Budget sharpening?

NikolaTesla said:
I've bought two packs of assorted sandpaper, with no 100, 150 and fine is 200 grit I assume, that won't be a long lasting edge will it?

How do you use the mousepad to sharpen with sandpaper. Also do any of you use grits like this?
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Is this the brown sandpaper (garnet), as used for wood? I'm asking, because the grit values you've mentioned seem WAY too low. The 'wet/dry' sandpaper is silicon carbide abrasive (black/gray), made for essentially all materials, including hardened steel. Of that type, a 'coarse' grit would be in the range of 220/320, and 'medium' from about 400-600, and 'fine' and higher would be something like 800+ grit.
 
Yeah it's brown, so I can't use this?

Looking at the 200grit paper it seems much higher just by looking at it.
 
I make my own sharpner $10.00 I have been sharping my kershaw leek on it for 10 years or better. If I cant shave the hair off of my arm then it is not good enough.
 
NikolaTesla said:
Yeah it's brown, so I can't use this?

Looking at the 200grit paper it seems much higher just by looking at it.
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It won't likely work too well on steel. The abrasive on that paper is garnet, which isn't nearly as hard or aggressive as sanding abrasives made for steel (like silicon carbide or aluminum oxide). Works fine for wood and similar soft materials. But not for steel. The grit spec for it is a different scale entirely, with 150+ usually being pretty 'fine' (for wood).

For the 'wet/dry' type sandpaper, look to brands like Norton or 3M. Both are excellent. You can usually find these types at automotive repair stores (for auto paint re-finishing), or dedicated woodworking outlets (Woodcraft, for example, carries the Norton brand of silicon carbide wet/dry).
 
Nikola,

Those two stones are likely pretty coarse, based on the product descriptions (fast sharpening of tools, axes, etc). No idea what grit, specifically. Might be best to ask the dealer or manufacturer.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Nikola,

Those two stones are likely pretty coarse, based on the product descriptions (fast sharpening of tools, axes, etc). No idea what grit, specifically. Might be best to ask the dealer or manufacturer.
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Generic combo stones like that are probably 220/400 or so. Aluminum oxide stones settle down a lot more than silicon carbide, they might wind up 320/600 effective grit. There is a big difference IMO when it comes to cheap AlumOx and something like a Norton India stone. A cheap silicon carbide stone will still grinds as well as the more expensive ones, it'll just shed more grit doing so.
 
My opinion is that if you're going to buy sharpening stones, get the good ones. Japanese water stones, diamond stones, ceramic, Norton stones, etc. Those are going to run at least $30 each (usually more), and you'll need 3 or 4 stones minimum to handle everything from heavy restoration to mirror polishing the edge.

If you're not ready to put that kind of money in stones, sandpaper is the way to go. You can get a fantastic edge, as course or fine as you like. Sandpaper can also fill in grit-gaps in your other sharpening systems.

You do want the black, wet-dry paper (SiC or AlO). The best place I can find these locally is at a wholesale tools shop. They sell all manner of tools and hardware. Much of it is Chinese junk, but they do carry loads of 3M abrasives. You can buy grits from 50 to 2500 by the sheet. I'm not sure if they have any place like this in Wales, but surely there is some place to buy nice sandpaper locally. Its used by lots of tradesmen/craftsmen. Look for industrial-oriented suppliers.
 
Ok, I'll see if B&Q have any higher grit sandpaper, also they sell a 4 side diamond stone for 9 pound, so that might be worth getting.
 
you can get the auto sandpaper at walmart in the auto section thats where i get mine, you wont find the finer grit stuff in the home improvement isle.
 
tfields said:
you can get the auto sandpaper at walmart in the auto section thats where i get mine, you wont find the finer grit stuff in the home improvement isle.
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I also wanted to ask if you use a stone (Aluminium Oxide) over time does the grit go finer?

My friend has a about 7 year old Alu Oxide stone which has been heavily used and the fine side which I assume is about 400grit, is badly gummed with steel, I thought it would make the grit finer.
 
HeavyHanded said:
Generic combo stones like that are probably 220/400 or so. Aluminum oxide stones settle down a lot more than silicon carbide, they might wind up 320/600 effective grit. There is a big difference IMO when it comes to cheap AlumOx and something like a Norton India stone. A cheap silicon carbide stone will still grinds as well as the more expensive ones, it'll just shed more grit doing so.
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Yeah, I immediately thought of the Norton stones, when seeing the blue/gray hone linked earlier. At the price listed for that particular one, I assumed it may not be of the same quality as the Norton.

Thanks!
 
NikolaTesla said:
Also GreenmanBushcraft said those stones are not recommended for bushcraft knifes.

Guys do you reckon this will do?

http://www.metalpolishingsupplies.co.uk/wet-and-dry-sand-paper-10pk/

The 1200grit.
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That's more like it, in terms of the type & grit range you should try. Your preference, as to the grit. I'd still recommend trying a range of grits (at least 400+), to get a better feel for how each can work for your needs. I'll bet you'll find it very useful. :thumbup:
 
NikolaTesla said:
I also wanted to ask if you use a stone (Aluminium Oxide) over time does the grit go finer?

My friend has a about 7 year old Alu Oxide stone which has been heavily used and the fine side which I assume is about 400grit, is badly gummed with steel, I thought it would make the grit finer.
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Grit & performance shouldn't change significantly, IF the stones are kept clean. If they do load up with steel (oil, dirt, etc.), it will degrade their performance over time. Doesn't actually change the grit itself, but the gummy stuff really gets in the way. Just won't cut as aggressively.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
That's more like it, in terms of the type & grit range you should try. Your preference, as to the grit. I'd still recommend trying a range of grits (at least 400+), to get a better feel for how each can work for your needs. I'll bet you'll find it very useful. :thumbup:
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Well my DC4 has some grit on the diamond side, so then I could finish with 1200grit then strop, I don't have metal polish for a strop so I use toothpaste, I've also used pledge polish just to polish the blade.
 
i use turtle wax metal polish from wally world too stoup with. lol good ole walmart!
 
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