Burning in the tang?

[deloid]

If a wood handle is drilled out to approximate a tang in length but smaller in thicknes and width, will the red hot tang burn it's own "space" to allow for epoxy and pinning?

Thanks!

 

[jdm61]

If a wood handle is drilled out to approximate a tang in length but smaller in thicknes and width, will the red hot tang burn it's own "space" to allow for epoxy and pinning?

Thanks!

Yes, but i have never tried it with anything harder or more expensive than curly maple or walnut.

 

[Keith_H]

It sounds interesting, but i wonder if it might crack.

 

[sunshadow]

I have done it on my historical replicas, it burns a bit beyond the tang, making afor a sloppy charcoal lined hole, not a problem if you are pouring in hide glue to secure the blade, I have had it crack a couple pieces of cherry, and it vents char ridden steam out of pores in the wood which will stain it, so be prepared to sand after burning, and of course don't even think of doing it with a tropical hardwood with toxic resin or on stabilized wood.

-Page

 

[deloid]

I wonder if a "vent" hole at the back end would help. That hole could always be plugged in any decoractive fashion.

If anything it would look worthy of a video clip

My main concern is the excess space but then I guess epoxy might help.

 

[deker]

I've done it and it does work, but I don't really recommend it for the reasons already listed above. Also, if you forget to do it before heat treat you can make trouble for yourself

-d

 

[deker]

I wonder if a "vent" hole at the back end would help. That hole could always be plugged in any decoractive fashion.

Usually I've only seen tangs burned in on stick tang knives with the end of the tang threaded for a pommel, thus, you have a hole all the way through already.

It makes a lot of white smoke and a heck of a stink too. You've been warned

-d

 

[Sam Salvati]

it works LOADS better if you drill out the handle first, then rough cut out the center bits, then burn it in for the final or close to final fit.