Buck Knives - Made in the USA??

I have a surgical steel Case "Copperlock" from a few years ago and it sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and so forth.
 
Gerber has used both 440A and 420HC, though they've not often been forthcoming with info on which knife has which alloy. And their heat treat is apparently variable.
I have two EZ-outs. One from the late 90's. The other 2003ish.
The one from the 90's measured 59HRC. The other 55HRC. The difference in edge retention is noticeable.

I do not know what Case Tru-Sharp is, nor am I certain of the hardness Case uses. It is said that Case anneals all their blades after heat treat at the base. The base is the only flat place to measure hardness on their blades, so I can't get a valid measurement on them. I do know that Case Tru-Sharp does not hold an edge as well as Buck 420HC.
 
Gerber has used both 440A and 420HC, though they've not often been forthcoming with info on which knife has which alloy. And their heat treat is apparently variable.
I have two EZ-outs. One from the late 90's. The other 2003ish.
The one from the 90's measured 59HRC. The other 55HRC. The difference in edge retention is noticeable.

I do not know what Case Tru-Sharp is, nor am I certain of the hardness Case uses. It is said that Case anneals all their blades after heat treat at the base. The base is the only flat place to measure hardness on their blades, so I can't get a valid measurement on them. I do know that Case Tru-Sharp does not hold an edge as well as Buck 420HC.

Case's Tru-Sharp seems to do very well in fine slicing uses. This is where I like it the best. A couple of years ago, I put some very acute bevels on several Case stockman knives I have (a couple of '75 pattern large stockmans, and the Tony Bose Sowbelly seen in my avatar pic), using a guided sharpener (Lansky). Polished the edges fairly well, through the Lansky white ceramic hone (I think it's about 1000 grit). I only have a small handful of true 'hair-whittling' blades, and two of those are the Case's I sharpened this way. Best steak knives I've ever used. I've since only had to strop them occasionally to maintain those edges. They've never touched a hard stone since I rebevelled them. It's intriguing to me, to hear that they test the RC at the base (tang?) of the blade. I've always felt, based on my experience, the acute edges I put on mine have held up far better than the published RC numbers might imply.

And regarding annealing at the base. Another thread here in the Buck forum had recently pointed out how it's sometimes difficult or undesirable to stamp blades, due to cracking issues in the steel. Makes me wonder if Case anneals the tangs on their blades for the sake of the tang stamps. Case's unique tang stamps are a big part of their desirability to collectors, so it wouldn't surprise me.
 
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I have a surgical steel Case "Copperlock" from a few years ago and it sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and sharpens up real quick and gets dull real quick and so forth.

So, what are you really saying, does it get sharp or dull faster...
 
I am learning alot about buck knives and I love them I i enjoy reading and studying the pictures and post!!!!! but if i would email pictures of some of my buck knives could u tell me about them?
mbjannusch
 
I am learning alot about buck knives and I love them I i enjoy reading and studying the pictures and post!!!!! but if i would email pictures of some of my buck knives could u tell me about them?
mbjannusch

Turbo21,
I would love to tell you about the knives you have , send me an email with some pictures( this would be most helpful). If you are unable to send pictures a detailed description would help. Send any questions, concerns, comments and pictures to old300s@gmail.com, you could go through the forum but I prefer direct email.

Matt
 
I just registered a few minutes ago, and hope that someone here can tell me the value of the BUCK 110 KNIFE that says MADE IN THE USA and has this: .110.. also on the blade at the base.
FOTOS:
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Thanks for any help,
zehshlo
 
I should let you know that as a "registered user" (not a paid member), you aren't allowed to ask about values. That's a rule enforced by the forum management and moderators.

Sorry. It's a cool knife by the way and more than likely an aftermarket custom.
 
This old Thread needs some images of the Buck 301.
As a Schrade collector, most of my Buck 301 knives were made by Schrade from 1966; and later Camillus.

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HI back from Hot Summer USA.......

Yes, there are reasons for bringing back old threads to give folks background info and there are good reasons to start a new ones. Kold is a long time Buck forum user and Schrade contract 301 collector from down under. He does have qualifications to post good info on the Schrade made models.

Gold you could lock this one and start one just on "Show us your Schrade Made Early Buck 301s and 303s." Or let it ride. Your call friend. 300Bucks
 
Hi Old Mate 300 Bucks, I like to bring back old threads from time to time.
Over the years I have posted new Threads on the early Schrade Made Early Buck's.
Some Schrade Collectors like them, most are not interested in them - That is why I post on Old Threads.
I spend 99% of my time looking at the Schrade Posts. Nice to know your about... Ken.
 
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