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Bushcraft knife?
- Thread starter theedge13
- Start date
Immediately when I think bushcraft I think scrandi grind..
Only because it's extremely good at making feather sticks with hardwood...
So I can only imagine it kills at making anything with softer woods.
Take a look a kellam knives, as they sale some life lasting knives for under 100$
Only because it's extremely good at making feather sticks with hardwood...
So I can only imagine it kills at making anything with softer woods.
Take a look a kellam knives, as they sale some life lasting knives for under 100$
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2007
- Messages
- 9,786
Nothing wrong with a vanguard in my opinion. They were designed as a skinning knife and excel at that purpose. The blade length and drop point profile is highly versatile.
I've always had luck with Buck's 420HC even if it doesn't have the longest edge retention it certainly gets very sharp. They can also be had in more fancy steels like S30V via Cabellas.
Its not full tang, but the handle is comfortable and good looking too. The vanguard is certainly a good user and a great value for the money.
I've always had luck with Buck's 420HC even if it doesn't have the longest edge retention it certainly gets very sharp. They can also be had in more fancy steels like S30V via Cabellas.
Its not full tang, but the handle is comfortable and good looking too. The vanguard is certainly a good user and a great value for the money.
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2007
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- 890
The term "Bushcraft" knife gets thrown around a lot here, and one thing I've learned after looking around here over the last year is this. If you're particular knife is one that you are comfortable with using to perform the basic bushcraft activities of: 1. making fire and obtaining fuel for said fire, 2. making shelter, 3. aiding in getting safe drinking water, 4. obtaining and preparing food, 5. and making other tools to aid your survival; then, to me, it is a bushcraft knife. Even if it would not be one I find comfortable, but it is for you. Blade length, profile, grind, type of steel, etc. are all personal preferences. So, if you can make the knife sharp and useful in the field, I'd say go for it. And I think the Buck Vanguard could handle that.
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- Joined
- Mar 22, 2006
- Messages
- 5,944
Try it out see how you like it, for tasks you would consider to perform yourself in regard to bushcraft...YOur bound to find things you like and things you dislike about it.. tha's going to be a much more valuable than our opinions as to whether it is a good bush knife or not.. Personally I like buck knives I think there cost effective sharp and easy to keep that way with a strop.
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2000
- Messages
- 38
I believe a Buck Vanguard would work out OK as a bushcraft knife. However a knife specifically designed and made for bushcraft would be much better. Bushcraft skills can successfully be practiced with any well made blade, but a knife specifically designed for the task at hand makes life much easier.
I like Bucks although the vanguard is not a favourite that is more personal taste than any issue with the knife.
You don't need a skandi edge for bushcraft. I prefer one myself or at least a zero edge with no secondary bevel but there is nothing wrong with a good sharp secondary edge.
I have a slightly hollow ground Rosarms Companion2 that makes an excellent small bushcrafter and it has a secondary edge.
I am also just about to post a quick review here of a Scrapyard SS4 with a modded zero edge versus a very good skandi ,the Skookum Bush Tool. What I found is so long as you have a sharp edge a comfortable handle is much more important than the type of edge.
You don't need a skandi edge for bushcraft. I prefer one myself or at least a zero edge with no secondary bevel but there is nothing wrong with a good sharp secondary edge.
I have a slightly hollow ground Rosarms Companion2 that makes an excellent small bushcrafter and it has a secondary edge.
I am also just about to post a quick review here of a Scrapyard SS4 with a modded zero edge versus a very good skandi ,the Skookum Bush Tool. What I found is so long as you have a sharp edge a comfortable handle is much more important than the type of edge.
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2006
- Messages
- 1,079
The term "Bushcraft" knife gets thrown around a lot here, and one thing I've learned after looking around here over the last year is this. If you're particular knife is one that you are comfortable with using to perform the basic bushcraft activities of: 1. making fire and obtaining fuel for said fire, 2. making shelter, 3. aiding in getting safe drinking water, 4. obtaining and preparing food, 5. and making other tools to aid your survival; then, to me, it is a bushcraft knife. Even if it would not be one I find comfortable, but it is for you. Blade length, profile, grind, type of steel, etc. are all personal preferences. So, if you can make the knife sharp and useful in the field, I'd say go for it. And I think the Buck Vanguard could handle that.
Well said.
Mark
A "bushcraft" knife can be anything from a Mora knife to some handmade Ray Mears woodlore knife.
Usually "bushcraft" knives have the point of the blade "centered" compared to the handle to make drilling easier.
Popular bushcraft knives are Fallkniven F1, H1, Bark River Aurora, North Star, Mini North Star (a good example of what I mean with "centered"), Mora knives and so on.
Bushcraft knives usually look less "combat" that knives like RAT4, LMF II and such.
They are also smaller and lacks any serrations and finger guards.
A bushcraft knife is not in a sence a "survival" knife, but if you take away the military aspects of a survival knife you get a bushcraft knife. That is why a knife like the F1 fits in both groups. It is developed as a survival knife, but the "survival" would be against the elements, not bad guys and crashed airplanes, and then we are back full circle into bushcraft
Bushcraft is almost like "survival" but with planning. You might make the same type of fire, the same shelter, the same food as the downed pilot, but you have brought proper clothes, optional "heavier" tools, and you are usually not injured etc.
Usually "bushcraft" knives have the point of the blade "centered" compared to the handle to make drilling easier.
Popular bushcraft knives are Fallkniven F1, H1, Bark River Aurora, North Star, Mini North Star (a good example of what I mean with "centered"), Mora knives and so on.
Bushcraft knives usually look less "combat" that knives like RAT4, LMF II and such.
They are also smaller and lacks any serrations and finger guards.
A bushcraft knife is not in a sence a "survival" knife, but if you take away the military aspects of a survival knife you get a bushcraft knife. That is why a knife like the F1 fits in both groups. It is developed as a survival knife, but the "survival" would be against the elements, not bad guys and crashed airplanes, and then we are back full circle into bushcraft
Bushcraft is almost like "survival" but with planning. You might make the same type of fire, the same shelter, the same food as the downed pilot, but you have brought proper clothes, optional "heavier" tools, and you are usually not injured etc.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2006
- Messages
- 7,021
Some of the original bushcraft knives were bone or flint. Anything else is just gravy.
If you can't do bushcraft with any sharp knife, then the knife is not the problem, at least, IMHO (let the mud slinging begin).
Doc
If you can't do bushcraft with any sharp knife, then the knife is not the problem, at least, IMHO (let the mud slinging begin
).Doc
Speaking of downed pilots an excellent inexpensive albeit not traditional bushcraft knife is the US military Pilots survival knife made by Camillus ,K-BAR and Ontario. It is 1095
has good edge geometry ,is a perfect size with a 5 inch blade shaped like a mini K-BAR
and even has a good jump rated leather sheath with handy pocket stone for keeping the edge touched up. It has a flat pommel for hammering with just like my 300$ custom Skookum Bush Tool. The serrations on top of the blade are useless for cutting but work OK as a rasp.
has good edge geometry ,is a perfect size with a 5 inch blade shaped like a mini K-BAR
and even has a good jump rated leather sheath with handy pocket stone for keeping the edge touched up. It has a flat pommel for hammering with just like my 300$ custom Skookum Bush Tool. The serrations on top of the blade are useless for cutting but work OK as a rasp.
Before I was 'enlightened', ie, informed as to what makes a 'proper' bushcraft knife, I used my regular wood-gripped Vanguard... and was happy. I now have a mix of 'bushcraft' knives, including a half dozen Bark Rivers. Among them, my North Star is my least favorite - my first use and my forefinger slipped right across the blade, thankfully producing nothing more than a paper cut type injury. It is the '07 LE N S, so it is pretty to look at...
The Fox River is my favorite of that 'style', while the Gameskeeper and Boone tie for my all-around favorite. I have others - old stock Marbles, North Woods, Benchmade, and even more Bucks. I especially like the 005 Gen5 - for 'bushcraft-lite', or woods-walking, where a Buck 110 or Vic SAK Farmer is enough, too. I keep coming back to what I once used... the Vanguard.
Oh, sure, I once carried my late Dad's old WWII friend - his KaBar - even an old Western hunting knife - great camping friends. But - that Vanguard was 'safe'. If my hand slipped in the dampness, that guard stopped it. It just felt 'right'. Not being a metals expert, I didn't kow how 'inferior' mere 420HC was - or the bevel edge vs convex or scandi, although I now prefer the convex. I did note that the Vanguard didn't grow character when it got wet, like the KaBars, etc. It's shorter blade was quite effective for 95% of camp chores - a camp hatchett being needed for the rest. Yeah, the Vanguard is a great 'bushcraft' knife.
Stainz
PS The Cabela's 'Alaskan Guide' in S30V is too pretty to use... it's in the display stand with the Bark Rivers. The basic Vanguard, sheathed, is in my top drawer here - ready to travel.
The Fox River is my favorite of that 'style', while the Gameskeeper and Boone tie for my all-around favorite. I have others - old stock Marbles, North Woods, Benchmade, and even more Bucks. I especially like the 005 Gen5 - for 'bushcraft-lite', or woods-walking, where a Buck 110 or Vic SAK Farmer is enough, too. I keep coming back to what I once used... the Vanguard.
Oh, sure, I once carried my late Dad's old WWII friend - his KaBar - even an old Western hunting knife - great camping friends. But - that Vanguard was 'safe'. If my hand slipped in the dampness, that guard stopped it. It just felt 'right'. Not being a metals expert, I didn't kow how 'inferior' mere 420HC was - or the bevel edge vs convex or scandi, although I now prefer the convex. I did note that the Vanguard didn't grow character when it got wet, like the KaBars, etc. It's shorter blade was quite effective for 95% of camp chores - a camp hatchett being needed for the rest. Yeah, the Vanguard is a great 'bushcraft' knife.
Stainz
PS The Cabela's 'Alaskan Guide' in S30V is too pretty to use... it's in the display stand with the Bark Rivers. The basic Vanguard, sheathed, is in my top drawer here - ready to travel.
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2007
- Messages
- 12,294
I now compare knives agains a Mora before considering them any good as a bushcraft knife. If they won't make fuzz sticks and carve knotches etc as good as a Mora then why not just carry a Mora !
Damn, stupid Mora's, they changed the whole way I look at knives and I hate them for it !!!!!
Damn, stupid Mora's, they changed the whole way I look at knives and I hate them for it !!!!!