Busse Blades and Work Sharp KO edition

I use a HF. I dislike it b/c it doesn't track the belts well. I find myself changing the tracking to keep the belt on the machine more often. Plus belt-changing is a hassle. And it takes up valuable bench space.

Rob - here's a review vid that shows a longer knife.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8Yl_Z-oRkU

I would consider this if I didn't sharpen so infrequently at this point. Looks like a handy tool.

Thanks Dennis! I appreciate the link.
 
Question for anyone who has the Work Sharp KO--

Can you lock the power button in the "On" position, to get two hands on the knife while sharpening?

Thanks,
Will
 
Question for anyone who has the Work Sharp KO--

Can you lock the power button in the "On" position, to get two hands on the knife while sharpening?

Thanks,
Will

Hey Will -- yes you can turn the power button on to use two hands
 
Hey Guys,

Just wanted to update you all on the Work Sharp KO edition. I have used it on many knives so far. I have sharpened Moras, kitchen knives, Becker BK9, Rodent Solution, Becker BK16, Victorinox Hercules, Kershaw Folder, and NMSFNO. So all of them getting shaving sharp with relative ease except for two. The Kershaw folder for whatever reason doesn't come out right -- I really don't know why. Also the NMSFNO doesnt come out right -- the reason appears to be because the blade thickness/profile doesn't seem to be able to take advantage of the angle guides. It almost looks like the knife is blade vertically while it's being sharpened. If I press it against the angle guide it changes the angle. Can anyone help?? I have badly been wanting my NMSFNO to be shaving sharp with a convex edge.
 
Hey Guys,

Just wanted to update you all on the Work Sharp KO edition. I have used it on many knives so far. I have sharpened Moras, kitchen knives, Becker BK9, Rodent Solution, Becker BK16, Victorinox Hercules, Kershaw Folder, and NMSFNO. So all of them getting shaving sharp with relative ease except for two. The Kershaw folder for whatever reason doesn't come out right -- I really don't know why. Also the NMSFNO doesnt come out right -- the reason appears to be because the blade thickness/profile doesn't seem to be able to take advantage of the angle guides. It almost looks like the knife is blade vertically while it's being sharpened. If I press it against the angle guide it changes the angle. Can anyone help?? I have badly been wanting my NMSFNO to be shaving sharp with a convex edge.


Take the guard of the WSKO and have at it. Once I took of the guard, I never put it back on.
 
I use a HF. I dislike it b/c it doesn't track the belts well. I find myself changing the tracking to keep the belt on the machine more often. Plus belt-changing is a hassle. And it takes up valuable bench space.

Rob - here's a review vid that shows a longer knife.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8Yl_Z-oRkU

I would consider this if I didn't sharpen so infrequently at this point. Looks like a handy tool.

Take the guard of the WSKO and have at it. Once I took of the guard, I never put it back on.

Well I would take it off -- if nothing else worked, but I like the consistency that is achieved with them on. I would like to be able to put a razor sharp edge on my becker bk2, NMSFNO, and later my Ash-1 when it arrives. However I'm becoming increasingly frustrated while sharpening any blade that is .25 inches or more. Anyone else experience at least some difficulty sharpening these thicker blades?
 
Well I would take it off -- if nothing else worked, but I like the consistency that is achieved with them on. I would like to be able to put a razor sharp edge on my becker bk2, NMSFNO, and later my Ash-1 when it arrives. However I'm becoming increasingly frustrated while sharpening any blade that is .25 inches or more. Anyone else experience at least some difficulty sharpening these thicker blades?

Exactly, the guard is not designed for thick knives like .25

It is a great tool but think knives completely overwhelm the design specs of the machine.
 
I also have a couple of other questions:

1. The guide is a V shape suitable for flat grind knives -- I see this being an issue for certain saber grinds and full convex blades, the reason being that it's too difficult to rest the blade even on the guide while making sure the angle is indeed 20 degrees.

2. The weight of a blade seems to make a considerable difference also in that a heavier blade flexes the belt more. Is this just me?

3. How do you really know when it's time to change the belt due to it being worn out. I've sharpened 15 knives (some several times) and the fine grit belt seems to have steel/blade material all over it.
 
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