BURRRRRRRR REMOVAL

J

Jstanny88

Joined
Aug 21, 2018
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15
Ok first off let me say I’m not super experienced sharpening yet but I’m getting progressively better. I’ve learned a few different techniques from people on here and it has really helped me out. So I’ve got the KO with the blade grinder and it’s actually a pretty cool little machine. I use it for my work knives ( pig slaughterhouse). At first I hated the blade grinder but I was also using it wrong. I didn’t have the right combination of pressure when I was reprofiling to a different angle. I was being too light. So I’ve been stopping at a 120 grit belt... being a little aggressive at first and then finishing with very light passes to weaken the burr. Then I also have the stropping kit from work sharp. My question is how to just knock that burr off with the stropping belt because I can’t get it all the way off with the 120... and I kind of want a little toothier edge. It’s better for what I do than a super fine edge. Do I need to raise the angle when using the cloth stropping belt? Or just keep the same angle? How much pressure should I use? Do I barely even touch the strop? Or put a little pressure on it?

Any help would be awesome!!!

Thank you!!!
 
Can the motor run backward?

A few light leading passes on the same belt should do the trick, finish with one or two trailing passes to refine the deburred edge.

You might even use a piece of 120 grit belt glued to a board for the deburring/finishing phase.
 
I often use a ceramic rod... or HeavyHanded's Washboard (that he's too humble to mention) ;)... to debur the edge off the WorkSharp. Leaves whatever finish I desire... (coarse/fine/etc.)... 'cause I use it just enough to remove the burr.
 
I often use a SharpMaker as my deburring step after using the WSKO to sharpen a blade. I'm sometimes totally amazed at the HUGE burrs the slog off of the edge as I do edge leading strokes down the brown/grey SharpMaker stones.

You can minimize the burr by trying to eliminate it with each belt successively, as opposed to just letting it hang there. There are other techniques you can use, like drawing the blade through end grain wood, or cork, or compressed felt. I've had decent luck with corks. You might even try finishing by hand on a medium grit stone (like a 320 or so) doing edge leading strokes only. In fact, it's a good experiment to do so you will know how much better (if any) you can make the blade by hand, by carefully removing as much burr as possible.

Brian.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. All great suggestions! I’ve been watching a lot of YouTube videos and it looks like a lot of knife makers or pro sharpeners just hit the knife on one coarse belt and then go straight to a stropping belt or buffer. What I’m wondering is if I use a coarse belt and then go to the strop belt if it’s going to make my edge not toothy anymore
 
Jstanny88 said:
Thanks for the replies guys. All great suggestions! I’ve been watching a lot of YouTube videos and it looks like a lot of knife makers or pro sharpeners just hit the knife on one coarse belt and then go straight to a stropping belt or buffer. What I’m wondering is if I use a coarse belt and then go to the strop belt if it’s going to make my edge not toothy anymore
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You can't deburr on a 120 belt
 
I use rather coarse diamond stones on either Edge Pro (#150) or freehand (DMT coarse).
Often I can deburr enough just on these stones but in other times use very fine compound/stone LIGHTLY and just a few swipes to deburr like DMT coarse to DMT EEF.
This way I can keep the toothyness pretty much.

I don't know much about WSKO, but maybe you can try #120 to fine.
 
I know you can’t deburr on a 120 belt... I just use light passes to minimize the burr... I’m trying to deburr on the strop I’m just wondering if it’s going to keep my edge toothy or make it polished... I want to be able to cut through rough stuff
 
I've actually had god luck deburring most of the way on 120 belt. My machine is reversable, so once the second edge is done and burr in evidence I reverse the belt direction and make one slow pull across the belt at low speed.
This makes the edge 90% burr free. Normally I then microbevel on a fine waterstone and that's the 5 dollar edge. The waterstone eliminates the remaining burr and refines the apex.
I might pass it on a strop a few times (washboard) for good measure.

The waterstone only a handfull of passes, 10 at the most and another three on the strop. If its a chefs knife or similar and will be used more for pushcutting I'll double the number of microbevel passes.
 
What kind of machine do you have heav handled? I wish this one was reversible. But when I get a little better I may upgrade to a real grinder. If you’re facing the machine this one only turns away from you, not towards
 
Jstanny88 said:
What kind of machine do you have heav handled? I wish this one was reversible. But when I get a little better I may upgrade to a real grinder. If you’re facing the machine this one only turns away from you, not towards
Click to expand...

I have a harborfreight 1x30 with a dc motor attached. Sometimes I just turn the machine off and manually make a few swipes leading edge.

Avoid making big burrs in the first place. When working with bonded abrasives I always finish with a trailing pass after I deburr.

Sometimes I might take the edge right off the 120 and strop, but if I want a better quality coarse edge I use benchstones instead. Otherwise, a few light passes on finishing stone does a great job and edge still plenty rough.

This is one of those situations where even though the micro is at a less acute angle, the apex itself becomes thinner across. I leave most of the along edge variations with the micro eliminating a lot of the side to side extremes.
 
Oh sweet I actually looked at those. What’s your experience with it? Do you like it? I saw a couple people say they were afraid it was going to break or some shit and then I’ve seen people say it’s a good cheap sander. Deff prob more versatility than the work sharp. I was thinking about getting one of those and then a buffer and some paper wheels attached to it
 
Off the shelf they are not much fun. At top speed mine is about half the factory motor - fasy enough to do the odd primary grind reset and more than fast enough to sharpen. The biggest advantage is diamond belts in 1x30 are pretty cheap, but useless at factory motor speed. I was lucky and had a,motor that fit, or I would have gone a different route.
 
Jstanny88 said:
Thanks for the replies guys. All great suggestions! I’ve been watching a lot of YouTube videos and it looks like a lot of knife makers or pro sharpeners just hit the knife on one coarse belt and then go straight to a stropping belt or buffer. What I’m wondering is if I use a coarse belt and then go to the strop belt if it’s going to make my edge not toothy anymore
Click to expand...
Yep, that's the manner many makers do it. My experience echos HeavyHanded HeavyHanded , though I have no experience sharping on a motor driven belt.
I do the same on a stone and many like the edge coming off a 120 grit Norton stone. Yes, I remove the burr on that stone before moving on.
Trying not to strop the edge, because this does refine it and takes away some of the tooth. If done right that level edge will still cut paper and cut aggressively for a long time. That's for a general, utility edge. For a kitchen knife I'll take it to 280-320 grit as this knife will be used to push cut vegetables. Housewife's / cook's like this level. Still, nothing complicated one or two grit level sharpening. DM
 
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