Bushcraft knife !

All three are great knives. I perfer Chris Reeves, and own a few along with bark river All a2 steel, which I perfer. Chris Reeve are tough one piece with a hollow handle for storage to back up items like fire starting equip in case you part from you main pack. I carry my Mountaineer II along with Victorinox Locksmith as my hiking/camping gear. I take my Project 1 Plain edge when I feel like I want to rough it, along with a Paxe and leather Charge TTi. When hunting I take my bark river game keeper, which is better than thicker blades of Reeve's knife for skinning and cut game. Some do not like handle of the Reeve's knives. I have workman hands and the knurling does not bother me, but does increase the ablity to hold the knife during wet environments. Extreme cold weather could be a problem, but living in a desert extreme cold weather is rare.
 
hollowdweller said:
My thoughts exactly on the choil thing.

I have a Swamp Rat Howling rat, a Ranger RD3.5 both with large choil notches and the area where the notch is is normall the area of the edge on a knife where you have the most leverage when deep cutting.

Try an experiment sometime.

Take a stick and hold it with your hand extended out in a flat plane with your arm. Then, trying to hold your wrist straight have someone push on the part of the stick nearest your hand while you try to keep them from moving your hand. Then have them grasp the part of the stick say 4" out from your hand and push.
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It appears I have a very different view when it comes to a choil. I like them for exactly the same reason you don't!

As long as the choil is of decent size I find them useful as you can shift your grip forward, putting your forefinger in the choil and the rest of your fingers on the forward half of the grip. You thus end up with the cutting edge ending right next to your finger giving maximum leverage and control.

This works well with the Street Scapper 4, the Manix (although unfortunately the edge stops short of the choil) and looks as if it will on the dayhiker if mine ever arrives :(
 
longbow50 said:
Yep, very nice. Always been a sucker for the ivory/faux ivory handles.
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Recently my taste has run in this direction, too. Fell in love with a White micarta Bravo-1 that was pictured in someone's post. Had to buy one for myself. Great looking knife.
 
I've found Bark River knives to be really great for bushcraft, camping, hunting, outdoors use.

My favorite for what you seem to want is the Canadian Special. It doesn't fit the "norm" for bushcraft looks, but is a wonderfully comfortable workhorse. Fits the hand well, firm grip in any circumstance (wet, goopy), may be excelled in a particular task by another blade shape, but does everything quite well indeed. You just can't stop it!
 
Hatari said:
I am reading all the posts of this forum and I hesitate between Bark River Knife, Chris Reeve and Fällkniven for a bushcraft knife.
All these knives are nice with a strong blade.
What would you choose for outdoor activities ?
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When I think of a Bushcraft knife I think straight away of Scandi ground blades !
A Scandi ground blade is the only type I am yet to own but I do have a Scandi grind Nessie about to be delivered and will then give my verdict !
Other than that I have to say that Convex edges rock when it comes to bushcraft as well !!!!
 
Can't go wrong with the Fallkniven F1. For BRKT I'd personally go with the Bravo-1.

The convex edge on these is awesome. I got the F! blank blade and am putting some stabilized maple scales on it. Some people like the rubber handles but I found they taper too much toward the end of the tang. It felt like my pinky had nothing to hold on to.

My S1 came with the rubber grips, I cut them off and am putting on some dyed and stabilized maple scales. Just waiting for the epoxy to dry so I can start shaping them.

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I also find the stock sheathes for Fallkniven and BRKT leave much to be desired. I like the JRE pouch sheathes.

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My vote is for the Busse ABALE. I use this knife for camping, hunting and general use.
I also have both the Bravo1 and F1 but always go back to the badger.
But thats just my 2 cents.....
 
I love my Stewart Marsh Bushcrafter. It is a flat grind knife. But the grind is not the most important factor. The handle just fits me like no other knife I own. The ivory Micarta must be the old non-UV stabilized type as it is yellowing with age

As far as grinds; The Nebula has a scandi grind that ends in a convex edge. Kinda the best of both worlds. I keep mine touched up on a a piece of cardboard charged with chromium dioxide that i keep in a ziplock bag. I also keep a part of the back side of my belt charged with the same paste and then cover it with a piece of duct tape. Keeping a sharp blade in the field is easy as pie. I use the same type of sharpeners on my hatchets, Golok, and bushcraft knives. I must say I find my Aurora, Nebula, Fallkniven A1, reprofiled Norlunds and other convex blades easier to sharpen in the field than my flat and V-grind knives.
 
Take a look at Doug Ritter's RSK Mk3. Its a great field/camp/survival knife!!!

rskmk3withsheathnr6.jpg


A 4.5" S30 high-grind blade with half finger guard. Sharpens easily with a something like a Sharpmaker and holds an edge amazingly long. Machined G-10 handle shaped for extended use and a broad range of hand sizes. Nylon/kydex sheath with multiple attachment points for molle and other systems.

Details: http://www.equipped.org/rsk_mk3.htm
 
kenk said:
Take a look at Doug Ritter's RSK Mk3. Its a great field/camp/survival knife!!!



A 4.5" S30 high-grind blade with half finger guard. Sharpens easily with a something like a Sharpmaker and holds an edge amazingly long. Machined G-10 handle shaped for extended use and a broad range of hand sizes. Nylon/kydex sheath with multiple attachment points for molle and other systems.

Details: http://www.equipped.org/rsk_mk3.htm
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"I was motivated by the thought of being able to recommend a lightweight fixed blade knife that I didn't have to make excuses for. There were very few lightweight fixed blades I could recommend and none without some reservations, particularly any that were affordable or on the smaller end of the size scale."

"The Doug Ritter RSK Mk3™ is available exclusively from Aeromedix.com. Suggested Retail Price is $175."



Uh, I can think of a lot of blades that would fit the bill and all of them under $175.
 
Sorry...

I was all ready to post, then I saw that Jaxx had already been here.

I have nothing of substance to add! :)
 
You know, sometimes I hate this forum.

I've just had to buy a Ritter RSK Mk3, and a Bark River Nebula. I've been watching them both for days, thinkin "no, I don't really need it..."

The things you make me do!!!

Please people, don't talk about knives that are on my short list. I really can't afford it any more.

All I'm missing now on my 'small knife' list is a Fallkniven...
 
Your list will never be finished. One goes off the list, two go on.....

It is our lot in life.
 
ilbruche said:
"I was motivated by the thought of being able to recommend a lightweight fixed blade knife that I didn't have to make excuses for. There were very few lightweight fixed blades I could recommend and none without some reservations, particularly any that were affordable or on the smaller end of the size scale."

"The Doug Ritter RSK Mk3™ is available exclusively from Aeromedix.com. Suggested Retail Price is $175."



Uh, I can think of a lot of blades that would fit the bill and all of them under $175.
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Umm, Mora 2000 + Wetterlings lrg. hunters axe + Victorinox Trekker SAK and I could still rathole a $100.00.
 
okbohn said:
Your list will never be finished. One goes off the list, two go on.....

It is our lot in life.
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Now that's the first thing I read that makes sense. It surprises me that there are still people who think they can choose between knives and be satisfied with their choice. One is not satisfied until all the knives your choosing from is in your collection. Then, it's time to move onto the next selection of choices.:D
 
If Mora 2000s and SAKs were all that we needed, then this forum would be short-lived and/or mighty boring.

Yes, the fixed Rittergrip costs more than some knives - many knives - mostly due to the decision to provide a S30V blade and the machined G-10 handle. I myself have found that this steel does indeed provide a very long lasting edge and with little or no concern about corrosion.

Keep in mind that the legendary folding Rittergrip - purchased and praised by lots and lots of knife users - costs $115. Suggesting that $165 (the real price) - $50 more than the folding Rittergrip - is somehow an absurd amount to pay for a larger, thicker fixed-blade version with a G-10 handle and a sheath is laughable.

Get off your low horse. Some of us enjoy the finer things in life.
 
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