- Joined
- May 16, 2006
- Messages
- 227
SOLD
My name is Richard Von Hagen Palmer. I am a knife maker/functional artist. Thanks for checking out my work. I hope you like what you see.
This Boot Style knife was ground from 5/32" 01 Tool Steel Bar Stock. It has a Beveled Flat Ground Blade with a false edge. The overall length of this knife is 9" while the blade length is well proportioned at 4 3/8". The handle on this particular knife Buckeye Burl and has a red Vulcanized Spacer.
Many more photos are available upon request!!
The cost of this knife is $190. This includes shipping within the United States. International Shipping is available but may be extra. Payment methods accepted are PayPal, Money Order, Cashiers Check or Personal Check. If paying by Personal Check, shipment will be made after check clears.
I do all the work on my knives, from start to finish. Each knife has about three full days of labor involved. I really try not to think about that because it would be far too sobering!
The handle is tapered and hollow ground to better balance the weight onto the blade, where it belongs. I do my own heat treatment. I edge quench and triple temper my blades to a Rockwell Hardness of 58/60. Each knife is then bench tested to assure it holds an edge and does not chip out when carving on brass.
I finish the blades out to a 2,000 grit but I never buff my knives; I believe it puts too much heat on a blade. Next comes the three day process to add the patina. This not only keeps the rust down but it adds my own unique look to the blade pretty awesome. Now the patina will last on the blade but it is up to you, the knife owner, to wax it well. I personally like using Hut Crystal Cut. This is an alcohol, shellac and wax based product from hutprotucts.com. Another favorite of mine is Renaissance Wax.
I shop around for handle material. Most of what I buy comes in blocks or slabs, which I buy raw, unstabilized and mostly wet. I cut the scales, stabilize them and then harden them in a zero atmosphere setting. This entire process may take up to a year to a year and a half. It may seem like a lot of work and a lot of waiting but this allows me to use woods that you just can't buy from the knife scale sellers.
On handles, I am not a big fan of pins. I do use pins on my micarta knives because micarta is generally ugly and needs a little something. The pins add personality. If I don't use pins, how do I assure the handles don't come off? I use three (3) 3/8" anchors that are attached to the tang. The handle material is then milled and keywayed to fit up into the anchors. A lot of work goes into this but when the epoxy is added, it creates a fusion that will never come loose. In the fifteen years I have been making knives, I have never lost a handle yet! There are hundreds of different epoxies out there. They are used for everything from gluing tiles on to the space shuttle to gluing the reflectors to the street that just thump and don't break when you go over them at high speeds. I like one that is a two part, high impact Thixotropic industrial strength adhesive. The high impact adhesive is important to me because it will not crack on impact or in temperature changes. Once hairline cracks form, it is nothing for them to grow and the knife will just fall apart. I was lucky enough to spend time with an epoxy manufacturer, in his lab, and find the exact formula for what I needed. If you want more information on this, contact me.
I use Vulcanized spacers on my knives. Yes, it gives the knife a custom look and adds color but the real reason for the spacer is that it adds a happy medium between the high carbon, corrosive steel and the handle material.
The lanyard tube on my knives are micarta. I think this is the best material to use because it reticulates better than brass or nickel. The lanyard beads are turned from the same material as the handle. This not only gives a knife a good, custom look but it adds extra security. If you have ever lost hold of a knife and it dropped, hit the floor and broke the tip; I'll wager that you did not have a lanyard on that knife. A lanyard also aids in putting the knife into and out of the sheath.
I make each sheath for my knives also. They are made from top quality leather. Like all of my sheaths, THIS sheath was cut around THIS knife. I waterproof the inside of the sheath and wax the outside. I hand stitch each sheath. I like the Calvary Style which rides low on the belt line and has a deep fit to prevent the knife from sliding out.
Each knife is sharpened before it leaves my workbench. I like DMT Blue and then DMT Red. For the final finish I use Hard Arkansas or Brown Ceramic Whet Stone by Spderco. On the Hard Arkansas or the Ceramic, I use a lubricant called Cutting Edge Majic. This is an oil based, silicon nitrate which helps hold an edge 2 - 4 times longer. If you want more info on this product, let me know.
So, that is what I have to offer... My Best. I call myself a functional artist because for the fifteen years I have been making knives, I have believed that a knife should be a work of art but MUST be functional. You should never be afraid to carry it with you, to take it out and to use it. The craftsmanship of the art should be such that it will hold up to everyday use. I will stand up and say, with confidence, that there is no other knife out there like this one. If my legacy comes to pass, I believe these knives will be out there long after you and I are gone.
Again, thanks for looking,
Rick
My name is Richard Von Hagen Palmer. I am a knife maker/functional artist. Thanks for checking out my work. I hope you like what you see.
This Boot Style knife was ground from 5/32" 01 Tool Steel Bar Stock. It has a Beveled Flat Ground Blade with a false edge. The overall length of this knife is 9" while the blade length is well proportioned at 4 3/8". The handle on this particular knife Buckeye Burl and has a red Vulcanized Spacer.
Many more photos are available upon request!!
The cost of this knife is $190. This includes shipping within the United States. International Shipping is available but may be extra. Payment methods accepted are PayPal, Money Order, Cashiers Check or Personal Check. If paying by Personal Check, shipment will be made after check clears.
I do all the work on my knives, from start to finish. Each knife has about three full days of labor involved. I really try not to think about that because it would be far too sobering!
The handle is tapered and hollow ground to better balance the weight onto the blade, where it belongs. I do my own heat treatment. I edge quench and triple temper my blades to a Rockwell Hardness of 58/60. Each knife is then bench tested to assure it holds an edge and does not chip out when carving on brass.
I finish the blades out to a 2,000 grit but I never buff my knives; I believe it puts too much heat on a blade. Next comes the three day process to add the patina. This not only keeps the rust down but it adds my own unique look to the blade pretty awesome. Now the patina will last on the blade but it is up to you, the knife owner, to wax it well. I personally like using Hut Crystal Cut. This is an alcohol, shellac and wax based product from hutprotucts.com. Another favorite of mine is Renaissance Wax.
I shop around for handle material. Most of what I buy comes in blocks or slabs, which I buy raw, unstabilized and mostly wet. I cut the scales, stabilize them and then harden them in a zero atmosphere setting. This entire process may take up to a year to a year and a half. It may seem like a lot of work and a lot of waiting but this allows me to use woods that you just can't buy from the knife scale sellers.
On handles, I am not a big fan of pins. I do use pins on my micarta knives because micarta is generally ugly and needs a little something. The pins add personality. If I don't use pins, how do I assure the handles don't come off? I use three (3) 3/8" anchors that are attached to the tang. The handle material is then milled and keywayed to fit up into the anchors. A lot of work goes into this but when the epoxy is added, it creates a fusion that will never come loose. In the fifteen years I have been making knives, I have never lost a handle yet! There are hundreds of different epoxies out there. They are used for everything from gluing tiles on to the space shuttle to gluing the reflectors to the street that just thump and don't break when you go over them at high speeds. I like one that is a two part, high impact Thixotropic industrial strength adhesive. The high impact adhesive is important to me because it will not crack on impact or in temperature changes. Once hairline cracks form, it is nothing for them to grow and the knife will just fall apart. I was lucky enough to spend time with an epoxy manufacturer, in his lab, and find the exact formula for what I needed. If you want more information on this, contact me.
I use Vulcanized spacers on my knives. Yes, it gives the knife a custom look and adds color but the real reason for the spacer is that it adds a happy medium between the high carbon, corrosive steel and the handle material.
The lanyard tube on my knives are micarta. I think this is the best material to use because it reticulates better than brass or nickel. The lanyard beads are turned from the same material as the handle. This not only gives a knife a good, custom look but it adds extra security. If you have ever lost hold of a knife and it dropped, hit the floor and broke the tip; I'll wager that you did not have a lanyard on that knife. A lanyard also aids in putting the knife into and out of the sheath.
I make each sheath for my knives also. They are made from top quality leather. Like all of my sheaths, THIS sheath was cut around THIS knife. I waterproof the inside of the sheath and wax the outside. I hand stitch each sheath. I like the Calvary Style which rides low on the belt line and has a deep fit to prevent the knife from sliding out.
Each knife is sharpened before it leaves my workbench. I like DMT Blue and then DMT Red. For the final finish I use Hard Arkansas or Brown Ceramic Whet Stone by Spderco. On the Hard Arkansas or the Ceramic, I use a lubricant called Cutting Edge Majic. This is an oil based, silicon nitrate which helps hold an edge 2 - 4 times longer. If you want more info on this product, let me know.
So, that is what I have to offer... My Best. I call myself a functional artist because for the fifteen years I have been making knives, I have believed that a knife should be a work of art but MUST be functional. You should never be afraid to carry it with you, to take it out and to use it. The craftsmanship of the art should be such that it will hold up to everyday use. I will stand up and say, with confidence, that there is no other knife out there like this one. If my legacy comes to pass, I believe these knives will be out there long after you and I are gone.
Again, thanks for looking,
Rick
Thank you for the nice words! Tell Steve hello too.