Buffer

[richstag]

Thanks again guys.

DWRW - I gave it a try on my machete. I raised a burr with the belt sander and moved to the buffer. I could not completely remove the burr. I tried for about an hour.

I think I need a different type of wheel.

I did not have any problems holding onto the knife but I will tell you that I was very aware of what was going on thanks to the warnings.

Anyhow, I am still in the pursuit of the correct combo to go from belt sander to buffer to DONE!!!

Sounds good to me.

 

[DWRW]

As far as blades go, a machete is probably about one of the safest blades to buff as it has a tall flat blade surface.

The shorter the blade height, the more prone the buffer is to catching a blade by the spine.

Folders = a tool design made for chopping your finger off with a buffer.

I still recommend finding a belt for you belt sander that removes the burr. And still don't recommend the buffer. But, a buffer "With a compound" should remove the burr..... or at least "Move" the burr around. ???

But, again, I recommend sticking with a belt sander and NOT using a buffer.

One trick I have OFTEN used with my belt sander is to turn a used belt inside out and put compound on the inside of the belt. = cheap and convenient. It works pretty well and better than a buffer. But, the right belts are still best.

Unfortunately, if you belt sander is like mine and has a very rounded convexed wheel, your used belts get concaved when turned inside out.

Anyway, if you don't already have good quality compounds, the ones sold by the knife suppliers are probably best. I get mine from DLT.

If you have 320 or so grit paper, you don't need green on a belt sander. And you sure don't use black (to aggressive). Black and green are good for hand/manual stropping, but with 320 grit or finer and the speeds on a belt sander, I often just use white and call it a day (with a mirror edge that push cuts most anything. But, pink (finer than white) would be good to.

I have purchased compounds from other places, but I have been happiest (so far) with the compounds I purchased from DLT: http://www.dlttradingcompany.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=compound&osCsid=64ec14e93d4584db1532ea647cba12d5

DLT doesn't have the pink anymore. But, it is around.

Not to mention I have seen some diamond pastes down to 1 micron, 0.5 micron, 0.25 micron and even 0.1 micron!

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For a 1"x30" belt sander, you can pick up a leather belt for about $14.95 here: http://www.thewoodcraftshop.com/store/c/602-A-Power-ful-Way-to-Sharp-Tools-.html.

I have seen 1"x42" belts for $14.25 here: http://trugrit.com/belts1.htm


Leather belts with compound (or even dry) are VERY good ways to remove the final burr and to polish the edge much more effective and much safer than a buffer.

Also, belt sanders spin at about half the speed of a buffer. So: Better control, safer, less heat build-up, etc.

.

 

[richstag]

I could see the burr move from side to side. It was slowly being removed but I know something was wrong. Richard J got me onto the idea of beltsander to buffing wheel.

I know how to use a hand strop and all that. The leather belt sounds good also. I really don't want a polished edge though. Just the finish I get with the belt I use without a burr The way I finish them by hand with a diamond stick and ceramic stick they push cut newspaper without being pushed

Thanks again for your help! I appreciate it.

 

[DWRW]

I could see the burr move from side to side. It was slowly being removed but I know something was wrong.....

I was kind of thinking.....

Richard J got me onto the idea of beltsander to buffing wheel.

I don't know Richard J. I don't mean to contradict someone else's advice. But,.... I am going to.

Just the finish I get with the belt I use without a burr

What grit belt are you finishing with???

And is your belt in good condition?

I don't often have too many issues with much burr left on my blade with most of the belts I have used.

But, short of hand stropping or the leather belts on the belt sander - my highest recommendation for fast and easy with best results, I recommend turning a belt inside out and using the back of a belt with compound.

If you already strop, I assume you have compounds.

And it sounds like you already have a belt sander.

You can use a new belt backwards BTW. It won't hurt the belt to turn it inside out and put compound on the back. It will still work like new when turned back face out. :thumbup:

Might give that a try. The back of a belt with a compound similar to white will knock the burr right off.... and it will start to polish if you keep using it.



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Again, I don't know about "Richard J", but I do know about "J. Neilson":

See: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TLjFjT4vYsM :thumbup: :thumbup:

.

 

[richstag]

I like the results from a worn out 120 that I have sharpened a set of three tractor blades with first So whatever I find laying on the floor:thumbup::thumbup:

Seriously though...a used 120 grit belt does the trick for me. I LOVE the results I get with 120 to diamond stick to ceramic stick. It lasts LONG too. All that I was looking for was a use for this buffer I found. It sounded like a nice idea.

I read a lengthy article about sharpening that has microscope photos and they look into the various techniques. They put two step buffing right next to leather as far as quality. It is a very interesting article. http://www.bushcraftuk.com/downloads/pdf/knifeshexps.pdf