Buckeye Burl

T

Teknotchr

Joined
Aug 27, 2001
Messages
34
Found some big blocks of buckeye burl today at a woodworking store. They are covered with wax to retain moisture content. Does anyone know what I can treat this with once cut so that it doesn't crack, wharp, and become useless? I don't believe it has been kiln dried, as they would not guarantee me the moisture content. I have never used this material before, but thought about putting it on a knife I am donating to Pheasants Forever organization. Any info would be appreciated.
 
I have just been cutting up some blocks of exotic burls this week and am wondering the same thing. In my case, I have some Amboyna Burl that is very dry and light. It has not warped at all once I cut it. The Tasmanian Eucalyptus Burl is a totally different story however, wet and incredibly dense and it wants to move all over the place. My understanding is to cut up into some large chunks, wait a few weeks, then cut smaller, wait a bit more, etc. In between you can slow down the drying by applying danish oil to freshly cut blocks then wrapping in plastic with some sawdust. This is a method that I have just read while researching this very subject, but I would be anxious to hear how more experienced makers actually do this. I guess there are no shortcuts with wood and they just need time to age.
 
Try green wood sealer from Rockler. It goes only on the board ends and not the whole slab. Makes it easier to work with if it isn't soaked in wax.Or you could send me some and I'll test it for you.
Take Care
TJ
 
The short simple answer is:
Cut it about 25 to 30% bigger than you need.
It WILL twist and deform somewhat so allow the extra. The faster it dries the more cracks and checking you get.
Put it into a controlled drying area. Because I live in AZ moisture is not a problem.
Drying out too fast is!!! I cut my burl up (Was about as wet as it gets) and placed it in a cardboard box with a raised grate in the bottom. Stacked the pieces so they allowed air to circulate evenly. Left the lid to the box half way open and stuck it in room where there is warm dry air moving.

Be patient.

After it dries get it stabilized, I am finding the home stabilizing is a pain and gets mixed results.
I know I will hear about this one:p
The professionally stabilized wood works like a dream and needs nothing other than good sanding follow thru and buffing. FAR EASIER to shape and finish.
 
Tech, something as nice as buckeye burl, I'd cut it into the sizes I wanted and send it to K&G for stabilzing. Well worth the extra money.
 
as you can see there is no set awnser. my shop is about half a garage about three blocks from the ocean. i have the opposite from robert in arizona. i have sent stuff to k&g in the past, and now i buy cal buckeye ETC, from www.galleryhardwoods.com ready to go. stabized and cut.
 
One thing about sending wood in to be stabilized. The moisture content must be as low as 10 to 12 percent. Come to think of it, that is probably one of the factors for the mixed results with home stabilizing.

C Wilkins
 
Thanks for the input. I think I will have some professionally stabilized and experiment with the rest.
 
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