Buck 110 versus CS Voyager?

Maybe this is worth a new thread, but for me the real slicer from Buck in the Voyager's price range is the 420HC Kalinga.

Mine came just incredibly sharp out of the box and just zips through everything I've cut with it.

And it hasn't needed a resharpening yet.


In fact, I think it's so good that I sold my S30V version!
 
That is the truth---the Kalinga is an excellent knife. I didn't feel the need for the S30V version---I had spent a lot of money on other knives that particular month---but the design was too appealing not to order. The 420HC that Buck uses is nice, so I have no complaints.

A great knife. :thumbup:
 
I've owned and used both 110's and Voyagers for years.
Ultimately, I think it depends upon how you use the knife....

If you need to cut minor things fairly often (boxes, string, tape, etc...) and you're constantly drawing, using, and then putting away your knife all the time...then the Voyager makes more sense.
After all, because of the pocket-clip and it's light weight and it's one-hand-opening, it's going to be easy to carry and access quickly, and then put away quickly too.

But if you don't use your knife all that often, but when you do it's for some heavy cutting, or long term cutting, then the 110 makes more sense.
The smooth comfortable 110 handle will not cause hot spots or blisters during long hard cutting choirs (as opposed to the textured FRN and pocket-clip of the Voyager).
 
Well, how about for hunting and you're using the blade to cut through joints and sinews? Would a Voyager with serrations be a better choice than a 110? I have a Buck 110 and a Buck Vanguard, and both are exceptionally strong knives. Even so, I'd have to give the serrated Voyager a good, hard look. Would blisters really be an issue with the FRN grips?
 
The only FRN-ish knife that ever gave me blisters was a 551 Griptillian from Benchmade. And the only reason it gave me blisters was because it felt so comfortable and locked into my hand so well that I was able to cut non-stop for over an hour. Conversely, I've chopped for less than 10 minutes with a resiprene-handled knife (also comfortable) and instantly got blisters.

For Voyagers with serrations, I've never used one hunting, but the serrated versions cut plastic longer than the plain-edged ones when using the factory edge.
 
Confederate said:
Well, how about for hunting and you're using the blade to cut through joints and sinews? Would a Voyager with serrations be a better choice than a 110? I have a Buck 110 and a Buck Vanguard, and both are exceptionally strong knives. Even so, I'd have to give the serrated Voyager a good, hard look. Would blisters really be an issue with the FRN grips?
Click to expand...

I have learned my lesson with Cold Steel serrations---I will never, ever use them on a hard medium again. I was using the knife to bone a whitetail deer during the cleaning process and the smaller sections of serrations (the longer, thinner, pointer serrations in between the wider grooves) chipped away, rolled, and did other bad things that I could complain about here. It was the only knife I had---I wasn't anticipating on shooting anything that day, as I only had time to be in the treestand for fifteen minutes. I was overly lucky, and then unlucky with my knife. :D The X2 Voyager with a serrated edge is a great rope-cutter, but a hard user it is not because of the fragile nature of its serrations.
 
I have two Buck 110s and a Medium Cold Steel Voyager with a Tanto point and VG-1 steel. I like 'em both and carry the CS more than the Buck, 'cause it is smaller and lighter. I even carry it with a suit.

The CS looks pretty cheap, and I'm a little put off by the company's meat-slashing videos, but the Voyager is a solid folder. It is as good as an FRN Spyderco, but I can't comment on the VG-1 steel. I haven't had it long enough.

If I had to pick one, it would be the Buck -- you get more than you paid for.

Advantage Buck:

  • Less expensive (depending on where you buy it)
  • Better slicer (one of the best ever)
  • Classic good looks (wood and brass)
  • Comes with sheath (leather or nylon)

Advantage CS:

  • Lighter/Smaller (you forget it's in your pocket)
  • Has pocket clip (the pocket clip is overly stiff and tight, though)
  • One-hand opening
 
steelscout30 said:
The Cold Steel is only lighter and smaller in pocket than the 110 if you stay away from the X2. :D
Click to expand...

Actually, I would think it would still be lighter than the 110 wouldn't if? FRN vs. those big brass bolsters. I don't have an X2, though, to say for sure.
 
The serrations on the Cold Steel work out fine for me, but they aren't for cutting wood, plastic or other hard items. They do work well on nylon rope, cardboard, meat and other materials. Plastic quickly dulls any blade and for nylon bands and thick, soft material, the serrations are great. In fact, as much as I despise half serrated, half plain knives, I have to say I like the CS combos, especially their Gunsite. Cold Steel used to make the Night Force and Pro-Lite models with serrations that weren't like tiny needles. They were short and stubby and quite strong. The blade steel was 440A.

For self defense and last ditch knives, it's really hard to beat the CS serrations. I can cut clean strips of paper using their serrated blades and that's pretty dern good. Using a cone diamond sharpener, sharpening the serrations is a breeze. (I can sharpen them while watching TV.) Someone gave me a used Vaquero 5-inch, the kind that came with a pouch and no belt clip, and I got that back to ripping sharp in no time, though you can tell by looking that some of the arcs that there's been some wear. Still, it had seen some hard use and was still going strong.

As far as comparing the Cold Steel and Buck plain edged models, I think the former is designed to take and hold more acute angles, whilst the latter takes more of a tough, working edge, the kind that might be used in hunting and heavier outdoor chores.
 
Confederate said:
Given they're two completely different knives, I was wondering if anyone has tried both the Buck 110 and Cold Steel Voyager in various cutting chores. Some people say the 420HC is a better steel; others like the AUS8 or VG-1.

Buck really does a good job on their heat treat, but so does CS generally.

Even so, which can be expected to be a better performer, or are they about the same?
Click to expand...


Confederate said:
The serrations on the Cold Steel work out fine for me, but they aren't for cutting wood, plastic or other hard items. They do work well on nylon rope, cardboard, meat and other materials. Plastic quickly dulls any blade and for nylon bands and thick, soft material, the serrations are great. In fact, as much as I despise half serrated, half plain knives, I have to say I like the CS combos, especially their Gunsite. Cold Steel used to make the Night Force and Pro-Lite models with serrations that weren't like tiny needles. They were short and stubby and quite strong. The blade steel was 440A.

For self defense and last ditch knives, it's really hard to beat the CS serrations. I can cut clean strips of paper using their serrated blades and that's pretty dern good. Using a cone diamond sharpener, sharpening the serrations is a breeze. (I can sharpen them while watching TV.) Someone gave me a used Vaquero 5-inch, the kind that came with a pouch and no belt clip, and I got that back to ripping sharp in no time, though you can tell by looking that some of the arcs that there's been some wear. Still, it had seen some hard use and was still going strong.

As far as comparing the Cold Steel and Buck plain edged models, I think the former is designed to take and hold more acute angles, whilst the latter takes more of a tough, working edge, the kind that might be used in hunting and heavier outdoor chores.
Click to expand...


It would have been more honest to give your opinion first and then invite others to comment rather than pretend to have no opinion, then come up with an all-encompassing answer.

Back on ignore you go.
 
I still don't know, that's why I'm asking for opinions. I have lots of experience with Cold Steel knives, but very little with Buck's 420HC. I have a chart that came with my Buck Alaskan that put 420HC at a substantially higher place than AUS8 or 440A. Just by looking at my Alaskan 110 and comparing the blade geometry to that of my Cold Steel, I believe the edge of the Buck to be a bit more substantial; still, in comparing AUS8 or VG-1 with 420HC, I haven't a clue.

As for putting me on "Ignore," please do so if you wish, but if you do, please leave me on Ignore or go plague someone else on another board. Or, better, you could try whittling that chip on your shoulder.
 
I do notice a definite trend of grudges overshadowing judgment. I think it's inappropriate for forum members to follow and berate other members because they didn't like the particular opinion they see them expressing.

It's detrimental to threads like this, where someone wants honest feedback about a knife they're going to purchase, to have dissenting opinions squelched like that. But then, I don't have any authority, and that's just my feeling on the subject.



Back on topic, IMO, AUS 8 holds a nice edge for a reasonable amount of time. I have AG Russel's Woodswalker, and I've been consistently surprised by the fineness of the edge it takes. But as mentioned earlier, the real deciding factor seems to be whether or not you want a heavier, sheath-mounted knife with classic looks and a lot of nice heft to it, or a lighter Zytel-handled knife with a pocket clip.
 
That's probably why to get an honest evaluation, you'd have to take two identical knives with identical grinds and then test them side by side. I've always heard that AUS8 was a better overall steel than 420HC, but having never used the latter, I don't know. I suppose if one compared a 110 S30V blade with a 110 420HC, that they'd see a substantial difference. Still, I'd like to see it in empirical tests to see just how much better the former would be from the latter.
 
I wish the CS would make the handles form anodized aluminum,preferably t-6,love the blade but the plastic handle is a turn off for me.
I have both. and like the CS with the 4" clip blade.
 
I dunno...aluminum can get cold in the winter. One knife I really like is the CRKT M21-04. It has a fairly decent blade and has a nice feel to it. The Zytel handles are plenty strong, though, and light. I used to carry a CS Recon One, but it was just too heavy. My feeling is, if a gorilla can't break it, it's probably strong enough!
 
The Buck 110 is available also as Cabela's Alaskan Guide folder, with an S30V blade. I have found that to be really superior to other folders I've used.

By the way: The blade is blackened and comes with a garish logo painted on it. The logo can be removed with acetone or MEK solvent.
 
I wish I would've mentioned the S30V stainless version of Buck's 110. That would've pretty much ended the argument about steel choice.

For about the same price, you could have an American made Buck 110 with a Bos-treated S30V, or a foreign-made Cold Steel Voyager with VG-1.

I'd take a knife with S30V made by American workers any day. The FRN handles of the Voyager series are a big turn-off for me as well. Perhaps someday Lynn Thompson will make a version of the knife for a more upscale market, like the Shinobu and Clip Mate series of yore.
 
If he makes it more upscale it'll cost four times its present price or more. High end Cold Steel is rarely worth the money. Still nice though. :D
 
VG-1 in my opinion is about as improved as I want to get on these knives. they are light weight, super durable, and sharper than hell out of the box. In that price range they are hard (if at all) to beat. One thing i've leaned from most people on BF; Zytel & AUS 8 is ok on other knives but when it comes to CS it's suddenly cheap and inferior. And being made in Japan aint a bad thing, I think the country knows how to make an edged tool/weapon by now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top