Building a grinder and looking for wheels?

T

Thadbow

Joined
Sep 23, 2013
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42
I am looking to buy a good set of wheels all the way around my new grinder, including two for the platen and an 8" contact wheel. Also, is there pros or cons to serrated vs. poly contact wheels?
Thanks
 
I'd buy them from either beaumont metal works or usaknifemaker. I only have serrated and it's worked well for me.
 
Wheel serrations facilitate aggressive grinding, but either type of wheel can get the job done. I got my 10" wheel with my grinder from beaumont metal works and my 1/2" wheel from usaknifemaker.
 
I would plan to get a minimum 10" wheel but even 14". I found that a plain wheel worked better for me overall and especially for finishing sizes of belts, and that's what I went for when I bought the 10" one 10 or 12 years ago. Frank
 
What are your most dominant decision making criteria? What order would you put parameters like the following in?

  • Cost is a factor
  • Superb functionality is important
  • Need large wheel diameter for shallow hollow grinds
  • Longevity and abrasion resistance of the composition of contact wheel surface (rubber or polyurethane)
  • Weight of wheel—light for ease of handling/changing (aluminum) or heavy/solid (steel)
If cost is a driving factor some folks have purchased the Grizzly grinder 10" replacement contact wheel, bored it out and installed bearings. Others have looked at Sunray and the poly wheels rather than rubber.
 
Great information guys, thanks.
I want to build this the best I can the first time around. You are right, I should of put at least a 10" contact wheel in my original post! I looked at USAknifemaker and Beaumont and they both have a great selection. I am wondering where I will get the best bang for my buck and if there is anywhere else I should be looking?
Thanks again!
 
Beaumont, Bader, USA Knifemaker.....all will sell you good wheels. Good wheels are not cheap, but they are worth the cost, IMHO.
 
Username Post: $20 Home Made 2x2 belt Idler Wheel (Topic#928606)
DonFG

12-31-12 05:29.03 - Post#2521459
Got a Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder and have been destroying some HR1095 lately. Looking at the 2x72 grinders and will build one in the future. So in the meantime looking for parts along the way and thought I would share this.

I don't have a lathe & I don't want to spend for a new idler wheel if I don't have to.

Here is what I did.

1 piece: 2" OD x 1.75" ID aluminum pipe
1 piece: 1.75" OD x 1.5: ID aluminum pipe

1.5" x .5" sealed ball bearing

6" cutoff saw and wheels - did not need to buy

I ended up mounting the 6" cutoff wheel in my table saw. Next time buy larger cutoff wheel.

Cut 2" pipe a little over size to like 2.125", check ends for flatness and grind if needed.

Cut 1.75" pipe to a little over 1", check ends for flatness and grind down to 1".

Place a bearing over the 2" pipe and tap in with a block of wood.
Flip the pipe over and tape in the 1.5" x 1" pipe
Now tap the other bearing in place.
Remember to use a block of wood to keep from nicking the metal

Total cost is about $20 per roller

I probably should have used a lip bearing but I'll try this out.

I get some new steel in next week and will post a result if I don't mangle it beyond recognition.
med_1356974560-2012-12-30_15.07.59.jpg

med_1356974610-2012-12-30_15.11.16.jpg

med_1356974648-2012-12-30_15.12.22.jpg
Click to expand...

1 piece: 2" OD x 1.75" ID aluminum pipe
1 piece: 1.75" OD x 1.5: ID aluminum pipe

1.5" x .5" sealed ball bearing


If the OD of the outer sleeve is 1.750" and the ID of the bearing is 1.500"

It's not going to fit like that.

Maybe it's 2" OD x .250 wall thickness which is 1.500" ID aluminum tubing



What bearing number would that be?
You should probably start there

http://www.fastenal.com/web/product...pcode=&filterByStore=&filterByVendingMachine=
but they are $15 each and I can't figure out a standard nomenclature for that size
 
12345678910 said:
1 piece: 2" OD x 1.75" ID aluminum pipe
1 piece: 1.75" OD x 1.5: ID aluminum pipe

1.5" x .5" sealed ball bearing


If the OD of the outer sleeve is 1.750" and the ID of the bearing is 1.500"

It's not going to fit like that.

Maybe it's 2" OD x .250 wall thickness which is 1.500" ID aluminum tubing



What bearing number would that be?
You should probably start there

http://www.fastenal.com/web/product...pcode=&filterByStore=&filterByVendingMachine=
but they are $15 each and I can't figure out a standard nomenclature for that size
Click to expand...

The post isn't mine, but...

Its two pieces of tubing pressed together. 2" OD x 1.75" ID with a 1.75"OD x 1.50" ID pressed inside the other. But a 2"OD x 1.5"ID would be easier if you can find .250 wall tubing cheap...

My Fastenal guy behind the counter has always been able to find a bearing by size alone. May just ask if you have a local storefront.

I just ran across that and thought about giving it a whirl to see if it works. Haven't tried it yet...

-Eric
 
LucyCustomKnives said:
The post isn't mine, but...

Its two pieces of tubing pressed together. 2" OD x 1.75" ID with a 1.75"OD x 1.50" ID pressed inside the other. But a 2"OD x 1.5"ID would be easier if you can find .250 wall tubing cheap...

My Fastenal guy behind the counter has always been able to find a bearing by size alone. May just ask if you have a local storefront.

I just ran across that and thought about giving it a whirl to see if it works. Haven't tried it yet...

-Eric
Click to expand...

med_1356974560-2012-12-30_15.07.59.jpg


The small size tube is just there to spacer the bearings apart.
It removes the need to lathe turn the shoulder.
See the difference in length of the smaller tube ?



The bearing is supposed to fit the large tube.
med_1356974610-2012-12-30_15.11.16.jpg




I did find that Fastenal part number, but they are $15 each = a pair is $35 ish with tax and it's not cheap anymore
http://www.fastenal.com/web/product...pcode=&filterByStore=&filterByVendingMachine=


A standard bearing size could be a third of that.

It's a nice idea, but needs more work on sizes
 
In a case like that, what would keep the pipe from walking off the bearing? They would be spinning at a significant rpm. I'd hate for it to shoot off the side. The arbor would only hold the bearings.

I'm a plumber, so I've been thinking about PVC pipe for small wheels. 1-1/2" PVC is 1.5 I.d. With just shy of 2" o.d.

I know wilmont offers PVC wheels with the little buddy, but I believe they are machined from solid bar stock. At least they appear to be.

Unfortunately, I'm so far away from having a working grinder, it's only thoughts.
 
Lethal289 said:
In a case like that, what would keep the pipe from walking off the bearing? They would be spinning at a significant rpm. I'd hate for it to shoot off the side. The arbor would only hold the bearings.

I'm a plumber, so I've been thinking about PVC pipe for small wheels. 1-1/2" PVC is 1.5 I.d. With just shy of 2" o.d.

I know wilmont offers PVC wheels with the little buddy, but I believe they are machined from solid bar stock. At least they appear to be.

Unfortunately, I'm so far away from having a working grinder, it's only thoughts.
Click to expand...


The pressed fit holds the bearing on.

If it's good, it will hold.



I suspect that the pvc wheels are cast to shape.
 
I've seen moderately high speed (please don't ask how fast :o ) bearings pressed into steel pipe roll for years without issues. That's on, oh, approximately 50 examples or so. Seems everything else around it has problems (old factory technology at its best), but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.

I'd try it if you could get the cost down enough. On the other hand, my experience is observation only. I didn't make them myself.

My father also installed wheel bearings on my 77 Datsun 280Z using the oven and freezer in liu of a press. Just throwing that out there, may not be applicable at all.
 
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