 tool steel with Az desert ironwood handle/full tang with file work on the spine. Picked it up from him at one of the Riddle of Steels I attended on the Snake River

Thanks for your thoughts
 
I agree with the OP. If you do it the way Spyderco suggests, the final 1/8 of an inch or so doesn't touch the stone. If you angle it as suggested in the video, he is sharpening all the way to the tip of the knife edge.
 
That's been my experience, thus over time figuring out how to catch it before it leaves the stone. :thumbup:
 
ricklee4570 said:
I agree with the OP. If you do it the way Spyderco suggests, the final 1/8 of an inch or so doesn't touch the stone. If you angle it as suggested in the video, he is sharpening all the way to the tip of the knife edge.
Click to expand...

Great tips guys, keep em comming.
 
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