Buck 119/120 tang rivet pic???

chickentrax

chickentrax

Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Messages
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I'm taking apart a Cabelas 120 to do a regrip...Does anyone have a side view pic of the pommel with a visible rivet??? Something showing the rivet itself, at a 90* angle, so I can blow it up and make a drilling fixture to drill/drift out the tang rivet...could be brass or aluminum; either should work...post it [a linked thumbnail, please!] or email to me, I would appreciate it...

Thankyouverymuch!... :)
 
I dont have a picture but I'll tell you how we do it. Hit the rivet with a center punch and then drill down through the rivet to about half way through the pommel. Sometimes you hit the side of the tang hole and the noise it makes tells you that you are half way through.
Use a drill bit that is undersized so you dont bugger up the pommel rivet hole. Then we use a punch and a big hammer. It should drive right out. If it doesn't, I drill a little more and try again. It is rare that this doesnt work.
Just make sure that the drill is perpendicular to the pommel. You might have to prop it up or use some clay to hold it in place.
Good luck and remember those safety goggles or you will look like this guy.......;)
 
Thank you, Joe! I will do it just that way... :)

...as soon as I find the rivet... :D

The polishing job is very good. I know that rivet is someplace in the upper part of the pommel, but even with a magnifying glass I can't find it...that's why I'm hoping someone has one that has been hidden for a while and the tarnish shows where the rivet is... ;)
 
Trax, I've heard tell that if you breath on a cool pommel that the rivet/pin will appear, briefly. Hope this helps. Preston
 
pjsjr said:
Trax, I've heard tell that if you breath on a cool pommel that the rivet/pin will appear, briefly.
Click to expand...

Yes, I heard that too. Also, Joe wrote some months back that if you rubbed it briskly on your jeans before blowing on it, it would show up better...

...Well, it works... :D :thumbup:

The rivet is about half an inch from where I was planning on drilling... :eek:

OK! Thank you both for the help!!! ;)
 
Scott Hartman said:
Keep us updated as to how easy it is to remove that phenolic handle
Click to expand...

It's not cast in place, is it??? :confused: :eek: No, it can't be...the spacers wouldn't be spaced right...

I won't know what kind of handle until I see the tang...I was hoping to thread the tang and screw a new longer SS pommel (kind of "T" shaped) on it...maybe stacked leather washers...or black & white alternating Micarta disks...or stag...

Still looking for ideas... :) Got any???

Definately want the grip 1/2" longer...
 
Yah, what Jim said. :rolleyes:
The best way to remove the phenolic handle is to wrap it in a rag and crush it in a vise. A big hammer will also do the trick. Sometimes, on the older phenolic handled knives from he 1960's, the glue has broken down to the point to where you can actually save the handle.

That tang is hard so you might have a time trying to thread it. I have had luck welding a bolt to the end of the tang, something I learned from Hoyt Buck. (No, not in person, I'm not THAT old!)

I hope this helps.
 
chickentrax said:
I won't know what kind of handle until I see the tang...I was hoping to thread the tang and screw a new longer SS pommel (kind of "T" shaped) on it...maybe stacked leather washers...or black & white alternating Micarta disks...or stag...

Still looking for ideas... :) Got any???
Click to expand...

Why Elkadon, of course, I'm surprised that no one else has mentioned it.:eek: :D :eek:

Seriously, maybe carbon fiber with spacers of aluminum and leather...something old and something new:cool:. Looking forward to seeing it. Preston
 
I also vote for Elkadon. That would look great. If you cant get Elkadon how about Land Shark skin, durable and very dressy.
 
"Vote for Pedro"
Click to expand...

Luck-eeey:p

I vote for stacked leather,brass,& spacer material with an antler crown, Scagel style, might even get to use the existing hole in the flat-tang to pin the crown.
 
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