Buck Folder Knife Lube

westgin

westgin

Joined
Sep 26, 2009
Messages
85
OK guys, what do you use to lube you Buck folders? I’ve tried several and nothing seems to last very long. Usually only a couple of days. So what do you recommend????
 
What have you used and when you say it only last a couple of days what do you mean? Most all lubes will appear dried up within at most a couple days but the effects should last longer.
 
I use Hoppes gun oil and it works very well. If you are having short runs, the pivot may be gummed up. If that is the case, I usually will hit it with very hot water and dish soap. If that still doesn't work, I hit it with Hoppes solvent, then clean with hot soap and water again and apply the oil.
 
Corrosion X for pivots and blade unless I use the knife for cutting food in which case I use mineral oil. Also good ole 3in1 oil from time to time.
 
3 in 1 is what I have the most of, so I use that.

I recently got some powdered graphite lock lube, but have not tried it on a knife yet.
 
Williamsville Butcherblock Oil (mineral oil). Meant to protect wood that comes in contact with food and water, it works well on steel too.

Stubborn knives get Remington Rem oil in joints until they are broken in.
 
It depends. If I am going to use a knife for any food (cutting apples, cutting my sandwich, bacon, etc.) I use Vaseline and it works very well. It is simply mineral oil and paraffin. The paraffin keeps it around longer. It is also all that I use on carbon steels, like 5160, 1095, K390, etc. as an invisible light coat really protects the blade.
 
Really hot water and Dawn gets most of the junk out. Q tips for the nooks and crannies but a old toothbrush can have a bristle break off . I actually seldom oil the blade pivot on most of my users except for the first cleaning on a new one. I've had a few full of buffing compound ..
 
You know this lube question has been around a long time and had a bunch of threads discussing it. It seems like mineral oil is used by many folks who use their EDC knife for food activities. Others use some type of gun oil, some use some type of super duper lubricant and some use just some type of plain oil. Some use none, just keep it clean. I say make yourself happy, they all work as long as you don't attract grit and grime into the moving parts.

Here's some of my special oil and the story. My father had just started watch repair school in Kansas City when WW2 started and he ended up a flight mechanic in the Navy. When I was a child he had a small tool chest around and in it were all manners of interesting watch repair tools for a kid to get in trouble handling roughly. I have it now and in it was this bottle of oil. Moebius Large Clock Oil. Switzerland.
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The company is still in business but of course the containers are different. I am guessing it is from the 1940's, maybe. The plastic lid may not be of that 40's era. I swear it smells 'fishy' I guess I am trying to make it into whale oil. They were still taking them back then so who knows. He also repaired fishing reels when I was a kid and it could be from that era, I also remember a needle oiler. As you see I have half a bottle left, looks to be a little over an ounce. I only use it on my fancy 300s that are safe queens. 300Bucks
 
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Boker's Knife Oil. Comes in a little pen-type oiler with a needle nose applicator. Can get it at Bladeforums supporter BladeHQ for $7. I used to use Buck Honing oil, but it is no longer sold. The Boker oil is a little lighter.
 
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