Busse 7 v Becker Companion

M

Mr. Dave

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Ok, my Busse 7 with the Kydex sheath and Becker Companion are here now. If you want a good review of the Busse 7 go here: http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/busse_basic.html

If you want to see a thread on the Busse Basic sheaths that 1sks sells go here: http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum39/HTML/000258.html

If you want to see some threads on the companion go here: http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum21/HTML/000257.html http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum21/HTML/000265.html

Now I can limit myself to a very few short comments.

Sheath: Both are very good, tight fitting kydex but the 1sks Busse version is better. It takes a more force to sling the Busse out than the companion. Now that's a pretty useless test unless you bounce on your head really hard while hiking through the woods. But, it's the only thing about the Busse that is better than the Becker.

Edge: Surprise, surprise, Becker wins! It's not even close. The Becker pops hairs off my arm, the Busse scrapes them off.

Handle: Shape - Becker. Material - Busse.

Chopping: Busse, obviously. It's two inches longer and balanced forward.

Appearance: Becker. It got more, "Damn, that's a baaaaaad knife" comments than the Busse.

Edge Geometry: I like the Busse. Maybe the hybrid grind is better, I don't really know. But the Companion was just too thick for me and I had to thin it out.

Price: You can get two Companions for the price of one Busse 7.

Conclusion: I have one kick butt knife in the trunk of my car and one behind the seat of my pick-em-up truck. Both knives are exactly what their manufacturers promised.

David
 
The palm swell on the Busse was a little too pronounced for me. I did a little light work with both knives but no heavy chopping or security tests. The Becker's handle felt just the slightest bit better so I gave it the nod. But you know, I'd like it better if it were just a little thinner. So neither handle is perfect. Maybe I should call Matt Lamey.
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I also think the Becker's handle looks better and I like the fact that it's bolted on. If it ever breaks I'll just find a nice piece of wood and head for the scroll saw! On the other hand if those bolts come loose in the field, you are just plain out of luck. FWIW, I put loctite on mine.

Okay, okay. You beat it out of me. It's a draw on the handle.

David
 
David...I'm surprised that the #7 just scraped your arm hair off....most of the time, screaming sharpness comments abound in the Busse Basic review arena. I suspect that "one slipped by" in the inspection process...I know for a fact that if you sent it to the shop, they would sharpen it for you at no charge...

Just curious....where and when did you get it Dave? NIB?



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Andy,

I got it NIB from 1sks.

Judging from the comments on the Busse forum I expected the hairs to fall from my arm in fright when the UPS guy dropped the box off. It cuts paper, rope and wood with no trouble at all but I have to push down a little to get the hairs. It's not dull by any means. But it's not scary sharp either. Before I send it back though I want to try my hand at sharpening it. Cliff posted some techniques for sharpening the hybrid grind on the Busse forum a while ago.

8 months ago I didn't know how to sharpen a knife. Then I read Joe's FAQ. Maybe I just spoiled myself !



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Ouch! Dang, that's sharp!

David
 
Thanks for the additional handle information. If the edge on the Busse is just a little less than optimal you do not want to do a complete sharpening. Try a smooth steel + a loaded strop. If that fails try some light strokes with a fine ceramic and then the strop again if necessary.

-Cliff
 
Should I strop only the flat side, or the convex side also?

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Ouch! Dang, that's sharp!

David
 
Strop both sides, steel both sides, but try to keep the ceramic work on the flat side only if possible.

-Cliff
 
Mr. Dave,


" ... Sheath: Both are very good, tight fitting kydex but the 1sks Busse version is better. It takes a more force to sling the Busse out than the companion. Now that's a pretty useless test unless you bounce on your head really hard while hiking through the woods. But, it's the only thing about the Busse that is better than the Becker.... "
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I like the Busse sheath; I’ve handled them and they are nicely made but if we gota split hairs … I’m partial to the Becker sheath.
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First it is ambidextrous … the Busse is not.

Second The Becker sheath has eyelet rivets and four slots enabling the user the option of flat straps not just cord material for tie downs.

Third the Becker sheaths are all engineered to minimize any rattle from the knife moving in the sheath and banging on the Kydex.

Last the snapping flap (the molded portion that locks around the handle) on the Becker is not intended as the only means of retention. The Idea in the design is this: while moving the knife handle-strap is snapped shut around the handle preventing the blade from coming out ... even if you bounce on your head. The flap serves two functions; 1) as a means of “secondary security” should the handle-strap inadvertently come unsnapped and 2) as a “working retainer”. The Working retainer idea is this: While doing a task or a series of tasks with your knife you may need to, from time to time, resheath it as to free up both your hands. The snap flap provides enough retention so that the user can safely continue working without worry that the knife will fall out of the sheath. At the same time this flap allows the one handed withdraw of the blade when it is needed again. Combining all this with the above provides the user efficiency of motion in using his knife and rig together without sacrificing safety.

Again, I’m partial.
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“We are the pilgrims masters; we shall go, always, a little farther.”
 
Originally posted by Scott Evans:
I’m partial to the Becker sheath.
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First it is ambidextrous … the Busse is not.
Click to expand...

I noticed that too, but I'm right handed
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Second The Becker sheath has eyelet rivets and four slots enabling the user the option of flat straps not just cord material for tie downs.
Click to expand...

Good point. I've never used a tie down so this didn't even occur to me.

Last the snapping flap ... serves two functions; ... 2) as a “working retainer”. The Working retainer idea is this: While doing a task or a series of tasks with your knife you may need to, from time to time, resheath it as to free up both your hands.
Click to expand...

The Becker is definitely easier to snap back in the sheath, that's a good point.

Aw Crap! Look what you went and made me do. I'm chaning my mind again about which knife I like better. Now I have to get a Badger Attack and a Magnum Camp and see which I prefer among those two
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Remember when you used to ask yourself, "How could anyone end up with a hundred knives?"


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Ouch! Dang, that's sharp!

David
 
David-In regards to the Busse "scraping" the hairs off your arm I think I know what the problem is. When I got my #7 it was terrifiyingly sharp, then I decided to sharpen it. It was sharp enough to cut paper, rope and anything else I threw at it, but not shave. After talking with Jerry himself (no better source of information) he concluded that I had created a micro-burr or feather that had to be removed by stropping (stones just flipped it back and forth). One of the properties of INFI is this abiltiy for a feather to flip flop while with any other steel the feather would soon break off. Try a loaded strop (it may take a while) and I think you'll find an improvement. Hope this helps.

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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
 
Okay, here's the deal. I get a fabulous edge on my knives with the DMT clamping system, and a pretty good edge freehand on the Sharpmaker. But the one time I tried a strop (jeweler's rouge on cardboard) I made the edge worse! That really stinks, and it makes me nervous about stropping again. So here's my question, when I strop my Busse (or any knife for that matter) do I strop at about the same angle I sharpened, shallower, or steeper? And is it different on the convex side? I know to go back side first.

Thanks for your help,
David
 
You stop using light pressure so the bevel is against the strop. If you are not sure that you are using the right angle and pressure, just mark the edge and see where it is removed, same as you would on a hone.

-Cliff
 
My Busse Battle Mistress came very sharp and I have managed to keep it that way. It is impressive in such a large knife to have it pop the hair off your arm.

My Busse Steel Heart II was not sharp and the sheath had a defective rivet in the kydex sheath. I managed to improve the edge, but never got it as sharp as I would like. I would like to get the rivet fixed/replaced so perhaps Busse can get it sharp the second time around. I bought it from a dealer at a knife show.

My Busse Badger Attack is also not as sharp as I would like and I have not gotten it sharp. I bought it from Andy Prisco.

My Busse Hatchet is shaving sharp. I bought it from Andy at the same time as the Badger Attack.

I have not used any method that would change the edge or remove much steel. Perhaps if I read the above suggestions, they will help.
 
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