Busse Blades and Work Sharp KO edition

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Oct 16, 2013
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How's it hangin fellow Hogs,

Wanted to make a special request here. Can anyone make a video of them sharpening one of their medium/large fixed blades with a work sharp? Convex edges are very appealing and so is the simplicity and turn around time for turning a dull blade into paper cutting sharp with the work sharp.

So here's a few questions:

1. Is it easy to change the edge of any Busse/Bussekin blade into a convex edge using the work sharp?

2. Is anyone willing to make a video demonstrating this?

3. Can I get another round of Single Malt Scotch?
 
Hi, Rob
I don't have a video, but I have sharpened my ASHBM with the Worksharp KO. It is not difficult, but if you're like me and used to using stones I'd practice on some less valuable pieces first. Here are my thoughts on the KO:
1. A guy can remove quite a lot of metal very quickly if you use the coarser belts on a fast setting. One must proceed with caution here. I wouldn't use the extra coarse on the knife at all, and only the coarse if it's way out of wack. The medium and fine might be all you need.
2. Re-profiling to convex is quick and simple. (It is, after all, the only edge the KO will do.) I'm not a huge champion of either v or convex over the other, both seem to work well. My ASHBM came pretty dull with an un-even grind near the tip. (Sorry, guys. Don't mean to hurt anyone's feelings, but it's true in my case.) After sharpening the edge is nice, polished, and even. It cuts deep and is absolute hell on <5-6" stuff and limbing tasks. Very happy with the knife's performance, better than certain hatchets for many things.
3. The tool is pretty self explanatory and easy to use. After a few runs on a "practice" knife you'll have the hang of it. I have mine on a 20 degree angle per side for the ASHBM. It handles knives that size with no trouble. I like mine a lot, and if you proceed slowly you should have no reason to fear for the blade.

4. I'll raise you a Lagavulin 16 tonight.
 
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No time to make a video, but I have done knives from 2" to 20" machete. Like state previously, if you use the more aggressive belts without experience you will not be very happy with the havok. You should have 20+ beater knives under your belt before you tackle a nice one. With that being said it is a very versatile tool and can sharpen knives very well but is not a substitute for a pro with a KMG or equivalent.
 
Hi, Rob
I don't have a video, but I have sharpened my ASHBM with the Worksharp KO. It is not difficult, but if you're like me and used to using stones I'd practice on some less valuable pieces first. Here are my thoughts on the KO:
1. A guy can remove quite a lot of metal very quickly if you use the coarser belts on a fast setting. One must proceed with caution here. I wouldn't use the extra coarse on the knife at all, and only the coarse if it's way out of wack. The medium and fine might be all you need.
2. Re-profiling to convex is quick and simple. (It is, after all, the only edge the KO will do.) I'm not a huge champion of either v or convex over the other, both seem to work well. My ASHBM came pretty dull with an un-even grind near the tip. (Sorry, guys. Don't mean to hurt anyone's feelings, but it's true in my case.) After sharpening the edge is nice, polished, and even. It cuts deep and is absolute hell on <5-6" stuff and limbing tasks. Very happy with the knife's performance, better than certain hatchets for many things.
3. The tool is pretty self explanatory and easy to use. After a few runs on a "practice" knife you'll have the hang of it. I have mine on a 20 degree angle per side for the ASHBM. It handles knives that size with no trouble. I like mine a lot, and if you proceed slowly you should have no reason to fear for the blade.

4. I'll raise you a Lagavulin 16 tonight.

Awesome! I'm very glad to hear. I have an ASHBM, NMSFNO, and Hell Razor Terror Monkey that I want to put through the work sharp ko edition that's coming in the mail. I'll probably stick to the medium grit belt on a mid level setting. Fortunately, I do have some beater knives I can practice on first. Although I would love to know how long it took you to sharpen your ASHBM.
 
No time to make a video, but I have done knives from 2" to 20" machete. Like state previously, if you use the more aggressive belts without experience you will not be very happy with the havok. You should have 20+ beater knives under your belt before you tackle a nice one. With that being said it is a very versatile tool and can sharpen knives very well but is not a substitute for a pro with a KMG or equivalent.

Perfect -- I have a few machetes that need some sharpening. Thanks for the feedback!
 
Although I would love to know how long it took you to sharpen your ASHBM.
I didn't actually time it, but it was probably around 15 minutes give or take. It's much faster than using a stone, though IMHO stones like Arkansas black or translucent can get the knife sharper. I like the KO pretty well for most things, Busse included.
 
Is there some advantage of the Work Sharp compared to a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt grinder that costs much less?
 
Is there some advantage of the Work Sharp compared to a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt grinder that costs much less?

Yes, the Work Sharp Ken Onion edition is portable. It also has angles ranging from 15-30 degrees. There is a guide that helps avoid rounding off the tip. It has variable speeds and it consistently ensures a clean convex edge.
 
If you get one check out these belts, on ebay search for "3/4 x 12" ass't. abrasive sanding belts for Darex Work Sharp Knife Sharpener" . Cheaper than the Darex ones IIRC and you get more. If that doesn't work hit me up for a direct link, I didn't know if this is deal spotting or if I'm allowed to post it.

Just sharpened a HOGFSH, SR Vex, and a machete on mine yesterday..
 
Those econoway belts on ebay are decent, but they are not nearly as long lasting as the nortons or the micromesh belts. You can order direct from micromesh for less than a buck a belt. The norton belts are vastly superior and 4x the price.

If you get one check out these belts, on ebay search for "3/4 x 12" ass't. abrasive sanding belts for Darex Work Sharp Knife Sharpener" . Cheaper than the Darex ones IIRC and you get more. If that doesn't work hit me up for a direct link, I didn't know if this is deal spotting or if I'm allowed to post it.

Just sharpened a HOGFSH, SR Vex, and a machete on mine yesterday..
 
I'm assuming all the belts mentioned above are compatible with Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition? I wish I had a HOGFSH :-/
 
The ones I'm talking about from ebay are. I'll look into the ones from micromesh too.
 
The ones I'm talking about from ebay are. I'll look into the ones from micromesh too.

Any 3/4 x 12 will work with the WSKO edition. Micromesh is a OEM for Darex/Worksharp. The eBay belts (Econoway) are a non-affiliated abrasive belt supplier. I believe (not sure) that all of the Econoway belts are aluminum oxide. The norton's should be SIC (silicon carbide) and now offer diamond also.

Aluminum oxide is fine, just not as aggressive or long lasting as SIC, diamond or ceramic.

When I bought my WSKO i spent hours researching belt options. I ended up buying the Econways from eBay and 100 belts from Micromesh. I do not recommend the Econoways.
 
Is there some advantage of the Work Sharp compared to a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt grinder that costs much less?

Guy, do you use a HF 1x30? I've been thinking about one of those for table-top "indoors" use. If you do have some experience with one, which mfr's belts do you prefer? I've noticed 3M carries some selection in 1x30, but all the HF 1x30 belts seem to be specified for woodworking only.

Thanks pard,
Will
 
I do almost all my blades on an original WS. Just put a nice shaving sharp new edge on my used ASH1 a week or so ago. Took me a bit to be confident enough to use it on my good blades but now I certainly am. Will probably but the KO edition as well... :)
 
I'm exactly the same as Andy here. I'm still running on the original WS and have sharpened most of my knives with it. Note that care should be taken to not leave drag marks along the blade from the guide itself. I tape my blades. I'll be upgrading to the KO shortly also. Longer blades have been not issue to date and I think even less so with the KO Edition.

Lawrie
 
My main concern with the WS or any other system is how will I touch it up or sharpen it in the field? How do any of the convex guys sharpen in the field?
 
My main concern with the WS or any other system is how will I touch it up or sharpen it in the field? How do any of the convex guys sharpen in the field?

To me, field touch-up is the easiest maintenance aspect on convex edges. I cut a 2x6 in strip of mouse pad and carry it in a zippered envelope in my pack with an assortment of wet/dry auto-grade strips of sandpaper from 600 to 1500 grit. On an established convex edge, the mousepad under the sandpaper forms to the shape of the edge under light pressure and gives it a nice realignment and re-polish. I carry a 6" long strip only to have something to hold onto, as a sharpening stroke (edge trailing) only takes about 3 inches of travel. I've practiced a little just holding a strip of sandpaper upturned on my thigh while seated, using my quad as a cushion, and I think this will work okay as well, eliminating the need to carry anything more than a couple of strips of sandpaper in my pack when traveling light. :thumbup:
 
Guy, do you use a HF 1x30? I've been thinking about one of those for table-top "indoors" use. If you do have some experience with one, which mfr's belts do you prefer? I've noticed 3M carries some selection in 1x30, but all the HF 1x30 belts seem to be specified for woodworking only.

Thanks pard,
Will

I use a HF. I dislike it b/c it doesn't track the belts well. I find myself changing the tracking to keep the belt on the machine more often. Plus belt-changing is a hassle. And it takes up valuable bench space.

Rob - here's a review vid that shows a longer knife.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8Yl_Z-oRkU

I would consider this if I didn't sharpen so infrequently at this point. Looks like a handy tool.
 
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