Buck 110 with G10 and S30V

[FoxholeAtheist]

I follow a certain company on their FB page and thought this was interesting when it came through the feed... They've teamed up with Buck to produce a 110 with G10 scales and S30V blade. I'll admit to not being a traditional knife carrier (I carry a small Bark River or Koster fixed blade most of the time), but this looks pretty interesting.

(link to non paying dealer removed)

 

[SAK Guy]

Cool looking 110! Thanks!

 

[pinnah]

Seems like a good marketing marriage.

 

[jacksterp]

That's quite the 110.

Thanks for the heads up!

 

[akadave2]

Buck enters the 21st century!!!! 'Bout time!

 

[j4ckwr4th]

I'm gonna be honest, when I read the title I honestly thought you were joking. This is like a dream come true. Thank you.

 

[Peregrin]

If you're looking for info on the Original Post please contact the OP outside the forum. Any references to the non paying dealer will get this thread moved offline.

 

[pinnah]

So... the Buck 110 is arguably among the most iconic American knives, and rightfully so. IMO, it's an important knife historically. And for this reason, I'm not shocked to see it picked up by a neo-retro design artiste.

Not sure I see the major departure here for Buck. They do S30V bladed custom 110s from their web site and they've done synthetic scaled versions in the past.

The place I would like to see Buck move is to put more drop points and flat grinds in their classic 110 and 112 frames, including the lighter Ecolite frames. For me, *THAT* would be interesting. All I'm seeing here is G10 and that's just generating a <shrug> from me.

This said, I'll bet that Buck will not only sell a bunch of these 110s, but I suspect that this collaboration will open up the as of yet untapped hipster knife market. The perfect companion for PBR and trucker hats?

 

[AreBeeBee]

....The place I would like to see Buck move is to put more drop points and flat grinds in their classic 110 and 112 frames, including the lighter Ecolite frames. For me, *THAT* would be interesting. All I'm seeing here is G10 and that's just generating a <shrug> from me....

Strong agreement here.

What's annoying? curious? bemusing? is that if Buck were to design the 110 all over again, but starting this year, they'd very likely give it a drop-point blade. The 110 was designed to echo the standard fixed-blade hunting knives of the 1950s and earlier. Nearly all these had clip points &#8212; and so did the Buck 110. No surprise there.

But it's now 50+ years on since the 110 was born. Surely it's not too soon to introduce an extension and updating of the design?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Strong agreement here.

What's annoying? curious? bemusing? is that if Buck were to design the 110 all over again, but starting this year, they'd very likely give it a drop-point blade. The 110 was designed to echo the standard fixed-blade hunting knives of the 1950s and earlier. Nearly all these had clip points &#8212; and so did the Buck 110. No surprise there.

But it's now 50+ years on since the 110 was born. Surely it's not too soon to introduce an extension and updating of the design?

Buck has occasionally done some limited-release knives (110/112) with drop-point blades, from their 'Custom Shoppe'. Others have been done with high-end steels (S30V, D2, BG-42, etc.) and other special handle materials. I have one with polished black G10 handles, nickel-silver bolsters and a BG-42 blade (clip). I think the Buck traditionalists might object if Buck were to wholesale replace the clip blade across the line (ask in the Buck sub-forum; there are some die-hard traditionalists there). But having the drop-point as an option, it wouldn't be bad.


David

 

[akadave2]

Its still hard for me to get past the 420HC steel they use. I dont think old 70's 110 uses 420 and I cant force myself to use it now.

 

[Double Ott]

Being 60+ in years, I have a natural love of a clip point knife. I grew up with them and have a 110 & 112. Along with the many other 110 wantabes that have copied the 110 lockback design. Love them all. BUT.... I would love to see Buck come out with G-10 handles and a drop point blade for the 110 & 112.

Tom

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Its still hard for me to get past the 420HC steel they use. I dont think old 70's 110 uses 420 and I cant force myself to use it now.

As 420HC goes, Buck is likely doing it better than anyone else. They've definitely figured out how to get the most out of it. It's certainly not best-of-the-best, but it takes a scary-sharp edge easily, and is easy to maintain with simple means. Very user-friendly, and manufacturer-friendly as well (easy on their tooling). It'd be nice to see them upgrade somewhat; a Sandvik stainless would be great (compare to Opinel's stainless), and not too costly.

The '70s-vintage Bucks used 440C, BTW. Also very good or even excellent, though it's easier to get along with now, versus back then. It was difficult to sharpen on Arkansas stones, but more modern sharpening tools handle it well.


David

 

[jobasha11]

That is.. well I think thats the most beautiful thing ive ever seen.

 

[akadave2]

As 420HC goes, Buck is likely doing it better than anyone else. They've definitely figured out how to get the most out of it. It's certainly not best-of-the-best, but it takes a scary-sharp edge easily, and is easy to maintain with simple means. Very user-friendly, and manufacturer-friendly as well (easy on their tooling). It'd be nice to see them upgrade somewhat; a Sandvik stainless would be great (compare to Opinel's stainless), and not too costly.

The '70s-vintage Bucks used 440C, BTW. Also very good or even excellent, though it's easier to get along with now, versus back then. It was difficult to sharpen on Arkansas stones, but more modern sharpening tools handle it well.


David

I agree, back in the 70's I couldnt sharpen my 110 for the life of me, well sharp enough for my tastes. That 440C seemed to be hard as the hinges of Hades!

Im sure with Bos heat treating they are getting the best out of the knife, but the steel is more suited for a hard use/abuse knife than a slicer class which I consider the 110 to be in. If all I could afford was "good enough" then fine, but Im willing to pay for more performance. Too bad its not in the 110 package

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I agree, back in the 70's I couldnt sharpen my 110 for the life of me, well sharp enough for my tastes. That 440C seemed to be hard as the hinges of Hades!

Im sure with Bos heat treating they are getting the best out of the knife, but the steel is more suited for a hard use/abuse knife than a slicer class which I consider the 110 to be in. If all I could afford was "good enough" then fine, but Im willing to pay for more performance. Too bad its not in the 110 package

If I understand what you mean by 'slicer' (if I'm misinterpreting, let me know), that's where the blade grind makes a big difference, as opposed to just the steel. Two of my favorite fine slicers are a Case Sod Buster (stainless; 420HC) and an aesthetically very similar Buck 424 'BuckLite' folder, also in 420HC. These both have very thin hollow grinds similar to the hollow sabre-grind on the 110, at least in the lower half of the blade. I also have a Buck 111 (just like the 110, but with curved/radiused bolsters in nickel) that is also a great slicer. I've thinned the edge grind on it, and it's got the best piercing point on the clip blade as any I've seen.

The older, '70s-vintage 440C blades from Buck were much thicker behind the edge (and factory edges were much more obtuse). In tandem with the higher carbide content of the steel, 440C should've been more robust in hard use. That's not to say it can't slice well; but thinning the edge grind would've helped that tremendously (and convexing adds even more). I never realized how good Buck's 440C actually was, until I thinned & convexed my old 2-dot 112.


David

 

[akadave2]

If I understand what you mean by 'slicer' (if I'm misinterpreting, let me know), that's where the blade grind makes a big difference, as opposed to just the steel. Two of my favorite fine slicers are a Case Sod Buster (stainless; 420HC) and an aesthetically very similar Buck 424 'BuckLite' folder, also in 420HC. These both have very thin hollow grinds similar to the hollow sabre-grind on the 110, at least in the lower half of the blade. I also have a Buck 111 (just like the 110, but with curved/radiused bolsters in nickel) that is also a great slicer. I've thinned the edge grind on it, and it's got the best piercing point on the clip blade as any I've seen.

The older, '70s-vintage 440C blades from Buck were much thicker behind the edge (and factory edges were much more obtuse). In tandem with the higher carbide content of the steel, 440C should've been more robust in hard use. That's not to say it can't slice well; but thinning the edge grind would've helped that tremendously (and convexing adds even more). I never realized how good Buck's 440C actually was, until I thinned & convexed my old 2-dot 112.


David

What I mean by "Slicer" is a knife that is of a design and size that would not make it a very good pointed prybar. Not just the grind but the shape and thickness of the blade, handle construction etc. For instance, my Strider SnG, hasa very thick blade and grind. It also has a very thick pivot pin and uses very sturdy material. Its also end user serviceable if there are issues with bearing material, loosness due to "abuse" etc. a person can eaily tighten things up. I would and could dig a hole in the dirt with my SnG and it would do ok. Cant really do that with a 110. Its basically and oversized traditional style pocket knife in construction. It will not hold up to the kind of abuse my SnG will take. Conversely I would expect to have a much more keen edge on a knife like the 110. Not to say the SnG wouldnt get keen but I wouldnt make the edge as thin on that knife as I would on a 110. I want to do detail work with the 110. Least effort type of cutting etc. The steel is most important for the ability to keep a keen edge. Any steel can get sharp. At a Hammer In, I saw a dead soft anhealed knife shaped blank, sharpened to a hair splitting edge, pass the free hanging rope cutting test. We are talking about 2" sissal rope...sharp sharp sharp! I have also seen a kydex knife sharpened enough to shave hair. So...at the end of the day I want a steel that will take a keen and and KEEP IT for as long as possible, if its a slicer.

I consider all traditional pocket knives slicers. Also, I dont think Case used 420HC, I think its 420J on the Soddies....correct me if Im wrong.

 

[PWork]

Also, I dont think Case used 420HC, I think its 420J on the Soddies....correct me if Im wrong.

You would be wrong. Case uses 420HC.

 

[akadave2]

You would be wrong. Case uses 420HC.

Good to know, I didnt know they used the same exact steel as Buck.

 

[pinnah]

Being 60+ in years, I have a natural love of a clip point knife. I grew up with them and have a 110 & 112. Along with the many other 110 wantabes that have copied the 110 lockback design. Love them all. BUT.... I would love to see Buck come out with G-10 handles and a drop point blade for the 110 & 112.

Drop point and FLAT GRIND. The (hard to find) Schrade LB7DP is the template. My Schrade 51OT has totally convinced me of my preference for the flat grind in pretty much every situation.

Not my knives but wish they were. Or that Buck would produce something like them.

If I understand what you mean by 'slicer' (if I'm misinterpreting, let me know), that's where the blade grind makes a big difference, as opposed to just the steel. Two of my favorite fine slicers are a Case Sod Buster (stainless; 420HC) and an aesthetically very similar Buck 424 'BuckLite' folder, also in 420HC. These both have very thin hollow grinds similar to the hollow sabre-grind on the 110, at least in the lower half of the blade. I also have a Buck 111 (just like the 110, but with curved/radiused bolsters in nickel) that is also a great slicer. I've thinned the edge grind on it, and it's got the best piercing point on the clip blade as any I've seen.

Has Buck changed the grind on the 110? All of the Bucks I've owned have had the same basic grind (not counting the thickness near the edge) with pretty pronounced shoulders. I've thinned a few pretty dramatically, including a 112 with a 442 blade and found them better "slicers" through things like apples and potatoes after they were thinned but still nothing compared to a proper flat grind. I know you find flat grinds prone to suction problems though.

One place I find hollow grinds better is with flesh. Better for meat, imo.

FWIW, I think fine blanking + lack of finishing => the vertical play issues that Buck has been having.

[/QUOTE]

Good to know, I didnt know they used the same exact steel as Buck.

Same base steel but very different heat treatment. I find Bucks 420HC and Case's TruSharp to be very different feeling. Buck's 420HC holds and edge longer and doesn't burr up as bad when honing. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Buck on account of the 420HC.