Buffing white wood

[hellgap]

I really mean buffing light colored wood . How does a person get away without staining the wood from the buffing compound .Even stabilized wood will suck up some compound and make it look dirty sorta speak maple is really hard to buff to a high polish ,amboyna and Im sure spalted beech anf sycamore will be alot like them. I just had to resand from 300 to 600 to get the crap out then I wiped tung oil on the handle and Im going to coat it 3 or 4 times then just buff by hand to a glossy shine . Does that seem like a good way to do this ??

 

[JasonSCarter]

Stop using your metal sandpaper on your wood... Seriously go get 3M Sandblaster paper it's made for wood and non staining. It also lasts a LONG time and you can use it on your metal in a pinch to your process sounds good.

Jason

 

[v-6]

Hellgap , have you tried johnson paste wax after you put your tung oil on. i sand the tung oil off with 0004 steel wool and wipe it off with tack cloth and then wax and hand buff. vern

ps: jasoncarter is right about the metal sandpaper .

 

[Phillip Patton]

Sometimes you can use a solvent to get the buffing compound out of the pores, or use white compound and a clean buffing wheel.

This a problem that always bothered me, and is one of the reasons why I mostly use dark woods now.

 

[hellgap]

I am using metal paper for wood but the staining is when I buff . The wax or compound stains the wood even stabilized like my last piece of amboyna for example had big greassy lines of compound in the pores so I wiped it with acetone and resanded back to 600 and wiped tung oil on it and it seems ok but I want the glossy depth like after hard buffing.