- Joined
- Jul 4, 2017
- Messages
- 1,882
We see a lot of discussion of Buck's 420HC steel here, and some discussion of 440C, but I rarely notice any mention of 425M, which is reported to have been used from 1982 to 1991. I'd be interested in hearing any information you might have about the characteristics of this steel.
Why I'm Curious:
I have a 703, 119, and 532 from the era of 425M. I haven't carried the 703 in a long time, and it was last "sharpened" way back when I knew even less about sharpening than I do now. I recently decided to check it out and found it to be a lot more work than Case's stainless steel. (No surprise there.) I used my DMT four inch pocket stones starting with 220 grit, making sure it would shave arm hair before moving on to finer grits (typically 325 and 600 at least, then on to 1200, 8000, and finally 14,000 lapping film sometimes, depending on my mood).
My 532 has a few chips in the edge so I though I'd see what I could do to fix that. I made a few high angle passes on my 220 grit stone, then drew the edge across the same stone a few times. That didn't eliminate the chips completely, but was as far as I wanted to go for a first test. Then I moved on to the 220 stone to reestablish the apex. Well... It must have taken 30 to 40 minutes to get a good apex back. I was starting to think I was never going to make it. After that I moved to higher grits and the whole process must have taken an hour or more.
This seems to be some pretty tough, hard steel.
Why I'm Curious:
I have a 703, 119, and 532 from the era of 425M. I haven't carried the 703 in a long time, and it was last "sharpened" way back when I knew even less about sharpening than I do now. I recently decided to check it out and found it to be a lot more work than Case's stainless steel. (No surprise there.) I used my DMT four inch pocket stones starting with 220 grit, making sure it would shave arm hair before moving on to finer grits (typically 325 and 600 at least, then on to 1200, 8000, and finally 14,000 lapping film sometimes, depending on my mood).
My 532 has a few chips in the edge so I though I'd see what I could do to fix that. I made a few high angle passes on my 220 grit stone, then drew the edge across the same stone a few times. That didn't eliminate the chips completely, but was as far as I wanted to go for a first test. Then I moved on to the 220 stone to reestablish the apex. Well... It must have taken 30 to 40 minutes to get a good apex back. I was starting to think I was never going to make it. After that I moved to higher grits and the whole process must have taken an hour or more.
This seems to be some pretty tough, hard steel.