Buck Honemaster - Sharpening Guide?

pahl

pahl

Joined
Feb 23, 2002
Messages
1,088
Does anyone use a Buck Honemaster?

Not my auction or I'm I the winner. Posted the link so you could see what I'm talking about.

Thanks,
 
I bought one of these in the 70's and never could get the damn thing to work for me. Sold it on ebay, a couple of years ago and got a surprising price, as I recall, but don't think it was 47 bucks (course the little plastic hinge was busted on the box). I think it's more of a collectible item, than something that actually works. Maybe I just didn't know what I was doin'. Always a possibility considering my mechanical aptitude. ;-)
 
I have one I bought years ago for around $7, if I recall. It is a very useful angle guide and I use it mainly for setting the appropriate bevel on very dull blades. They have long been discontinued by Buck, but I believe that a very similar clamp is available from Razor Edge.
 
I have a couple I picked up from eBay over the past couple years, along with the instruction sheets. I paid $7 for one and around $12 for the other. Never do use them as I have a Smith's Precison Kit to keep the blades sharp. Do you have a question on how to use one, or just wondering if anyone does?
 
I was reading Steve's Knife Sharpening Site and he said if you find one buy it.

I use the razor edge guides and was doing some research on the Buck Honemaster after reading about them on Steve's web site.

The Buck clamp looks like it would be easier to clamp to the blade then the razor edge clamp.

Gypsy9590,
Would you be interested in selling one of your Buck clamps?
I could not aford to spend as much for one as they have been selling for on ebay.

Please email if you would be interested in selling one to me.

Thanks,
 
Seems like a pretty old thread, but I'll reply in case anyone in the future asks about the Honemaster. I bought my first one in 1974 with the $5.00 my father gave me for my 16th birthday. Today I received my second that I won this week on ebay for $60 and was happy to pay it. I've just about worn out the first Honemaster; the parts of the clamp that contacts the hone has so much wear that it has been razor sharp for years. I've been sharpening knives since I was 11 y.o. and in that time I've not come upon a better sharpening aid. I've examined several over the years and do not care for systems such as the Lansky and Smith's Precision; I'm sure they are both very good systens, but not for me. You can't use the Lansky or Smith's with the 11.5x2.5 inch Smith's diamond hone I recently bought. In fact, I think both will only use their proprietary tiny hones. Besides, what a royal pain it appers to be to use the Lansky/Smith's systems. With the Honemaster you simply clamp it to the blade and sharpen as you would freehand. Also, there are rubber blade protectors lining the Honemaster so it won't mar the blades like the other systems. I have a dedicated bench grinder with a sharpening wheel, but only use that on my kitchen knives. I won't use it for sharpening any of my carry or hunting knives.
I have sharpened blades that were shorter than the Honemaster is long and those that were so long I had to take a second bite with the tool to get the whole blade sharpened. The advantage of the Honemaster over freehand is that every stroke you take on the stone is at exactly the same angle which not only speeds sharpening, but leaves a beautiful factory-appearing edge and the edge is on the same plane. Conversely, every stroke taken freehand will be on a slightly different angle and while I have no evidence to support it, I'll wager won't hold as good an edge as a blade sharpened with the Honemaster. Can someone sharpening a blade freehand get it as sharp as using a Honemaster? Maybe, but I'll never know because I use the Honemaster. I was willing to pay $75 for the Honemaster on ebay and while I'm glad I didn't have to I would not have been troubled by doing so. I would not take $150 for my new Honemaster and maybe not for my old one.
If I think of a downside to the Honemaster it would be that its use will cause premature hone wear simply because the Honemaster contacts the hone on every stroke. Logic dictates that the stones will wear out in half the time compared to hones used freehand. That said, I have three (course, medium, extra-fine) 2x6 inch diamond hones that I've used for more than 20 years and they are still going strong.
I would reccomend the Buck Honemaster to anyone who is serious about getting a knife to the absolute sharpest it can be.
 
When I use a Honemaster or a Razor's Edge Clamp, I trace the fingers of the clamp on to the blade with a diamond glass cutter. That way I always locate the jig in the same place on the blade.
 
Is this the thing?

IMG-20130302-00133_zps3160a7b8.jpg


I have one, but I can never get the darn thing to work. Thin blades like the Opinel tend to wiggle in the rubber pads. I'm guessing it's meant for bigger knives(?)
 
Tiguy & 270, They are valuable and easy to use. Simple fix is to get a thicker piece of leather and fold it into the device to sharpen. DM
 
You've got it. I don't have an Opinel, but I've used mine on relatively thin bladed Case and Boker Trapper knives. Try turning the clamping wheel as tight as you can. Even if the blade wiggles somewhat, if the knife is secure enough that it stays in place on the Honemaster, you should get the desired effect. I've also successfully used it on knives that have shorter blades than the Honemaster is long.
Good idea about using the leather, DM.
 
The Razor's Edge Clamp has 2 fingers per side, comes in 2 sizes, and has metal to metal contact. This is the clamp that I trace the clamp placement on to the blade. The Honemaster has no fingers, just one long clamping edge. One of the tricks to using these devices is always clamping in the same spot. I usually make two marks on one side of the blade so that I can do a compound edge. The other trick is squeegeeing the oil off the stones. Otherwise the clamp gets full of oil and swarf.
 
I haven't found that to be necessary, but it is a strategy that I could easily see myself employing. A slight difference in placement has not been an issue for me even when sharpening a long knife that takes two bites of the Honemaster. I always put a burr on both sides of the blade when sharpening so I'm completely resurfacing the entire edge so a slight change in placement is inconsequential. But hey, whatever works for you gets the knife sharp, and that's the bottom line.
 
I think the best thing about these guides is; 1) it keeps the blade at a consistent angle, an item free hand sharpening struggles to do. 2) it allows for the use of a large stone 2.5"X 11.5" thus quicker sharpening. Which devices like the Sharpmaker and others don't. Thanks, DM
 
Talking theory now: a consistent placement should produce a burr more quickly (less strokes). I use about five different grit stones and only move the jig forward (about 1/8") on the finest one (hard black Arkansas). Jig placement is referenced to the tip as well as the edge of the blade. +1 on the large stones. I mark my blades on the same side as the recesses of the 4 headless jig adjustment set screws are showing.
 
This is like resurrecting from the dead but here's something... I got hold of a Honemaster in the mid-70's after considerable trouble getting a good consistent edge on my Buck General 120. Worked like a charm on the hard Arkansas stones I often (still) use, and on the 12"-bench top I have for big jobs.... Works well for larger knives of stainless and various carbon steels and am surprised that Buck quit marketing them.
Nowadays I suppose that many are using the :eek:power belt sharpeners with jigs to set and hone their edges.. Old School :p Dun
 
Judging by the hair whittling results recently demonstrated by a fellow member utilizing one, I'd say it's pretty clear they work.

It does seem a shame that Buck stopped producing them. I recently picked one up off the auction site just to have one. Haven't used it yet...but will one of these days when the mood strikes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top