Buck 112 increase in # of brass pins?

Here's the entire post from Bill that I had in my notes:

Back when I started in ought eight, not really it was 1974, we glued all of the 110 and 112 inlays on to the brass sides. They were being glued on long before I started also. The brass being used at the time was provided by Revere Forging. We would glue the inlays on (they were rectangular blocks) then sand, shape, drill and finaly rivet the wood to the brass.

In early 1975 we began a conversation to the sintered brass, from Pacific Sintered Metals, which is what we still use today. for the first few months of using the new sintered brass, we glued the wood to the brass, but by mid year had transitioned to only riveting the wood to the brass.

I am very familiar with this as I was the first operator on teh "inlay" riveter for the 110's to only rivet the wood on. I also still have the scar on the bottom of my left index finger where the removed a rivet from my finger after i drove it into my finger from the top (we didn't need no stinkin guards back then:-)).

At that time, we were still using only 2 inlay rivets, one at the front and one at the back, plus the rocker rivet/pin.
The glue that we used was a 3M two part epoxy structural adhesive- tough stuff. We still use it on the fixed blade knives (119's, 102's, ect). Great adhesive and great gap filler which was one of the main reasons we used it on the 110/112. We dyed the glue for the 110/112 black to make it less obvious, otherwise the glue is a light gray color.

To clean everything we used trichlorethane (spelling?) which was a great solvent; also kills plants, animals, brain cells and pretty much anything else that it comes in contact with or that breathes it- but it was a great solvent. It would not disolve cured glue though. the best release agent was heat; get the handle very hot and the glue would release (at least sometimes).

The solvent has of course been outlawed for many years.
We actually used the same solvent with wax in it to do the final cleaning on the 110/112 back then.
Hope this sheds a little light on the glue and gives you a bit of useless info the is entertainng.

Bill Keys
Director of Manufacturing and Engineering
Buck Knives Inc.:
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This is interesting. So, the 2 dot 110's are from 1975. Plus, I noticed that the two Buck employees don't mention water damage (only George) they just mention about the slabs becoming loose. Which could have been from accidental dropping or abuse. Using 1/8" pins must have been the cure as adhesive was dropped. DM
 
Well, not just '75, Dave.....more like '74 to '80.

And it's clear the glue was the major problem--inconvenient to work with plus the solvent for clean up was a serious health hazard to the employees, so they had to find a way to do it without the glue......thus the increased number and then the increased size of the pins.....which, it appears, was finally the key to success.

Water damage was probably a real, but a rare and far less memorable problem.
 
The way I'm reading Bill's last sentence in post 20, leads me to think the 2 dots began in 75.? DM
 
Then I'd tend to think yes, it was the glue they didn't like working with and extra pins will fix the slabs from coming loose. Other than the holes being present, to go in that direction, the rest is just fall out. DM
 
His last sentence in post 20?

At that time, we were still using only 2 inlay rivets, one at the front and one at the back, plus the rocker rivet/pin. ."
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(?)
 
The quote from Bill Keys begans; In 1975 we began... His last sentence, I have examined many 2 dots and this one had adhesive which led me to believe it was a early 2 dot.
I have as well looked at many 2 dots and not found adhesive. I have in the 3 liners but not 2 dots and I think most all of those I examined were the 3 large pin models. An off topic point. DM
 
The sentence you're talking about was written by Bertl. Check the quotation marks.

I still don't see how you would come to the conclusion you did, though.

It appears that the last of the glued standard 110s and 112s were the early Two-Dotters.

Anyway, it also appears the question has been answered.
 
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David Martin said:
TAH, you should comment as we've tried to cover all the important points in answering your question.
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BG42EDGE said:
Anyway, it also appears the question has been answered.
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Dave & everyone,

Sorry for the delay in joining my own thread. My 112 and I were out on horseback all weekend. I have no additional comments. As BG42EDGE said, my original question has been thoroughly answered. Thank you all for your thoughts and the "riveting" (no pun intended :D) discussion.

I've posted this photo before, but here's the culprit that provoked my question.

IMG_0670-1.jpg
 
You know I don't think that sheath is the original sheath for that knife. Whoops, I'm not saying anything else about your stuff. Your welcome. DM ;)
 
David Martin said:
You know I don't think that sheath is the original sheath for that knife. Whoops, I'm not saying anything else about your stuff. Your welcome. DM ;)
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Good eye, Detective. The original sheath is enjoying semi-retirement and in good health. I purchased the brown sheath because it matched my tack. I removed the Buck snap and replaced it with an engraved sterling snap.

BTW, you can say anything about my stuff as long as it's positive and you don't hurt my feelings. :D
 
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Tell me, did the original sheath have a scalloped top with two rivets and a wider leather belt loop ? I'm thinking the one you use has a straight top with two rivets. DM
 
Yes, it has a scalloped top with two rivets and a wider belt loop. The top of the belt loop ends at the top of the sheath. I would snap a photo, but our digital camera is down right now. Here's one from eBay that looks just like it.

$(KGrHqQOKj!E3uE2d,ljBN+O7d,TV!~~_12.JPG


What year did the tops go from scalloped to straight?
 
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