Buffing supplies and techniques

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Jul 7, 2013
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Please set me straight on the many buffing wheels and compounds available. Sewn, loose, muslin, cotton, sisal, etc. There are also a variety of compounds, on one of the suppliers site there are three different green chrome and two whites. What is your optimal set up for polishing handles and blades? Why is a 1800 rpm preferred to a 3600 rpm buffer? Thanks in advance!
 
this will be good for me too as I acquired a very nice (like new) Baldor 1800 RPM buffer
I just purchased different compounds to try out.

The only think I can say definitively is that the 1800 is just much safer for me, I have a 3600 RPM at work and it's simply too fast.

I found this site and there's a lot to read here -

http://www.schaffnermfg.com/engineers.php
 
I won't go into it again, but suffice to say that the buffer is probably the most dangerous tool in the shop. It is not a novice tool at all. There is very a real reason industrial buffer operators wear chain mail aprons. One of our well known makers, Gordon Dempsey, just died from a buffer accident last fall. Several others have predeceased him in the same type accident.

Do some reading on buffer danger and safety here:
https://cse.google.com/cse/publicurl?cx=000051236030827549219:_i6taktwi50
 
I just call Pop at Pop's Knife Supplies and ask him what I need for "X" task. I'm not a big fan of buffing, and for years refused to get one because of the aforementioned safety concerns, but there comes a time when you can't avoid it anymore. I don't think that Pop makes many (any?) knives anymore, but when he did, they were incredibly clean, and highly finished knives in that traditional guild style, with clean, sharp lined, mirror polished blades, and "wet" looking handles you couldn't find a whisper of a seam or scratch on.


For the tasks I asked for supplies, he definitely knew what worked, and he works with many makers, and knows what works for them also. I don't think you could go wrong giving him a call. Also, let me be clear: *Call* him, do not email. Let him know what you're doing (i.e. handles, blades, fitting, whatever, and which materials they're made from). From my perspective, if you use the buffer for a lot of tasks, you're going to need more than one buffer, and various wheels and compounds.
 
Thanks a bunch to you all. This forum is so good for the feedback as I piece it together for learning and a safer tomorrow.
Thanks.
 
In general you will want stiffer buffs (spiral sewn or sisal) for polishing hardened blades along with a 600 and 1000/1500 grit rouge. I use white rouge in both grits.

Polishing of handle materials follow the same sequence of grits and generally only need a quick touch with 600 grit rouge to produce a shiny polished finish. Also, again, I use white rouge in order not to darken my handles.

In short, I'd recommend spiral sewn cotton buffs (fairly stiff) with a grit progression from 600 to 1000 or 1500 white rouge for almost all general purposes.

Please note that I do not polish to any where a near a mirror finish and I only touch my handles and blades on the buffer for less than a minute or two to finalize a hand finish or knock the wire edge off of a sharpened blade.

If you have handles with metal finishings such as bolsters, guards, or pommels then it is a good idea to buff the handle first and then move to the metal pieces next. Some metals such as nickel-silver and brass impart a dark (black) color to the rouge and buff which can then be transferred to delicate handle materials.
 
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i have a 3600 rpm, and a baldor 1800 rpm 1/4 hp. for a new buffer user, get the 1800 rpm. to me it seems the 3600 puts 3x more pull on the knife, you have to grip it tightly or it rips it out of your hands. keep your elbows tightly pinned to the sides of your waist. the 1800 rpm is much more relaxing because you do not have to hold on with all your strength. put an empty cardboard box between the back of the buffer, and the wall. it will cut down on the ricochet speed and damage to the knife if it gets away from you.
 
listen to Stacy , flying blades are a bad deal and never put a sharpened blade to a buffing wheel
 
Buffing is a skill in itself. It isn't like grinding. If you grind wrong, you mess up the blade. If you buff wrong, the blade goes flying. I never met a person who buffs who hasn't lost control of an item at one time or another.

Slower speed, lower horsepower, smaller buffs, spiral sewn wheels, hard sisal wheels, proper stance and grip, protective clothing, buffer safety procedures, and planning for where a thrown object will bounce/land are al important ways to lessen the risk......but make no mistake - buffers are dangerous tools.

1/4HP buffers running at 1800RPM, throwing 5-6" wheels are relatively safe, and a good starter system. Professional buffers for mirror polishing are 1HP and throw 10-12" buffs. They are not the place to learn.

One problem with learning to buff is that those who do it all the time are the worst ones to watch and learn from. They do things that aren't really good practice, but their skill and experience allow it. The same things done by a novice can be disastrous.






I like to give comparisons from the past, and this one will not mean much to anyone younger than 50-60:
Watching pro buff does not mean you can do it yourself.
Colonel Larson (The Marlin Man ) used to shoot cigarettes from peoples lips and shoot the ace out of a card being held in someone's hand....but that doesn't mean you should get your 22 and try it in the back yard with your little brother.

For the trivia buffs, Colonel Larson was his real name. He was actually a physicist. He contracted polio, and was paralyzed. He lived, miraculously, and was left weak and shaking. He practiced hand and muscle control and took up shooting to regain his strength, balance, and coordination. The rest, as they say, is history.
 
Michael,
Thanks for the details, your beautiful knives and your immaculate shop are both inspiring. When you are talking compound progression, what colors are 600, and 1000?
As a beginner I have found that there are many ways to do all task in the process of making a knife. Through trial and error I also have found that it is helpful to have a system in place that you can follow for each task. There are so many finishing materials to choose from that it can be overwhelming. Your description of of a sewn cotton buff and compound progression is exactly what I was looking for.
Woodster - I now have a cardboard box behind my buffer, thanks for your comments.
Stacy - most importantly, I shared your advice on safety, and the tragedy that happened with my two young sons. It opened their eyes as well. Thanks!
 
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one thing I've noticed not mentioned yet , Approach the buff below the center line of the buff , if it does grab the blade it will throw away and down .
 
Michael,
Thanks for the details, your beautiful knives and your immaculate shop are both inspiring. When you are talking compound progression, what colors are 600, and 1000? . . .

Bill,

Thanks for the nice comment on my knives and shop. Of course, my shop doesn't always look that tidy. I spent quite a few hours cleaning before taking those photos. :)

The 600 and 1000 grits that I mentioned are both white. I just checked and what I thought was 1000 white is actually Jackson 51 (white) which is about 1200 - 1400 grit. The Jackson 600 white is what I think is their "CR" version. Again, I only do light buffing so these may not be the best compounds for progressing to anywhere near a mirror finish.

Good Luck,

Mike
 
Any of you guys use carnauba wax on your handles?

Also, I'd be interested in hearing some of you guy's methods for finishing/buffing exotic woods. For box elder I've been taking up to 2000 grit, then buffing with green chrome, then rub in bees wax, and finally buff with a wheel with no abrasive. It's been working good but I'm wondering if I shouldn't add in the carnauba wax into the process...
 
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