Bushcraft Knives - sold!

Daniel Fairly Knives

Daniel Fairly Knives

Full Time Knifemaker
Moderator
Feedback: +50 / =0 / -0
Joined
Jan 9, 2011
Messages
16,370
Check out these Bushcraft knives! These are made of high carbon steel and are chisel ground so they are easy to maintain. I used brightly colored G10 for the scales and stainless hardware. They have a small "knocker" pommel for cracking nuts and that sort of thing. A tek lok compatible pocket sheath is included, I have tek loks for my cost of $10 more and belt loops for $5 extra if you need one. These are a nice compact size and the handles are sleek and comfortable. I did the heat treat myself with my digitally controlled kiln and quenched in engineered quench oil. The knives have slightly different thicknesses of scales, the two left both have 1/8" G10 scales. I take paypal or money order for payment, international shipping is a little extra.

1/8" 1084 fg steel
Chisel Scandi grind
about 8" long with a 3.5" blade
1/8" G10 scales
Kydex Sheath

100% sole authorship - Made in the USA

The blue one is available for $100 shipped

090.jpg


086-1.jpg


024.jpg


005-2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Please bear with me (and bare with me, if you wish :eek: ) here, because I have witnessed this exact conversation before on another board. Here's the question: When using a wood chisel, you put the grind-side toward the wood so you can easily control the depth. As such, if using one of these knives to do push-cuts on wood, notching a small branch or sapling for example, wouldn't the grind be more efficient on the opposite (Emerson ;) ) side?


I went for a run today with my daughter and was making some feather sticks with my Mini CQC-7B, so I can say with some confidence that this type of grind works very well on wood.

Because bushcraft, to me, involves very little slicing of materials compared to working wood, I would prefer a left side ground Fairly Bushcraft knife. I would also prefer more subdued G10, but that's rather trivial compared to the grind.

Am I all alone here? (I get that a lot)



Please keep in mind, I am not saying your knives are wrong, they are outstanding. This is just my take on how to use a chisel grind in the woods.

Thanks
 
scouter27 said:
Please bear with me (and bare with me, if you wish :eek: ) here, because I have witnessed this exact conversation before on another board. Here's the question: When using a wood chisel, you put the grind-side toward the wood so you can easily control the depth. As such, if using one of these knives to do push-cuts on wood, notching a small branch or sapling for example, wouldn't the grind be more efficient on the opposite (Emerson ;) ) side?


I went for a run today with my daughter and was making some feather sticks with my Mini CQC-7B, so I can say with some confidence that this type of grind works very well on wood.

Because bushcraft, to me, involves very little slicing of materials compared to working wood, I would prefer a left side ground Fairly Bushcraft knife. I would also prefer more subdued G10, but that's rather trivial compared to the grind.

Am I all alone here? (I get that a lot)



Please keep in mind, I am not saying your knives are wrong, they are outstanding. This is just my take on how to use a chisel grind in the woods.

Thanks
Click to expand...

No problem at all, I am always happy to answer questions! :D

What works the best for you is the correct way to do it in my opinion!

I feel the way I grind the chisel makes it excel at cutting away from yourself and with a lower angle than conventional knives. I find there is a lot of power and control when cutting this way.

I ground my first knife on the left side and it does work fine, I do personally prefer the right side grind for right handed people.

Honestly I haven't done a ton of notching with both styles so I haven't formed an opinion on that aspect. I am always doing testing so I will keep that in mind, continuous improvement is always a goal.

Thanks for the interest and positive comments! :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top