- Joined
- May 2, 1999
- Messages
- 1,206
This is a great knife that often get's passed by in favor of more trendy pieces, many of which fail to offer a significant, if any, adavntage over it.
I had mine for round about two years, which is a record for me and folders. I don't care who makes it, what it's made from, or what high-tech features it has, I can and will break it.
I say "had" because I finaly broke mine a couple weeks/months ago when I found myself locked out of my house. Against better judgement I attempted to spread the doorjam with the blade of my XlTi. It flexed around half an inch out of line and then, predictably, it snapped.
I should note that it was only about 3/4 an inch or so in, so all the force was on the tip where the least amount of metal is. I then stuck what was left into the door and managed to spread the frame enough to retrieve the broken-off tip.
Buck says it's got a closed length of 4 and 7/8's an inch, and a blade length of 3 and 1/4's an inch. The handle length is right, but the blade is actualy a bit longer, I think they're just quoting the sharpened portion of the blade. Mine was closer to 3 and 3/4 long, if you include the unsharpened ricasso.
The finger grooved handle is a hair over 3/8's an inch or so, and remarkably comfortable and secure. I have let the knife be used by many different people, who naturaly have different sized hands, and they all said it fit pretty well, even in the reverse grip. The large gaurd that's integral to the handle eliminates the possibility of your hand slipping up onto the blade.
A feature that is missing in many high-priced "tactical customs".
The lock itself is the same ol' strong and reliable lockback found in their more popular 110. I have thrusted full force into a tree and the blade did not fold. I may be only 145lbs, but that's still a lot of stress. Needless to say, spine whack tests don't have any effect, and I've never found anyone who could "white knuckle" it open. By the way, if you wish to do this yourself, go ahead, but do so at your own risk. I take no responsibility if you got a lemon that folded on you.
I have used this knife to cut through branches 1.5 inches thick, not all at once obviously, but it did the job without problems. I've opened soup cans with out incedent too. Dulled it up a bit, but didn't noticably loosen the blade any.
If you want to know bout edge retention, you're asking the wrong guy. I never notice that. I pretty much cut stuff with a knife and then sharpen it when it gets dull, as all knives will. The best I can offer is that it never got so dull that it wouldn't cut cleanly, and it resharpened easily on my flat diamond stone.
You'll notice that this review doesn't include any cutting of rope, free hanging or otherwise, or clamping in vices and what not. That's not what I ever used this knife for, so it never got tested like that. What I can tell you is that I lived with it for about two years, and used many times a day, every day, and never had it go sour on me. It's a solid and reliable knife suitable for both defense and utility.
However, having used it for a couple years, I have noticed several areas I'd like to see refined;
1. I'd like to see a straight rather than concave clip. Like on a Project 2.
Reason being that a concave clip's main advantage is when it's fully sharpened and on a large fighting knife, for the purpose of delivering backcuts. On a knife this size, it just unneccesarily removes steel from the point.
.2 I'd like a lanyard hole.
These things are just all-around handy on just about any knife, but I carry my folders in the fifth poket of my Levi's under my belt, so a fob would aid in drawing the knife.
Pocket clips suck. They can at worst cut you, at best raise blisters after extended use. Besides, clips aren't as secure as the above method.
.3 Add a thumbstud to the blade, but towards the base, like on a Applegate Combat Folder.
Thumbstuds are a nicety, not a neccesity, and you can open this knife one-handed just fine without them. In fact, I never used both hands to open it when I was using this knife for utility purposes.
Still, it would be "nice", as long as the thumbstud was far enough back so as not to impair slicing or, in a defensive situation, a thrust.
.4 The black powder coating on the black version looks sloppy and feels weird. I'd like it replaced with an oxide coating of some sort, or actualy Buckcote would be great.
I heard that this knife may be discontinued. That would be a shame. If you'd like to see this knife stay in production, and especialy if you'd like to see my porposed upgrades, e-mail Buck, or post on the thread on the subject I've started in the Buck forum;
www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum27/HTML/000197.html
I had mine for round about two years, which is a record for me and folders. I don't care who makes it, what it's made from, or what high-tech features it has, I can and will break it.
I say "had" because I finaly broke mine a couple weeks/months ago when I found myself locked out of my house. Against better judgement I attempted to spread the doorjam with the blade of my XlTi. It flexed around half an inch out of line and then, predictably, it snapped.
I should note that it was only about 3/4 an inch or so in, so all the force was on the tip where the least amount of metal is. I then stuck what was left into the door and managed to spread the frame enough to retrieve the broken-off tip.
Buck says it's got a closed length of 4 and 7/8's an inch, and a blade length of 3 and 1/4's an inch. The handle length is right, but the blade is actualy a bit longer, I think they're just quoting the sharpened portion of the blade. Mine was closer to 3 and 3/4 long, if you include the unsharpened ricasso.
The finger grooved handle is a hair over 3/8's an inch or so, and remarkably comfortable and secure. I have let the knife be used by many different people, who naturaly have different sized hands, and they all said it fit pretty well, even in the reverse grip. The large gaurd that's integral to the handle eliminates the possibility of your hand slipping up onto the blade.
A feature that is missing in many high-priced "tactical customs".
The lock itself is the same ol' strong and reliable lockback found in their more popular 110. I have thrusted full force into a tree and the blade did not fold. I may be only 145lbs, but that's still a lot of stress. Needless to say, spine whack tests don't have any effect, and I've never found anyone who could "white knuckle" it open. By the way, if you wish to do this yourself, go ahead, but do so at your own risk. I take no responsibility if you got a lemon that folded on you.
I have used this knife to cut through branches 1.5 inches thick, not all at once obviously, but it did the job without problems. I've opened soup cans with out incedent too. Dulled it up a bit, but didn't noticably loosen the blade any.
If you want to know bout edge retention, you're asking the wrong guy. I never notice that. I pretty much cut stuff with a knife and then sharpen it when it gets dull, as all knives will. The best I can offer is that it never got so dull that it wouldn't cut cleanly, and it resharpened easily on my flat diamond stone.
You'll notice that this review doesn't include any cutting of rope, free hanging or otherwise, or clamping in vices and what not. That's not what I ever used this knife for, so it never got tested like that. What I can tell you is that I lived with it for about two years, and used many times a day, every day, and never had it go sour on me. It's a solid and reliable knife suitable for both defense and utility.
However, having used it for a couple years, I have noticed several areas I'd like to see refined;
1. I'd like to see a straight rather than concave clip. Like on a Project 2.
Reason being that a concave clip's main advantage is when it's fully sharpened and on a large fighting knife, for the purpose of delivering backcuts. On a knife this size, it just unneccesarily removes steel from the point.
.2 I'd like a lanyard hole.
These things are just all-around handy on just about any knife, but I carry my folders in the fifth poket of my Levi's under my belt, so a fob would aid in drawing the knife.
Pocket clips suck. They can at worst cut you, at best raise blisters after extended use. Besides, clips aren't as secure as the above method.
.3 Add a thumbstud to the blade, but towards the base, like on a Applegate Combat Folder.
Thumbstuds are a nicety, not a neccesity, and you can open this knife one-handed just fine without them. In fact, I never used both hands to open it when I was using this knife for utility purposes.
Still, it would be "nice", as long as the thumbstud was far enough back so as not to impair slicing or, in a defensive situation, a thrust.
.4 The black powder coating on the black version looks sloppy and feels weird. I'd like it replaced with an oxide coating of some sort, or actualy Buckcote would be great.
I heard that this knife may be discontinued. That would be a shame. If you'd like to see this knife stay in production, and especialy if you'd like to see my porposed upgrades, e-mail Buck, or post on the thread on the subject I've started in the Buck forum;
www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum27/HTML/000197.html