Brush Chopper/ Camp Sword Build

A

AlaskanHunter

Joined
Nov 23, 2013
Messages
306
As I was searching for info on building a large brush chopper, I came across this thread: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/time-for-a-new-bbq-challenge-the-camp-sword.943011/
After reading it, I started to think "wouldn't it be great if some of us did this sort of thing again?" So, with that I will begin my build here, and would like to invite others to join in. If you're up for it, put up some pictures and tell us about it!
My build will be WIP style, but I'd also like to get input and suggestions as I go. This will be my largest blade by 7 inches, and my first attempt at a large chopper and recurve design. Here's my sketch so far.
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I'm trying to design around the primary vegetation I'll be cutting - Alaskan alder, birch, wild rose, devil's club and wild celery (cow parsnip). I'll primarily be dealing with stuff up to 2.5- 3" diameter. My sketch has definitely been influenced by James Helm's work, with a little inspiration from the bolo and kukri designs tossed in. It will have a 15" blade, 5.5" handle, for an overall length of 20.5". I'm planning on forge welding up a few layers of 15N20 that I got from JT to get it thick enough - I'm thinking 3/16ths or so. Handle will probably be wood (walnut or birch) or moose antler. I'm still on the fence about whether or not to use bolsters or a lanyard loop. If I do make a lanyard loop, it'll be in front of the handle, not behind.
 
I think the front of the handle lanyard loop is the way to go. The only think I might change would be the swedge. If you end up doing an batonning, it would definitely chew up the branch striking the spine of the knife.
 
JG Custom Metal Works said:
I think the front of the handle lanyard loop is the way to go. The only think I might change would be the swedge. If you end up doing an batonning, it would definitely chew up the branch striking the spine of the knife.
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I suppose I could ditch the swedge, but I doubt I'll be doing much (if any) batonning. If I do, is there any reason not to turn the top of the blade into a continuous curve to the tip? I'm also considering turning the swedge into an axe-like convex edge for chopping bone (splitting ribs or pelvis when butchering a moose), but I'm worried that the handle design won't be all that useful/ comfortable upside down.
 
Many handles are pretty comfortable still in the reverse direction for short spells. I use my condor viking machete in such a fashion so I have a billhook and panga edges to use.

I think the top guard is unnecessary. Also, I think the swedge could be a good way to bring the weight back a little. I do love that design and have been considering working with a maker on something similar. Something of a bolo/kuhkri mix but I find a lot of kuhkris to be to far weight forward and very tiring to swing for a lot of work. After getting an ontario SP53 I think I would get the belly angled more away from the handle as the spine needs to be parallel to the cutting surface too much and can make it a bit odd cutting against a chopping block/stump.

I also think allowing room for a two-hand or hand and a half grip wouldn't be horrible if it's going to be a hefty blade, but that's my personal preference.
 
I ground my metal clean, welded up my billet (wirefeed welded entire perimeter), stuck it in the forge (reducing flame) and attempted to set my weld.
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I've used this method several times before with 100% success, but not this time. Might have had something to do with the size of the billet - 3"x24" can't be welded up in a single heat in my forge. Sorry, no pictures of in the forge or at heat.
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I was kinda surprised when I cut the welded perimeter off that there was minimal scale inside the billet. So I ground it clean, sprayed WD40 on the pieces, and re-welded the billet up. This time I was a bit more careful to avoid pinholes in the bead. I'll try to forge weld it again tomorrow, and this time I'll make sure the steel is about as hot as I can get it without sparklers (pretty easy to do in my forge).
 
One suggestion for the weld (I think 24" long would be tough to do without a power hammer with big dies).
I'd cut those into 6" pieces, forge weld that into a thicker billet then forge that down into the length you want. I know that seems a lot of work, but there are a couple of advantages to that. First, you can get the whole billet set and welded in single heats, not having to do it in sections. Also, to get a really solid welds between each piece, you really need to forge it to at least 50% of the original depth.
 
weo said:
One suggestion for the weld (I think 24" long would be tough to do without a power hammer with big dies).
I'd cut those into 6" pieces, forge weld that into a thicker billet then forge that down into the length you want. I know that seems a lot of work, but there are a couple of advantages to that. First, you can get the whole billet set and welded in single heats, not having to do it in sections. Also, to get a really solid welds between each piece, you really need to forge it to at least 50% of the original depth.
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Your probably right, I'm just really struggling with motivation to forge all that out with an "armstrong powerhammer". If I forge it out as is, I'd have just over 1/3 thickness reduction.
 
I'm not sure I'd worry about a 33% reduction to keep a solid weld, as long as it's a good one. It's possible to have a good weld with less than that, as evidenced by low layer count feather patterns.
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It's my understanding that you just have to keep the forging at higher temps than you may be used to in order to avoid splitting the weld.
 
Well, I chopped it in thirds and it ended up 7 3/4". Got it forge welded and started stretching it out. It's now at 10", and my arm feels like Jell-o. Tomorrow I'll cut the wirefeed welds off and see if it set good. Forging is definitely going to take longer than I thought.
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Thanks Josh, but let's keep this about Mr AlaskanHunter.

Speaking of which,
AlaskanHunter said:
It's now at 10", and my arm feels like Jell-o. ... Forging is definitely going to take longer than I thought.
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not sure about how much forging you've done, but don't be too surprised if it goes quicker than you think. Don't forget that in this last session, your forging both welded and started to draw out the chunk. Also, drawing out a thick piece is harder and takes longer than a thinner piece. And, now as it' gets closer to the final target thickness, you can start the profiling in the same heats as drawing it out.
 
weo said:
Thanks Josh, but let's keep this about Mr AlaskanHunter.

Speaking of which,

not sure about how much forging you've done, but don't be too surprised if it goes quicker than you think. Don't forget that in this last session, your forging both welded and started to draw out the chunk. Also, drawing out a thick piece is harder and takes longer than a thinner piece. And, now as it' gets closer to the final target thickness, you can start the profiling in the same heats as drawing it out.
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I don't mind a little chatter about other blades Weo.
I've done a decent bit of forging, and every time I attempt a bigger piece, I remember that I need to get a powerhammer or press before I try another. I'm at 10" and I need 20 1/2", this is still going to take a while. I'm also concerned about a couple of "shadows" that I saw as I was finishing up last night. Pretty sure that those shadows in the steel are areas that didn't weld near the surface.
 
AlaskanHunter said:
I'm also concerned about a couple of "shadows" that I saw as I was finishing up last night. Pretty sure that those shadows in the steel are areas that didn't weld near the surface.
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I'll keep my metaphorical fingers crossed.
Although I've never tried, I've heard that sometimes you can fix this by taking it up to a welding heat the next time and re-weld, and if the shadows include the edges, you can sometimes get some flux in there to clean out any oxides.
The times that this has happened to me, I've just ground the blister out, but it's been on the first stack of a damascus billet that I was going to cut and re-stack at least a few times, so i figured any loss of parts of a layer wouldn't matter in the final piece.
 
Well, those shadows were unwelded places. Lots of borax, a wire brush and about 8 hours of forge time and I've got them taken care of .... I think. Early on in the forging, I was having places that looked welded open up as I forged "against the grain" of the stack. More borax, heat, and hammering. Now I'm pretty sure I've got good steel and the forging to shape went pretty well, however I'm at 18" and I need around 21". Considering how I plan on using this thing, I don't think it's a good idea to thin it out any more. So, I'll probably forge up a smaller billet and make a very long scarf weld. All of it will be in the handle, but I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not. This has been by far my most challenging forgewelding project, probably in part due to the size and part due to the flopped first attempt.
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Please tell me that photo is just an arranged "glamour shot". I hope you don't really forge on all that grass and hay.
 
It is grass, but not as bad as it looks. I haven't forged since May, so that grew up where my forge is. It's sopping wet from rain and simply won't lite. I'm planning on putting in a gravel pad there, but couldn't rent the tractor or get the gravel to do it last week. After attempting to rid it with a controlled burn (yes its legal here and hose was in hand, extinguisher at arms reach) and failing, I figured it would be safe enough for now. My apologies, I didn't intend to set a bad example.
 
No problem, just making sure. People have burned down their forge when grass and hay catch fire .. ask Raymond Richard.
I would spray some roundup on that patch of grass at least 20 feet around the anvil.
 
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It's been a tough learning curve on this one. I've had lots of struggles with forgewelding and estimating how much metal I needed. It's as good as I can get it for this attempt. The blade is pretty rough, but I don't dare attempt to grind it out perfectly flat or I'll end up too thin. Lessons learned for round 2 I guess. In the meantime, I'll HT this and put an edge on it and test it out. I know that I'll want this one tempered back more than a knife, but I'm unsure how much, maybe 475-500 F? I'm also planning on drawing back the spine to a blue/purple (550-600F?).
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