Buffing handles

H

hellgap

Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
1,189
Well i just finished another blade i bought im sure ill get the hang of better and better.This one is really nice ASIAN IRON WOOD it sanded up real nice i stopped at 600 grit i have 1000 and 1500 grit but i think thats good enough. Now i bought some white handle polish from Rob and im wondering do i oil the handle then buff it with the polish or do i buff with the polish then oil the handle. I will oil it with TRUE OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH . So whats order do i buff???????? thanks kellyw
 
Buff then oil. After that, buff again with just a plain soft cloth.
 
If you use a buffer please either do it before the blade is sharp or duct tape something like a piece of leather over the edge. I would sand it to the 1500 and use a soft clean buff. Gently
 
If you are going to use Tru Oil gunstock finish, that needs to be put on RAW WOOD. There can be nothing else on the handle to inhibit the oil penetration.
If you are using any type of buffing compound, this will fill the wood's grain and will not let the Tru Oil penetrate into the wood.
If you have gone as high as you are going to go with sanding, then lightly dampen the handle - just a LITTLE! Just damp - NOT wet.
This will raise some of the wood's grain that you actually pressed DOWN into the surface as you sanded.
Let it dry.
Rub it off with some 0000 steel wool.
Do it again.
Do this three or four times until no more wood fibers RAISE when you slightly dampen it.
Run in some of the Tru Oil, just putting a light coat on the wood with your wet fingr tip.
Hang it up and let dry for the better part of the day.
Lightly rub this out with 0000 steel wool.
Repeat.
Repeat.
Repeat until you are pleased with the depth of the finish.
Top coat with Tru Oil gunstock wax.
Forget the buffing.
 
I am sure that Karl is right if you put on any oil. When I said a soft clean buff I mean one with no compound. He is also correct about raising the grain by damping also. His point about buffing compound and handle material is so true about many materials and once it gets in about the only way to get it off is sand it out. I have a hippo ivory handle I did early on and it had some small natural cracks. They became black lines because I was ignorant.
 
Karl B. Andersen said:
If you are going to use Tru Oil gunstock finish, that needs to be put on RAW WOOD. There can be nothing else on the handle to inhibit the oil penetration.
If you are using any type of buffing compound, this will fill the wood's grain and will not let the Tru Oil penetrate into the wood.
If you have gone as high as you are going to go with sanding, then lightly dampen the handle - just a LITTLE! Just damp - NOT wet.
This will raise some of the wood's grain that you actually pressed DOWN into the surface as you sanded.
Let it dry.
Rub it off with some 0000 steel wool.
Do it again.
Do this three or four times until no more wood fibers RAISE when you slightly dampen it.
Run in some of the Tru Oil, just putting a light coat on the wood with your wet fingr tip.
Hang it up and let dry for the better part of the day.
Lightly rub this out with 0000 steel wool.
Repeat.
Repeat.
Repeat until you are pleased with the depth of the finish.
Top coat with Tru Oil gunstock wax.
Forget the buffing.
Click to expand...


Great info.....
 
I emailed karl and told him the wood was stabilized he told me buff then intead of the other way is for non stabilized wood. I made a thread to show it knife # 4 . kellyw
 
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