Buck 110. Old or New? Differences?

MTHall720

MTHall720

Joined
Sep 21, 2010
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I am debating whether to get a new 110 sometime thus summer or whether to watch eBay for one made in either the 90's or the 80's. Question: are the older ones much different either in overall quality or robust build than the new ones?

What do you think? Would like opinions. Thanks.
 
i know squat on the old ones as far as quality, but i own a new one and was less than impressed. i own other bucks and they have been a good bang for the buck especially the vantage line, but the 110 i got has allot of blade play more than any other lock back i own and i have more than a few from various manufacturers. also a bit of side to side play, not overkill, but more than i'd like. i use it as a beater, because i just don't trust it or like it much due to the minor issues. mine may be that 1 in 10,000 problem child though, but it left me unimpressed with the 110 especially after all the good reviews year after year.
 
@ jbmonkey - thats a simple fix for the side to side play that is, take a coke can and cut it up, and slide a piece on each side of the blade (no washers so no worries) then wrap it in cloth or leather and put it in a vise and squeeze slowly, this will tighten up the pin and the aluminum spacers should help keep it from over tightening, but take your time when your on the vise. or instead of a vise use a tack hammer, basically how they tightened pivots on the traditional patterns without having to send the back to the maker

the Buck 110 is a great knife (aside from monkey's, which is a bummer to hear about such a great classic) and as far as my knowledge goes, the only difference is that the older 110's didnt have as rounded edges along the handles as the new ones, so the new ones seem more ergonomic. and pending which timer period you get one youll see difference in pin numbers like the moderns are 3pins since they show the lockback pin, and scale pins, olders vary from2-4pins, the only reason this matters is for collectors perspective
 
The only difference between new and old is that the old ones were made in California, if that matters to you. Go to the Buck subforum to see when they stopped making them in 440c( I think it was mid 80's).
 
Would a plastic mallet work instead of a tack hammer if I get one that has some wobble? First time I ever heard of that on the 100. Sounds like since I am interested in getting a nice one it may not make much difference between old or new.
 
brets-ftw said:
@ jbmonkey - thats a simple fix for the side to side play that is, take a coke can and cut it up, and slide a piece on each side of the blade (no washers so no worries) then wrap it in cloth or leather and put it in a vise and squeeze slowly, this will tighten up the pin and the aluminum spacers should help keep it from over tightening, but take your time when your on the vise. or instead of a vise use a tack hammer, basically how they tightened pivots on the traditional patterns without having to send the back to the maker

the Buck 110 is a great knife (aside from monkey's, which is a bummer to hear about such a great classic) and as far as my knowledge goes, the only difference is that the older 110's didnt have as rounded edges along the handles as the new ones, so the new ones seem more ergonomic. and pending which timer period you get one youll see difference in pin numbers like the moderns are 3pins since they show the lockback pin, and scale pins, olders vary from2-4pins, the only reason this matters is for collectors perspective
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that is a really good idea, thank you Sir! i will try that this weekend.
 
I think the only thing that might be better on the older ones is 440C, but as mentioned you would have to find a model from the 80's that was in decent shape. Buck switched to 425 and then 420HC I think sometime in the late 80's-early 90's. I personally do not think the older ones have much to offer over the newer. I have about 6 of the modern production 110s laying around and none of them display the bladeplay mentioned earlier. Great knife for the money.
 
You can also watch the Buck web site for their Web Special build out knives. A few months back there was a run of 110's with 154 CM blades and recently and now gone, there was ATS-34 bladed 110's.
 
You could have a Buck Custom Shop 110 made for you.You can have S30V or 420HC steel and a wide variety of handle materials,wood,horn,and shell mostly.I can tell you that Buck does an awesome job on those!
 
@MTHall720 - i wouldnt expect it, i used a normal claw hammer on one of my traditional mariner knives, as long as its wrapped in cloth or leather to protect from scuffing any hammer should be fine, but if you use anything bigger then a tack hammer id use only wrist action light taps, slow and easy
 
My Dad has an old one, and I have a new one. The newer one, to me, is more comfortable. The grips are more rounded than the older. As for edge retention, I'd say about the same. Both cut the same way. I'd say buy a new one. UNLESS..... you find one at a flea market, because I know you can send it to buck for a makeover. Just my two cents.
 
Vanguard41xx said:
My Dad has an old one, and I have a new one. The newer one, to me, is more comfortable. The grips are more rounded than the older. ...
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You should try a finger groove 110, now THAT'S comfy.

31Z7F0S5PPL._SS500_.jpg


- OS
 
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