Buffer options

sierra11b

sierra11b

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Joined
Mar 22, 2005
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626
Now that I'm completely respectful (and apprehensive) on what a buffer can do to human flesh from reading numerous threads, I'm still not finding alternatives to the Baldor 1800rpm 3/4hp.

I wish I could afford the Baldor but it's just too expensive for my budget. But at the same time I'd still like to get 1800rpm buffer for safety reasons. What are my options, if any?

-Eric
 
Build one yourself.
You can get any speed 3/4HP motor,a 5/8" shaft bench arbor/mandrel , and the pulley sizes needed to make it run at the desired speed.
Here is a photo of something like you want (not this exact one ,shaft is smaller than I like, but one like it or any 5/8" arbor shaft with bearings.). I think HF sells them.Most knife supply companies sell the shaft kits for $30-35. They are listed as," Double-end ball bearing mandrels". They come in 1/2" and 5/8", go with the heavier shaft.
http://cgi.ebay.com/BENCH-BUFFING-P...hash=item260259264366&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318

The whole cost to make one, including making a strong base, should run less than $100.
Stacy
 
Mine's a cheap bench grinder with the guard taken off on one side. It's only a 1/3rd hp and has been going strong for 15 years,a good portion of that buffing gun barrels for reblueing. The smaller motor teaches you to use a light touch.
 
HF sells few different models. All are 3600 RPM which makes some folx uncomfortable.
I've been using one for 3 years with 0 ill effects . The buffer safety boils down to :

- stay alert
- don't present edges into the wheel
- buff blade's side in 2 settings - upper and lower "strips"
- use non-grabby :) wheels
- hold the blades well
- sharpen 'em at the _very_ end. Buffing a razor sharp blade is asking for trouble
- use good abrasive/polishing compound . With such compound you don't have to lean into the wheel to get cutting/polishing action going.
- eye protection (me likes full face masks)
 
I have a cheap HF model just like Rashid - I learned on those 1/3HP 3450 jobs and I've never had a chance to use the slower Baldor buffers. Safety is the most important thing in my book, I don't want to lose control of a blade at 1700 RPM either.

In addition to what Rashid said, you might consider a heavy shop apron (one that can be tied and not left lose) and standing to the side of the buffer when working on it.
 
I have 3400 rpm beach grinders from 1/2 to 3/4 HP. I do want to have extension shafts for them all. I have taps on order to make my own. PAY ATTENTION #1 keep edges corners and tips from being into up steam side of wheel. The remark about 2 stips being so very very true #2 Hang on firmly. #3 sharpen after buffing Get your knife completely finished before you sharpen it. If you must for testing. Bite the bullet and dull the edge before working more. It is much easier to resharpen than to reattach and sew up body parts and holes!
 
Also, work the bottom half of the buff so that if it does grab the knife it throws it toward the floor instead of your face/chest.

Allen
 
Good advice.

I think I'll try building one. I think there's an old motor at my work I can have if I just ask.

Last question is what compound do I buy for polishing wooden handles?
 
sierra11b said:
Good advice.
I think I'll try building one. I think there's an old motor at my work I can have if I just ask.
Last question is what compound do I buy for polishing wooden handles?
Click to expand...
I am not sure about which compound to use but do not do what I did. Use
a different wheel for each compound you use! I mixed compounds once!
It was ugly!!! :eek: :grumpy:
 
I'll think I'll try Briwax like Koster or Beeswax for that gripy feel considering I'll be making mostly kitchen knives.
 
I personally use this buffer. It's 1 HP and probably made in the same exact place as the Baldor Buffer.

It's made by JET which is also a reputable company and the shafts are much longer than the Baldor one and is cheaper!

http://www.amazon.com/Jet-577110-JSB-10L-10-Inch-Buffer/dp/B00062NEXW

You can get the optional stand as well with or without purchasing all at once.

It's cheaper and 75 RPM slower (Which I like). There is really no reason why one needs a 3600 RPM or even an 1800 RPM Buffer. The slower it is (to a point) the more you can do something right. Depending on the buffing compound you have on there, you probably won't want a buffer that is super fast.

The buffer is probably the most dangerous tool one can have that can go wrong if you're not super careful with it.
 
Eric - buy an 8" buffer from HF. There's a 15% off coupon out in recent flyer (I haven't seen it yet, but google for it, some forums such as fatwallet.com, slickdeals.net post scanned coupons). That, a sale and some sweet talking should get you a very decent, brand new and robust buffer for around $50
If you can search in this forum, look for my posts -in one of them I asked a very well known maker for advice on buffing wheels and compounds. I bought what he recommended and it is very good. Wheels especially are the best, don't grab at all.
 
There seems to be a little confusion here about speeds. 1800 and 3600 RPM buffers are both really useful, but for different things.
If you want to mirror finish-and I mean REALLY mirror finish, there is no substitute for a 3600 RPM buffer that can turn a 10" or larger wheel. You need the speed and power to move the metal around on the blade. That's what mirror finishing is all about. Moving metal results from heat which is generated bu friction from the wheel and pressure applied to the wheel.

Having said that, 3600RPM buffers stink for satin finishing with coarser compounds, working natural handle materials, etc. This is where the 1800 RPM machines are great-You can satin finish a blade with 240 grit water based compound and get a nice even finish without overheating or trashing your grinds. You can buff wood without burning it. And, they are safer when working inside finger grooves, etc. But the 1800 RPM machine will never give the quality of mirror finish that a 3600 RPM machine will.

And, don't forget power-I like 3/4 HP minimum for the 1800 RPM machine, 1 1/2 HP for the 3600 RPM machine.

If I only had one, I'd get a 1 HP 1800 RPM with a 3/4" shaft (minimum).

Building your own is a great option, but spend the money to get a bigger motor.

Just my 2 cents after running buffers daily for over 30 years.
 
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