Bushcraft Knife = Scandi Grind? wtf...

S

sambo.

Joined
Dec 30, 2009
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SPXTrader said:
A true Bushcraft has a Scandi grind.
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i chopped that quote out of another thread and i've seen a few other posts mention a similar attitude.

why does a "true" bushcraft knife have to be scandi ground?

no offence to SPXTrader, but i would never have thought to define a bushcraft knife simply by it's grind, but by it's overall design and functionality making it suitable for bushcraft use.

to my mind, a Fallkniven S1 or F1 (or even an A1) or a RAT RC-4 (or even an RC-6 for that matter) or similar knives would qualify as "bushcraft knives".
 
Scandi grinds are definitely preferred for bushcraft. It cuts really well with an acute 20 degree inclusive edge while remaining stiff and strong with all the metal behind the edge. Easy to sharpen freehand in the field w/o changing the edge angle too. I've used Scandi grinds @ 20 degrees and full-flat grinds @ 40 degrees and the Scandi cuts wood way better.
 
I thought most scandi's were around 12.5 degrees per side?

A scandi grind simply works, hard to explain until you have used one.
 
I think the term "bushcraft knife" has come to refer to a more specific type/style of wilderness knife use. When I first heard the term, I thought that it simply meant any knife suitable for camping/outdoor work.
The description of bushcraft that Sal Glesser wrote for the Spyderco bushcraft knife actually helped to clarify its meaning for me.
http://spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=431
 
PatriotDan said:
Sambo, do you "do" bushcraft?
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well, i spend a lot of time mucking around in the bush with a compound bow hunting pigs and other feral species.

i like to go camping. in fact, i often combine camping and bowhunting.

i'm trying not to take offence at your comment.
 
From my experience and understanding the scandinavian grind excels at carving wood. Many tasks associated with "bushcrafting" center around wood carving. I once tried to carve a spoon with a Becker Bk2. I didn't quit but it was a little more difficult. It's a lot more fun with a mora and a spoon knife. However, this is an extreme example.

Certainly other grinds are suitable for bushcraft tasks. The convex grind seems to be very popular, and certainly a flat grind with a thinner blade could work as well but when it comes to wood carving the scandinavian grind does not just work, it excels.
Examples: carving tent stakes, feather sticks, spoons, rabbit sticks, walking sticks, slingshots, etc. it's fun

Furthermore it is extremely easy to sharpen freehand in the field. I've never owned a convex knife but have read that there are very simple methods to sharpen these in the field as well. Personally I am not a very skilled sharpener but can get a scandi ground knife very sharp.

Maybe try out a mora (they're cheap and great $10-$20) and do some whittling, compare it to your other knives, see what you think...
 
I always wondered about that myself. I know that most knives labeled "bushcraft" have scandi grinds and it always seemed like "bushcraft" meant something different from general "camping" or "survival" knives. I thought the reason scandis aren't used more often in knives in general was because of how much easier it is to repair a damaged edge with a secondary bevel. Because of that, I would think that people in survival situations would want that type of security. But what the hell do I know about survival? I'm a city boy.
 
sambo. said:
i chopped that quote out of another thread and i've seen a few other posts mention a similar attitude.

why does a "true" bushcraft knife have to be scandi ground?

no offence to SPXTrader, but i would never have thought to define a bushcraft knife simply by it's grind, but by it's overall design and functionality making it suitable for bushcraft use.

to my mind, a Fallkniven S1 or F1 (or even an A1) or a RAT RC-4 (or even an RC-6 for that matter) or similar knives would qualify as "bushcraft knives".
Click to expand...

Actually I was wondering about it too and posted a thread some time ago

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7942703

What I came to realize is that when people talk about "bushcraft", the knife is usually not the only tool available to them (there is also an axe, saw, maybe even another knife). The typical use of "bushcraft knife" is wood carving and scandi grind is very good for such use.

After reading more on the subject I think that bushCarving might be a better term for such knives instead of bushcraft.
 
knifenut1013 said:
I thought most scandi's were around 12.5 degrees per side?

A scandi grind simply works, hard to explain until you have used one.
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The Mora is at 12.5 per side, but most of the classic designs have it at 10 per side. The woodlore is 10 per side, the leeuko's I've seen were 11 per side, most peuko's were at 10 as well.
 
sambo. said:
well, i spend a lot of time mucking around in the bush with a compound bow hunting pigs and other feral species.

i like to go camping. in fact, i often combine camping and bowhunting.

i'm trying not to take offence at your comment.
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Great. I commend you for the self discipline and restrain you're showing by not taking offense :D After all, it's the internet.

On another note, I agree with you, it's about the function and capability, not the grind.

And scandi grinds vary from 15 - 18 degree puukkos to 30 degree chopper type knives. Performance differences are big but all will certainly work well in bushcraft. Many people favor double bevel flat grinds and hollow grinds for bushcraft. Good for them.
 
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sambo. said:
i chopped that quote out of another thread and i've seen a few other posts mention a similar attitude.

why does a "true" bushcraft knife have to be scandi ground?

no offence to SPXTrader, but i would never have thought to define a bushcraft knife simply by it's grind, but by it's overall design and functionality making it suitable for bushcraft use.

to my mind, a Fallkniven S1 or F1 (or even an A1) or a RAT RC-4 (or even an RC-6 for that matter) or similar knives would qualify as "bushcraft knives".
Click to expand...


If you haven't tried a scandi grind before, get a cheap Mora and try it or borrow one from your hunting and camping buddies. That way you will form an opinion yourself. In my opinion, if you use your knife mostly for processing animals rather than fiddling around with wood, a scandi grind is not the best grind type.
 
I would take my CS Master Hunter full flat grind in 01 over any bushcraft scandi grind I have ever used or owned.(period) I would take a nice high flat ground bowie style or dropped point chopper with a nice thick spine over any Leuku I have ever owned too. I say this from using all of them in the woods chopping wood and stump shooting with my longbow for many many years. Just my opinion but these tools mentioned abover are what I have found work best for me. keepem sharp

PS On the Leuku's that I have owned in the past they tend wedge alot when splitting wood even when using a baton.
 
First, define what "Bushcraft" means to you. Think about it and buy several knives with various grindsto experiment with to further define what you need in a bushcraft knife. Borrow a few, lend a few, ask questions. Buy high end production versions, versions from promising makers, cheap knives, and keep practicing until you can bushcraft an arboreal mansion with a spoon you carved with a flint knapped mason jar bottom. Then sell all of your collection to learn which knife and grind is best for the next task you want to learn.
 
sambo. said:
why does a "true" bushcraft knife have to be scandi ground?
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I think part of the issue is the difference between a bushcraft knife, or a knife useful for typical bushcraft tasks and a Bushcraft knife, which has come to represent a certain style of knife which evolved from the small, handy outdoorsmen's knives of scandanavia such as the Puukko. Such knives have a set of common features, amoung which is a scandi grind.

Aside from that, a scandi grind is also considered by many as the preferred grind for a bushcraft knife in general, becuase the grind is particularly well adapted for woodworking, which is a major task for a knife when the user is practicing bushcraft skills.
 
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I don't get how a scandi grind is better at wood working? My MH will shave curlings as fine as any thing, bore a hole with the best of them and definetly cut meat and spread whatever a whole lot better. It will notch with aplomb too and gut and skin an animal and then butcher it with ease, and also it cuts soft tissue vegetables way better along with harder tubers and veggies. I have proved it time and again. Also takes bigger bites out of wood when needing firewood kindling etc. etc. Just sayin. keepem sharp
 
longbow said:
my CS Master HI would take unter full flat grind in 01 over any bushcraft scandi grind I have ever used or owned.(period) I would take a nice high flat ground bowie style or dropped point chopper with a nice thick spine over any Leuku I have ever owned too. I say this from using all of them in the woods chopping wood and stump shooting with my longbow for many many years. Just my opinion but these tools mentioned abover are what I have found work best for me. keepem sharp

PS On the Leuku's that I have owned in the past they tend wedge alot when splitting wood even when using a baton.
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Cold Steel in O-1?
 
According to the CSR at CS that is what I was told, I think I bought it in like 88 or 87 whichever year was the first issue. The finest hunting knife I have ever owned bar none. I keep talking about it so maybe I'll post a pic of it. keepem sharp

PS ya know if I could take a decent pic I'd crap myself. Anyways you get the idea. This truthfully hasn't been used in a while but it has been much used in the past. It is absolutely scary sharp almost like a semi convexed edge from stone sharpening it. Ok that's it thanks for listening
 
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