Buck 110 or FRN Endura

According to your first post you already own both these knives. What possible benefit is there in getting rid of one now? Used they'll only bring $20 and maybe even less after shipping. Carry one until you get bored with it or it breaks then carry the other, or rotate them. Never get rid of a knife, they're just like guns. Sell one now and you'll just find a reason you want another one in six months to a year.
 
I have one of the new Endura's, edge is 0.015-0.020" thick and 15-17 degrees per side, this is above average in terms of an efficient cutting profile, and Spyderco NIB sharpness is usually very high. As with any knife it is possible to get one which is significantly thinner or thicker than the norm and thus skew the perceptions significantly.

-Cliff
 
J85909266 said:
The 110 is a slightly better slicer due to blade geometry, but the Endura out performs it in every way other wise, and is a damn good slicer to boot. I have both, and I think Rhino is vastly exaggerating the 110 VS. the Endura.
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"Vastly" exaggerating? :rolleyes:

I'm just reporting what I've experienced over the last month of so of testing them side by side. The boxes I've shredded and plastic wrappers and bags I've opened paint an obvious picture. The reader is obviously free to take it (or leave it) for what it's worth to them.
 
Cliff Stamp said:
I have one of the new Endura's, edge is 0.015-0.020" thick and 15-17 degrees per side, this is above average in terms of an efficient cutting profile, and Spyderco NIB sharpness is usually very high. As with any knife it is possible to get one which is significantly thinner or thicker than the norm and thus skew the perceptions significantly.
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That may be the case with the Endura I've been carrying and using. I know I've ground the edge bevel down even with the primary grind of the blade itself (maybe a little more), and it just doesn't do as well as I expected. Maybe I just got one that was ground a little too thick.

I know I was happier with my original Endura, but my memories from years ago aren't a valid comparison to my more recent, somewhat subjective qualitative observations.

Does Spyderco "reblade" for a reasonable fee? Maybe I need to start fresh with a "new" one. Of course, given the nature of the handle, a new knife is probably a better idea, but I'm not motivated to spend another $50 to buy another of something that isn't working that well for me.
 
Love the classic look and feel of a 110 ...... but I never have the opportunity to carry around a knife that big and HEAVY and not feel silly doing it (I'm not a hunter and, with 2 small kids and a very taxing job, I don't get out into the woods as much as I'd like).

My Endura, on the other hand, sees a lot of carry time. I can carry it around in my jeans or in my coat pocket (even a dressy sport coat) and never know it's there.
 
I'd have to keep both. Those are two of my favorite knives ever. If I had to get rid of everything else, I'd keep a 110 and an Endura.
 
I've got both, and I carry the 110. The Endura is clipped to the visor of my truck. For everyday use I find the 110 is more comfortable and does all that I ask of it. I did put a bandit on it so I can open it one handed.
Bob
 
Keep both and carry them according to how you dress for the day. 110 goes better with jeans. Endura goes better with cargos. :D
 
rhino said:
That may be the case with the Endura I've been carrying and using.
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I have seen grinds vary a lot even on high end blades, my small Sebenza's edge thickness was only half as thick as it was supposed to be, thus any durability work with it would not well represent the behavior of the normal profile. You can get similar effects with cutting ability, Buck is also known for efficient edge profiles and high initial sharpness in general as well.

VG-10 isn't difficult to machine, it would not be a long process to slim down the edge by bringing down the primary grind, even without power equipment. I use a coarse waterstone to reset edges, and unless I am really careful freehanding I'll reset the edges from 15 to ten degrees without even meaning to in a couple of minutes if I let my angle attention wander.

If you have an x-coarse waterstone and some lapping grit you could bring down the primary grind in 10-15 minutes. This will help on ropes, woods, and such, but the thicker stock and sabre nature of the grind will still be an issue on thick cardboards, large vegetables, etc. .

-Cliff
 
I would keep the Buck 110.

Why? I think the Endura is too big and I don't like the shape of the blade.

Plus the 110 is a classic and will serve you well. ;)
 
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