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Buck's Selkirk, Compadre Chopping Froe and Kinetic Fishing Spear were specifically chosen for this review to compliment each other for camp/survival tasks. Following a visit to Buck at IWA 2016 I've been able to give these a good workout to see how they fare.
The Blade and Handle Geometry:
Most knife specifications have a basic description of the blade geometry, but in this section I will be taking a more detailed look at geometry and balance.
Using a set of gauges and precision measuring equipment including a Vernier protractor, callipers, fixed radius gauges and the unique Arc Master adjustable radius gauge (the one that looks like a crossbow).
These measurements have been tabulated and are presented along with a few reference blades (8" Chef's Knife, 5.5" Santoku and the popular Fällkniven F1).
Key aspects such as the primary bevel angle, grind type, blade depth, blade thickness, length, weight are detailed, along with balance information.
The 'Balance relative to the front of the handle' tells you if the knife will feel front heavy, or if the weight is in your hand (a positive value means the weight is forward of the front of the handle). The 'Balance relative to the centre of the handle' indicates how close to a 'neutral balance' the knife has in the hand.
In the case of full convex grinds the approximate centre of the grind is used for the primary bevel angle estimate.
Explained by the Maker:
The reasons for certain design choices may not be clear when simply looking at an object, so this section is intended to give an insight into the thinking behind a design by speaking to the designer themselves.
Unfortunately I cant always get time with the designer so will use this section to include relevant information about the knife and its designer.
The following comments are noted from a walk-through that Joseph Piedmont kindly gave at SHOT Show.
Model 863, the Selkirk is Buck's new survival knife which includes a fire-rod with whistle for signaling. The sheath is moulded plastic and features multi-carry capability that can be reconfigured to allow for vertical or horizontal carry, and even upside-down as a neck knife.
The knife itself is a flat-grind drop-point featuring a .....
For this section, please go to the Exclusive Content at Tactical Reviews, but remember to return to this forum to discuss the review.
A few more details of the Selkirk Survival Knife:
Before concentrating on the Selkirk, here are the boxes for all three together.
The Selkirk arrives in its sheath with ferrocerium rod and whistle, plus an instruction leaflet for the sheath mounting options and a warranty card.
Though it looks like a Kydex type of sheath, it is a moulded plastic.
On the back of the sheath, the belt loops can be removed and refitted in different positions.
All the components lined up with the sheath, knife and ferrocerium rod/whistle.
The Selkirk has a nice deep blade with full flat grind.
Buck say that the pommel (rear bolster) can be used as an improvised hammer.
Looking close up at the handle micarta sides you can see the semi-smooth finish and additional grip grooves.
An overall view of the handle. The layers in the micarta act as contour lines showing the shaping.
From a different angle you can see the palm swell and grip flaring.
A very close view of the choil and its sharp edges for striking the fire-rod.
Going closer still for a look at the point and how the cutting edge has been formed from a coarse grit followed by a polishing process.
On the spine there is an area of jimping for the thumb to sit on. On this example this was well formed and not too sharp.
Keeping on the up-close theme, the moulded sheath has the Buck logo moulded into it.
Next to the fire-rod holder are the sheath screws which adjust the retention tension of the sheath. You can change how much force is needed to remove and insert the knife by adjusting these screws.
On the lower part of the whistle is a bayonet fitting to hold the fire-rod in place. There is also a cord which can be stretched over the end of the rod to further secure it.
Inside the belt loop is a moveable adjuster block to cater for different width belts.
At the tip of the sheath there are metal rivets that provide tying points.
The overall impression of this knife is good, but its mass produced character is visible when you start looking and small details. Here the micarta handle is not a perfect fit.
Still looking for flaws, this time at the pommel, the grinding is not that precise and filler appears to have been used between the micarta and steel pommel.
The Selkirk with a couple of other well known knives to provide the scale. (Fällkniven F1 and a Spyderco UK Pen Knife)
One last look at this knife before moving onto the Froe.
A few more details of the Compadre Chopping Froe:
First impressions are really good thanks to the leather sheath the Froe arrives in. The only other item in the box is the warranty card.
Immediately obvious are some nice touches like the retaining strap's popper cover having Buck's logo and name on it.
Also of note with the retaining strap is that the metal back of the popper that sits against the handle has been covered to prevent it marking the wooden handle.
There is a cut-out in the sheath that shows the Buck anvil logo cut into the blade.
Pressed into the leather sheath is the Buck logo.
The sheath is well stitched and riveted for extra strength.
On the back of the sheath the rolled rivet heads are not as neat as on the front, but fit with the rivet colour used for the hanging loop.
The rolled over heads of the rivets on the back of the sheath look like this.
A nice heavy duty D-ring is used for the hanger.
Opening the two retaining straps allows the Froe to slide out.
A very obvious label warning you not to strike the Froe's blade with hardened tools is on the side of the blade. This is no different to traditional froes or any other blade you might baton with.
Whipping the label off gives you the full effect of the red powder coating.
The 'tip' of the blade shows the splitting wedge design of the blade grind.
There is a subtle choil next to the handle.
At the top of the blade next to the handle there is a hole in the blade. Though this could be used as a wrist strap attachment point, I would advise you to be very careful if you want to do this as it can become more dangerous than the tool coming out of the hand.
The American walnut handle slabs are held on with nice looking bolts.
Blade stock used for the Froe is substantial.
Having a long handle, the Froe can be used with different grips.
looking along the Froe to show more of the contours of this tool.
There is a nice swell at the pommel to prevent slipping, but no striking surface. If you hammer on, or with, this tool you risk damaging the handle. This view also shows the handle is made from plywood, not solid wood, as this will be more resilient and resistant to cracking.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author's Statement for Transparency and Disclosure
The test sample/s featured in this article have been provided for technical testing and review by the manufacturer. Test samples are retained by the reviewer following publication of the completed review for the purposes of long term testing and product comparisons.
All output figures and test results published in this review are the sole work of the reviewer, and are carried out independently and without bias. Test results are reported as found, with no embellishments or alteration. Though best endeavours are made to maintain the accuracy of test equipment, the accuracy of these results is not guaranteed and is subject to the test equipment functioning correctly.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author's Statement for Transparency and Disclosure
The test sample/s featured in this article have been provided for technical testing and review by the manufacturer. Test samples are retained by the reviewer following publication of the completed review for the purposes of long term testing and product comparisons.
All output figures and test results published in this review are the sole work of the reviewer, and are carried out independently and without bias. Test results are reported as found, with no embellishments or alteration. Though best endeavours are made to maintain the accuracy of test equipment, the accuracy of these results is not guaranteed and is subject to the test equipment functioning correctly.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Blade and Handle Geometry:
Most knife specifications have a basic description of the blade geometry, but in this section I will be taking a more detailed look at geometry and balance.
Using a set of gauges and precision measuring equipment including a Vernier protractor, callipers, fixed radius gauges and the unique Arc Master adjustable radius gauge (the one that looks like a crossbow).
These measurements have been tabulated and are presented along with a few reference blades (8" Chef's Knife, 5.5" Santoku and the popular Fällkniven F1).
Key aspects such as the primary bevel angle, grind type, blade depth, blade thickness, length, weight are detailed, along with balance information.
The 'Balance relative to the front of the handle' tells you if the knife will feel front heavy, or if the weight is in your hand (a positive value means the weight is forward of the front of the handle). The 'Balance relative to the centre of the handle' indicates how close to a 'neutral balance' the knife has in the hand.
In the case of full convex grinds the approximate centre of the grind is used for the primary bevel angle estimate.
Explained by the Maker:
The reasons for certain design choices may not be clear when simply looking at an object, so this section is intended to give an insight into the thinking behind a design by speaking to the designer themselves.
Unfortunately I cant always get time with the designer so will use this section to include relevant information about the knife and its designer.
The following comments are noted from a walk-through that Joseph Piedmont kindly gave at SHOT Show.
Model 863, the Selkirk is Buck's new survival knife which includes a fire-rod with whistle for signaling. The sheath is moulded plastic and features multi-carry capability that can be reconfigured to allow for vertical or horizontal carry, and even upside-down as a neck knife.
The knife itself is a flat-grind drop-point featuring a .....
For this section, please go to the Exclusive Content at Tactical Reviews, but remember to return to this forum to discuss the review.
A few more details of the Selkirk Survival Knife:
Before concentrating on the Selkirk, here are the boxes for all three together.
The Selkirk arrives in its sheath with ferrocerium rod and whistle, plus an instruction leaflet for the sheath mounting options and a warranty card.
Though it looks like a Kydex type of sheath, it is a moulded plastic.
On the back of the sheath, the belt loops can be removed and refitted in different positions.
All the components lined up with the sheath, knife and ferrocerium rod/whistle.
The Selkirk has a nice deep blade with full flat grind.
Buck say that the pommel (rear bolster) can be used as an improvised hammer.
Looking close up at the handle micarta sides you can see the semi-smooth finish and additional grip grooves.
An overall view of the handle. The layers in the micarta act as contour lines showing the shaping.
From a different angle you can see the palm swell and grip flaring.
A very close view of the choil and its sharp edges for striking the fire-rod.
Going closer still for a look at the point and how the cutting edge has been formed from a coarse grit followed by a polishing process.
On the spine there is an area of jimping for the thumb to sit on. On this example this was well formed and not too sharp.
Keeping on the up-close theme, the moulded sheath has the Buck logo moulded into it.
Next to the fire-rod holder are the sheath screws which adjust the retention tension of the sheath. You can change how much force is needed to remove and insert the knife by adjusting these screws.
On the lower part of the whistle is a bayonet fitting to hold the fire-rod in place. There is also a cord which can be stretched over the end of the rod to further secure it.
Inside the belt loop is a moveable adjuster block to cater for different width belts.
At the tip of the sheath there are metal rivets that provide tying points.
The overall impression of this knife is good, but its mass produced character is visible when you start looking and small details. Here the micarta handle is not a perfect fit.
Still looking for flaws, this time at the pommel, the grinding is not that precise and filler appears to have been used between the micarta and steel pommel.
The Selkirk with a couple of other well known knives to provide the scale. (Fällkniven F1 and a Spyderco UK Pen Knife)
One last look at this knife before moving onto the Froe.
A few more details of the Compadre Chopping Froe:
First impressions are really good thanks to the leather sheath the Froe arrives in. The only other item in the box is the warranty card.
Immediately obvious are some nice touches like the retaining strap's popper cover having Buck's logo and name on it.
Also of note with the retaining strap is that the metal back of the popper that sits against the handle has been covered to prevent it marking the wooden handle.
There is a cut-out in the sheath that shows the Buck anvil logo cut into the blade.
Pressed into the leather sheath is the Buck logo.
The sheath is well stitched and riveted for extra strength.
On the back of the sheath the rolled rivet heads are not as neat as on the front, but fit with the rivet colour used for the hanging loop.
The rolled over heads of the rivets on the back of the sheath look like this.
A nice heavy duty D-ring is used for the hanger.
Opening the two retaining straps allows the Froe to slide out.
A very obvious label warning you not to strike the Froe's blade with hardened tools is on the side of the blade. This is no different to traditional froes or any other blade you might baton with.
Whipping the label off gives you the full effect of the red powder coating.
The 'tip' of the blade shows the splitting wedge design of the blade grind.
There is a subtle choil next to the handle.
At the top of the blade next to the handle there is a hole in the blade. Though this could be used as a wrist strap attachment point, I would advise you to be very careful if you want to do this as it can become more dangerous than the tool coming out of the hand.
The American walnut handle slabs are held on with nice looking bolts.
Blade stock used for the Froe is substantial.
Having a long handle, the Froe can be used with different grips.
looking along the Froe to show more of the contours of this tool.
There is a nice swell at the pommel to prevent slipping, but no striking surface. If you hammer on, or with, this tool you risk damaging the handle. This view also shows the handle is made from plywood, not solid wood, as this will be more resilient and resistant to cracking.
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