Buffing Compound Question

I really use alot of green, the buffs I have are hard sewn (I think thats the spiral sewn), they grab alot less than the fluffy ones. I have black and white compound but can really see any reason to use them. I even a buffer for just black and white and it just sits there. I guess if you are doing some really fine work white would be needed.
 
Patrick, the white is suppose to do as good a job as the green chrome without the greenish tint on lighter materials.

Patrice
 
patrice im new and learning but what ive learned my self so far is one buffing wheel for one color compound to do the buff proper. I switch and will build another buffer soon with a double . To really do it right you should have 5 different buffing wheels white green and black for metals and white and brown for wood. Im finding that the brown leaves a blackness on maple so i switch. I also some times only usethe off white and green on metal. samona uses numbers to describe what each number represents as far as polishing on metals goes. I use the compound from rob at ranger you will not be dissappointed if you order it in the green block and get the brown for wood as well very good.This is what my last knife buffed out like . kellyw
HPIM0794.jpg
 
Buffing compounds vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and vary greatly in grit size quality control. The general rule is you get what you pay for. In knife making, we usually are not trying to get an optical polish, so it doesn't matter as much. The color is sort of the guide. The darker the color, the coarser the grit. Black is emery, and is a cutting pre-polish of coarse grit. Gray is finer, then brown,cream, green, pink, white. The pink and white leave very little residue and are good on wood. The green is good for general purpose ( once the finish is fine enough to buff) and green is best for stainless steels.
Here is an excellent site on buffing and all things related. I would read it all,and save this site, since it has a lot of useful info:
http://www.metalfinishingsystems.com/tt-buffing.html

Stacy
 
Patrice - I suggest calling Pop and telling him what you're up to, he will have good advice. It's my feeling that you need green and white - white is just too fine to do all of the work on. I've never used black, but it's a very coarse compound and my feeling is that you should have the scratches out before you get to the buff.
 
If you want a complete (and I mean a complete) buffing system, get in touch with RW Wilson http://www.rwwilsonknives.com/buffing.html This will put you in business from jump street and it is the quickest, easiest way to go from raw metal to a mirror finish...
He sells everything you need in one package. Some of the best finishes I have ever seen started using his system. It works.
 
Caswell plating sells all the compounds and buffs . They have the tightest spiral sewn wheels I have found . I use the black , green , and white . White mostly for the woods . Black leaves a cloud in S.S. but the green removes the cloud and brings up the luster .
 
I use the Matchless cut and color black on a silsa wheel for a nice satin finish.
 
Thanks for all the links, some very good info there. I will email Pop as you suggested to get his input on this.

Patrice
 
Thanks guys, I when you use the contact us button on the top bar the page contains an invalid email. I'll mention it to him.

Patrice
 
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