Buck *110* refurb?

A

aircooledTOM

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Jan 27, 2016
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I have some questions about sending my 110 to Buck for this "spa" treatment I keep reading about. I sent an email directly to Joe Houser, but I thought I'd ask here too.

I'm new here and I have searched and seen the results of the warranty reconditioning treatments on these knives and I must say that I'm very impressed. But I was unable to find much information about keeping the blade. I don't want it re-bladed. It has significant sentimental value, it was my father's and he passed away about a year ago.

The blade has some corrosion on both sides, and the bolsters are badly corroded. It needs a general buff-polish and sharpening service. I'd also like the blade polished up a little, but mostly I need the rust taken care of.

Will they be able to get the rusting and staining out of the blade? I don't want new scales or a new blade, I just want everything cleaned up.
IMG_20160128_110618054_HDR_zpshwuykyhu.jpg.html

IMG_20160128_110601036_HDR_zpsuv3bavvi.jpg.html


Your thoughts would be much appreciated. This knife was found (stolen) by my first dog a Belgian Sheepdog who loved to "find" leather things and bring them home with him. Once he found a sheath with a 110 in it. He ate the sheath. He didn't eat the knife. We could never figure out which neighbor had left a 110 and sheath out to dry, but somebody did.... Anyway, 30 years later, I want it fixed up...

Thanks again for your help, I think I'm going to like this forum.
 
Welcome Tom. My condolences for the loss of your father. Your photos are no showing up. Buck is very capable of restoring their knives, but they can only do so much with pitting, if that's what you mean by "corrosion". I sent in my 112 Ranger and they were not able to remove a very small area of pitting completely. They didn't want to remove too much steel and risk losing the grind lines. I have found that Buck is very conscientious about going "too far" with restoration. They will do the best they can.
 
I tried using photobucket with the pictures. Like I said I'm new here and posting seems difficult. If anyone can recommend another way to post them, I'm all ears.

It's probably just surface rust, and I'm pretty sure it can come out. I've had rifle barrels with some minor rust, and I was always amazed that my gunsmith is able to keep the blue and ditch the rust. Just curious about what they are able to do. If I could get the image function to work right, you'd see what I'm talking about.

Thanks for the help.
 
Sounds like your 110 is a good candidate for the spa. Joe Houser will be very helpful. He's a super nice guy.
 
Using Photobucket:
When you have photo a you want to post, click the address (text areas) to the right of where it says "IMG" to the right of the page. When you click on it, it will turn yellow and say "copied". If it does not, you can highlight the entire address text, right click and "copy".
Come to your post, right click, paste....
I don't know if there are any conditions about having "X" number of posts before you can put photos on. Someone else would have to address that.



As far as the "Spa" goes. You would include a note with your knife stating it has sentimental value, exactly what you want done and what you don't want done. You can request that you be called when they're ready to work on it to clarify your notes.

Everything I've sent them has come back "good as new", but I've only asked for things to be completely cleaned up.
 
Yep, Buck can make that one look like new again for $6.95. As for the sheath, yea, sure the dog ate it. That excuse might have worked in elementary school, but not here, buddy. :p
 
Welcome Tom. As others have stated the Buck "spa treatment" should be able to make your 110 look very nice. FWIW your 110 is what's known as a "2 dot" as it has a dot before and after the model number. This dates it from 1974-1980 per the date code chart in the link below. I believe the blade is 440C steel, a favorite of myself and others.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/716179-Buck-Date-Codes

I know there are other members here that might be able to give you an even more refined date of manufacture than that based on other features.
 
Thanks Mr. Hammer...

I found those date codes and saw that the other day. This forum is a font of terribly useful information. I was surprised to see in the data sheets that it seems like it's 440C in stead of 420HC. I didn't know until this forum that regular 110s came in anything but 420HC. I too like 440C, and am pleasantly surprised.

I'm filling out a "knife repair form" right now. Thanks for the help.
 
Late 70s due to the three large brass handle pins. Here is a good photo of the brass pin evolution.


 
Just thought of something, as you can see from the pictures, there are some sharpening marks, and other scratches on the blade. I'm partial to the look of a highly polished shiny blade, and I'm curious if you all would talk me out doing that? Is it dumb to polish the bejeeezus out of the blade? Can the "spa" folks take out the tool/sharpening marks on the blade and leave the satin finish intact? Would they polish the crap out of it for me if I asked?
 
Yes, they can remove the sharpening marks if they're not too deep, but typically this isn't a problem. The satin finish will be replaced. Randy, at Buck, told me they still have the same equipment from the 70s, so the satin finish will look the same as the original. Just send it in for treatment and you will be VERY happy with the result.
 
No problem, Max. The photo and knives are not mine, but it's great for comparison. Sorry, I cannot give credit to the owner, but thank you!
 
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There is a place on the return form asking if the knife has sentimental value. Make sure you put your wishes there.

Dave
 
When you send it in, make certain to tell them it has sentimental value and not to replace anything. But, that knife is not in too bad of shape. Nice knife. You should be able to pass it down to your grandkids, one day.

PS: That dog probably ate your homework, too. ;)
 
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