Store the buffs in labeled zip lock bags. While on the buffer and not in use, slip a large bag over the buff to keep grit from settling on the buff.
Now, as someone who buffs things for a living, here is what most people don't consider - You need a separate buff for every grit if you want a flawless polish. Even then, a mirror polish will get scratches on any soft metal like brass, nickel, silver, gold, unhardened steel, etc. Anything moving across the surface will leave lines behind it - including the buff. Pushing hard while buffing makes it worse. This is why a satin finish is far better.
In you scenario, if you used the same wheel on your buff, it has 220 grit, 600 grit, 2000 grit, and who knows what else imbedded in the threads. You can't rake or clean all of it out. You can get most by severely raking it, but some coarser grit will undoubtedly remain. Even if you use separate buffs, unless you carefully cleaned the blade and anything that was in contact with a coarser grit ( like your hands) you may contaminate the next wheel. This can be taken to an extreme in aerospace industries, but for knifemakers, just try and keep things clean.
Finally - all grits are much harder than the metal being buffed ... especially if it is a soft metal like brass/nickel. Yes, 2000 grit is just as hard as 220 grit!
The tendency is to load more and more polish on the buff to make it cut better and faster ... bad idea. The polish just clumps up on the threads and creates large balls of polish that simulate giant grit particles. Your 2000 grit polish may create 100 grit clumps. This is what you are removing when you rake a buff. If you use just the right amount of polish and just the right amount of pressure, the buffing will go well. Using one factor to compensate for a lack of the other will not help.
I almost hesitate to mention this, but buff speed is also a factor. When buffing metal, the faster the surface sped, the better the shine ... because it will require less pressure as it delivers more "strokes" . In knifemaking this is a very big problem, as increased speed greatly creates increased danger.
Also, the motor power is a factor. The more power, the bigger the buff it can spin, and the harder the pressure allowed ( for industrial tasks where pressure is needed). As before, in knifemaking this is not a desired thing. The more power, the harder it is to control or hold on to the blade. It also throws the blade even more violently when it does grab ( and it WILL!). In many knife shops you will see 1HP double shaft buffers throwing 12" buffs. In industry they go up to 5HP and 36" buffs. Leave all those to the pros who know how to buff and wear the proper safety gear. In industry, most buffing personnel have to wear full chain mail and other trauma protections.
I always tell new makers that a slower and less powerful buffer is safer. 1/2 to 3/4HP is plenty enough and a 6" buff is all an untrained person should use in a knife shop.
