Bushcraft? Now which grind?

I haven't read through the entire thread, but this is my take on it:
For a woodsknife, which is used for a variety of tasks in camp and round'n'about
I prefer a full height flat grind, with a convexed edge.
Plenty strong edge and a grind which is also suitable for foodprepping.
Not the best for batoning, but it will do the job.
Don't go with a knife which is too thick.
Thick knives are cool but impractical when wanting to cut stuff.
 
Rasmus80 said:
I haven't read through the entire thread, but this is my take on it:
For a woodsknife, which is used for a variety of tasks in camp and round'n'about
I prefer a full height flat grind, with a convexed edge.
Plenty strong edge and a grind which is also suitable for foodprepping.
Not the best for batoning, but it will do the job.
Don't go with a knife which is too thick.
Thick knives are cool but impractical when wanting to cut stuff.
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As a matter of fact,that is just what I ordered just minutes before you posted.I ordered a LT Wright Genesis with full flat grind in A2. I believe it also has a convex edge.I believe this will be a good start for me.
 
Ripcord 82 said:
As a matter of fact,that is just what I ordered just minutes before you posted.I ordered a LT Wright Genesis with full flat grind in A2. I believe it also has a convex edge.I believe this will be a good start for me.
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Great choice. It's a good starting point if funds aren't a concern.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I could do that, but the overall geometry would be thicker than the FFG. I'd just facet-grind it to get it to near-net shape and then blend in the facets on the slack belt portion of my grinder.
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Heh. That would be my hope and goal, actually.

I've done it by hand on both a Companion HD and a Companion. Here's the Companion. I found I preferred the thinner Companion and gave the HD to a buddy in the trades.

Mora Companion by Pinnah, on Flickr

I think there's a meaningful distinction to be made between bushcraft and a general purpose woods knife. I find a low convex like this to do great job at feather sticking and splitting wood compared to a FFG. But, a FFG handles food and other camp chores better. So there's a trade-off and plenty of room for preference. I like both (better than pure scandi) and am glad to own both convex and FFG knives.

There appears to be a hole in the market for a budget priced convexed bush crafter type blade. They exist up in the BarkRiver price range, but not at the Mora price range. It would be cool I think if somebody (hint, hint) offered convex regrinds for Moras.

Oh... probably worth mentioning Virtuovice's take on what he calls a scandi-vex grind. $300 Bark River vs a Mora Companion HD, both convexed.

 
Ripcord 82 said:
As a matter of fact,that is just what I ordered just minutes before you posted.I ordered a LT Wright Genesis with full flat grind in A2. I believe it also has a convex edge.I believe this will be a good start for me.
Click to expand...

I am certain that is going to suit you very well!
Congrats.
 
pinnah said:
Heh. That would be my hope and goal, actually.

I've done it by hand on both a Companion HD and a Companion. Here's the Companion. I found I preferred the thinner Companion and gave the HD to a buddy in the trades.

Mora Companion by Pinnah, on Flickr

I think there's a meaningful distinction to be made between bushcraft and a general purpose woods knife. I find a low convex like this to do great job at feather sticking and splitting wood compared to a FFG. But, a FFG handles food and other camp chores better. So there's a trade-off and plenty of room for preference. I like both (better than pure scandi) and am glad to own both convex and FFG knives.

There appears to be a hole in the market for a budget priced convexed bush crafter type blade. They exist up in the BarkRiver price range, but not at the Mora price range. It would be cool I think if somebody (hint, hint) offered convex regrinds for Moras.

Oh... probably worth mentioning Virtuovice's take on what he calls a scandi-vex grind. $300 Bark River vs a Mora Companion HD, both convexed.

Click to expand...

One that really surprised me, and isn't well known, is the Sheffield Green River knife. I think Dexter Russel might have the same knife. It's not convex but as FFG it would be pretty easy to do.

And I agree about the difference between a bushcraft knife and a woods knife, though defining what a bushcraft knife is, is challenging, based on what's out there already. I think many knives that are called bushcraft knives would be better termed as woods knives, since many are better for camping than crafting bushes. But, being "good at a lot, master of nothing" is kind of the goal, I think, with the exception of those that are scandi grind, which are great at crafting bushes but not good at anything else, IMO. At least compared to the other grinds. I hated doing more than woodworking with a mora, just because of the feel of it cutting compared to what I was used to.
 
bikerector said:
One that really surprised me, and isn't well known, is the Sheffield Green River knife. I think Dexter Russel might have the same knife. It's not convex but as FFG it would be pretty easy to do.

And I agree about the difference between a bushcraft knife and a woods knife, though defining what a bushcraft knife is, is challenging, based on what's out there already. I think many knives that are called bushcraft knives would be better termed as woods knives, since many are better for camping than crafting bushes. But, being "good at a lot, master of nothing" is kind of the goal, I think, with the exception of those that are scandi grind, which are great at crafting bushes but not good at anything else, IMO. At least compared to the other grinds. I hated doing more than woodworking with a mora, just because of the feel of it cutting compared to what I was used to.
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Now you tell me.I just looked in my pre 1840 stuff that I used in pre 1840 Rendezvous mountain man stuff.I have that Sheffield Green River knife along with several other Green River knives.
 
GermanyChris said:
You buy the grind your most comfortable sharpening.
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Good point Chris.Fortunately,I am pretty comfortable sharpening any grind.I often sharpen my Japanese kitchen knives and an assortment of hunting knives.I like to use Japanese waterstones mostly but I also have some diamond plates and even Dan's Arkansas stones.In the beginning I did find out how easy it was to put a convex grind on the edge whether I wanted to or not.lol:(
 
Ripcord 82 said:
Now you tell me.I just looked in my pre 1840 stuff that I used in pre 1840 Rendezvous mountain man stuff.I have that Sheffield Green River knife along with several other Green River knives.
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It's a very different knife from the genesis. A little sand paper on the edges of the wood handle does wonders and then it's a slicey demon. THe genesis is much more robust, and a lot better knife overall, but also nearly 10x the cost.
 
So Jeff White has a few inexpensive blades that are convex ground. I don't know how many or how good they are, but I cam across one on a bushcraft supply site, the camp kind I think, that was under $100 for a covex grind. His stuff is basic forged 1095 with wood handles but seem decent enough. I guess it shouldn't be too far from a condor level of knife.
 
bikerector said:
And I agree about the difference between a bushcraft knife and a woods knife, though defining what a bushcraft knife is, is challenging, based on what's out there already. I think many knives that are called bushcraft knives would be better termed as woods knives, since many are better for camping than crafting bushes. But, being "good at a lot, master of nothing" is kind of the goal, I think, with the exception of those that are scandi grind, which are great at crafting bushes but not good at anything else, IMO. At least compared to the other grinds. I hated doing more than woodworking with a mora, just because of the feel of it cutting compared to what I was used to.
Click to expand...

I can't stand a true Scandi grind myself either. I see it as a nice start to a convexed grind is all.

My opinions about grinds are shaped by my experience with skis and bikes. Two things are true at the same time. First, different designs do different things better than others and favor particular techniques to achieve good performance. Second, individual techniques can mean that different people will favor different tools for the same job. For example, downhill race skis make horrible mogul skis... unless you're Glen Plake.

I personally find true scandi grinds to be difficult to make feather sticks and shavings with. I find the blade has the propensity to "dive" into the wood. On the other hand, I have just as a hard of a time with a flat grind or hollow that is thin behind the edge. I feel like I'm constantly fighting to catch the grain and I struggle to keep a curl going. I'm sure both of these things reveal horrible technique on my part.

I find it much easier to make feathers or curls using a blade that is thicker behind the edge and well convexed. My convexed Mora is the best of the knives I own but a thinner Schrade H-15 that I have with a convexed saber grind also does well, despite being flatter and thinner. Another surprising knife to make feathers and curls with is an old 2-dot Buck 110, which has a so-called semi-hollow grind that gets noticeably thick behind the edge. This is from back in the day when they pushed the baton the blade through a steel bolt advertising and I think this grind was designed to make the edge strong. That combined with 440C made sharpening them harder. Anyway, it throws curls nicely.

Long winded way of saying that different folks will have different preferences.

I think handle shape is more important than blade grind and have yet to find a handle that gives more control doing wood working than a Mora Companion.
 
pinnah said:
I can't stand a true Scandi grind myself either. I see it as a nice start to a convexed grind is all.

My opinions about grinds are shaped by my experience with skis and bikes. Two things are true at the same time. First, different designs do different things better than others and favor particular techniques to achieve good performance. Second, individual techniques can mean that different people will favor different tools for the same job. For example, downhill race skis make horrible mogul skis... unless you're Glen Plake.

I personally find true scandi grinds to be difficult to make feather sticks and shavings with. I find the blade has the propensity to "dive" into the wood. On the other hand, I have just as a hard of a time with a flat grind or hollow that is thin behind the edge. I feel like I'm constantly fighting to catch the grain and I struggle to keep a curl going. I'm sure both of these things reveal horrible technique on my part.

I find it much easier to make feathers or curls using a blade that is thicker behind the edge and well convexed. My convexed Mora is the best of the knives I own but a thinner Schrade H-15 that I have with a convexed saber grind also does well, despite being flatter and thinner. Another surprising knife to make feathers and curls with is an old 2-dot Buck 110, which has a so-called semi-hollow grind that gets noticeably thick behind the edge. This is from back in the day when they pushed the baton the blade through a steel bolt advertising and I think this grind was designed to make the edge strong. That combined with 440C made sharpening them harder. Anyway, it throws curls nicely.

Long winded way of saying that different folks will have different preferences.

I think handle shape is more important than blade grind and have yet to find a handle that gives more control doing wood working than a Mora Companion.
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Very cool indeed.I just cleaned out my sock drawer and found my old 2 dot Buck 110. I will give it a try on feather sticks today.Felt good to pull out an old friend.
 
When it comes to woodworking, whittling, feathersticking etc. my old Buck 112 is absolute king.
It just blazes through wood. Cuts clean through 1" thick sticks.
Can't think of a better folder.
 
My personal preference is:

Full flat > Scandi > Sabre > Convex.

Those are just my needs. However, I find it saves time and energy if I also carry a hatchet a folding saw and a small folding knife. Since they each fulfill a role, that means some of those grinds lose their advantage. I don't have to use the knife to chop, because I have the axe, so the convex grind loses its' edge (pun intended).
 
I realize that I’m a bit late but I wanted to add a vote to the “try out different grinds” tally. The way I’ve done it is far too expensive for my income level (buying a knife, using it, then selling at a loss). But after years of doing that I can look at a knife’s shape, handle, and grind and have a pretty good idea of how it will feel in hand and handle the tasks I’ll use it for. Doing it that way also exposed me to different steels and some of the finer points in sharpening them. It cost me a lot, but it was also a lot of fun to experience—though now I’m addicted to knives lol
 
StoneAndSteel said:
I realize that I’m a bit late but I wanted to add a vote to the “try out different grinds” tally. The way I’ve done it is far too expensive for my income level (buying a knife, using it, then selling at a loss). But after years of doing that I can look at a knife’s shape, handle, and grind and have a pretty good idea of how it will feel in hand and handle the tasks I’ll use it for. Doing it that way also exposed me to different steels and some of the finer points in sharpening them. It cost me a lot, but it was also a lot of fun to experience—though now I’m addicted to knives lol
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Never to late.So after all those years and all that money spent,which grind did you decide that you like the best ? I know about the knife addiction,You ought to see my Japanese Kitchen knife collection. Of course,many different waterstones ,both splash and go and soakers plus Japanese natural stones adds to that addiction. But now I find my hunting knives and woods knives are quite lacking.I must remedy that.
 
Ripcord 82 said:
which grind did you decide that you like the best
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I'm the first to admit that it's greatly dependent on personal preference (after all: all grinds cut). But for MY uses I prefer full flat and saber grinds. It just seems to work best in how I use knives. Like any good addict: I'm not above trying other grinds since it means that I get to buy another knife. I just know that I'm a big fan of flats.
 
I like a good scandi or flat grind. Check out Condors offerings. They have some designs marketed to bushcafters. Some Ka Bar BK&T models are popular as well. I have knives from both these makers and like them very much.
 
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