BUSSE FSH Stripped and Convexed( PICS)

[Justabuyer]

Picked up a slightly used Busse FSH a while back. IMNSHO the blade behind the edge was way to thick. The Bevel angle was to obtuse.
The black blade finish bugged me.

So I stripped the finish with some Paint remover. Took about 20 mins.
Interestingly there was some sort of sub-finish under the Epoxy/paint finish. It reminded me of parkerization! That makes sense too. Parkerization is commonly used in the gun world under applied finishes like those that come on Busse knives.

The First two pictures show The handle area where my sharpening and reprofileing did not disturb this sub-finish. Has a nice look and feel to it.

The next two pictures show the wide zero transition to primary grind edge I put on the knife near the tip. Hard to tell from looking but it is way beyond shaving sharp.

Next three Picture show the Main portion of the edge in various details and lighting, the idea being to let you see and get a sense of the entire edge.

Last pictures are of the entire blade. I did this all by hand and it took HOURS! I really need to get a belt sander.

I find it Ironic that dispite this knife now being a better cutter than factory and the edge is now DEAD SIMPLE to keep sharp... It would sell for less than a new one. Go figure.

 

[steelnut]

WOW! That's the one from your previous thread!
Now it looks like a Vampire Slayer:thumbup: :thumbup:

 

[Justabuyer]

I just could not get the edge right with all that Paint clogging up my ultra fine paper.... So Said to hell with re-sale value and went ahead and fully optimized the knife... This Steel heart is a cutting sliceing MOFO now.

 

[Progunner]

Looks like one heck of a good start brother, now to work those bevels out and mirror finish the whole thing. I have a used SJTAC I am slowly working on to do just that, maybe.

 

[Justabuyer]

Looks like one heck of a good start brother, now to work those bevels out and mirror finish the whole thing. I have a used SJTAC I am slowly working on to do just that, maybe.

LOL!!! I don't think so..... It would about a hundred years to hand sand all the "well we are going to paint it anyway no need to smooth it out" divots left in the blade. LOL!!! Nope that 3/8 inch of polished bevel is about as good as it is going to get. My hands, arms and shoulders are KILLING me from getting it this far.

I am old and weak.

 

[rt014]

Now that looks like a sharp knife!!

 

[THEGRATENATE]

Well,
If you think that the resale value is that much lower there are always PM's.

Those are some A+ pics.

Thanks for taking us along for the journey.

 

[nick681]

I find it Ironic that dispite this knife now being a better cutter than factory and the edge is now DEAD SIMPLE to keep sharp...

Sounds like a winner to me! :thumbup: What the knife would sell for doesn't compare to pleasure gained from using it.

Nick

 

[Crafft]

Great job!!
Would like to see that FSH perform some cutting tasks:thumbup:

 

[rbmcmjr]

I think what you are calling the "secondary finish" is just the INFI dimples holding a little extra bit of the coating.

Nice work. I really need to get around to finishing my NO-e that I stripped two years ago and left looking harsh. I keep finding other things to spend my time on, though.

Rick

 

[JurT]

Great job! Love that convex edge

 

[Rat-30]

I just could not get the edge right with all that Paint clogging up my ultra fine paper.... So Said to hell with re-sale value and went ahead and fully optimized the knife... This Steel heart is a cutting sliceing MOFO now.

Nice work, Brother! :thumbup:

eMail sent.


Best regards,

John

 

[pbubsy]

SWEET edgework! That thing must be a beast now!

 

[hawkinsa21]

Justabuyer - yeah totally sweet... couple of questions if I may:

1. what grade sand paper did you use to get that far? Looks high!

2. when you say by hand, I am guessing that you didn't just 'strop' this bad boy... looks like you took a pad and paper to the edge and filed at it - which I know will get work done much faster than simple stropping, but I'm interested to know, after all, you said 'sharper than shaving sharp'...

3. how are you keeping this sharp?? Just a quick strop?? I've found stropping on a ceramic rod and then a quick leather strop gets it shaving sharp, so less than 5 minutes work


Cheers bud,

Alex

 

[Justabuyer]

Justabuyer - yeah totally sweet... couple of questions if I may:

1. what grade sand paper did you use to get that far? Looks high!

2. when you say by hand, I am guessing that you didn't just 'strop' this bad boy... looks like you took a pad and paper to the edge and filed at it - which I know will get work done much faster than simple stropping, but I'm interested to know, after all, you said 'sharper than shaving sharp'...

3. how are you keeping this sharp?? Just a quick strop?? I've found stropping on a ceramic rod and then a quick leather strop gets it shaving sharp, so less than 5 minutes work


Cheers bud,

Alex

2000 grit...

Yeah I used course sand paper on a stick with a leather pad to "file" the edge into shape and reset the bevel WAY back.

To keep it sharp after use... VERY LIGHT steeling to realign edge. Then just a few strop passes on 2000 grit, then a little work on the leather strop.

Worst part is I ended up selling the thing last night because of this thread.
Went to a good hog, who asked nicely.

Thats ok though.... I had to pay for a sage fatty FBM

 

[bigocean]

Nice blades

 

[THEGRATENATE]

Worst part is I ended up selling the thing last night because of this thread.
Went to a good hog, who asked nicely.

Now that's just wrong.



Are you planning on giving the same treatment to another blade, or have you gotten the zero edging out of your system.

 

[Justabuyer]

Now that's just wrong.

Are you planning on giving the same treatment to another blade, or have you gotten the zero edging out of your system.

Oh I have done it a lot and will do it again for sure. In fact I think the Flat fatty FBM I have coming would be a GREAT one for this.

Imagine a .320 Battle mistress with a Zero edge. You could cleave a Zombie in half.

Jim

 

[resinguy]

I think what you are calling the "secondary finish" is just the INFI dimples holding a little extra bit of the coating.

I don't know about that, Rick. My stripped Ruck has the same overall grey look, even on the ground bevels, where there are no dimples remaining.

top pic, stripped not sanded; other pic, after 30 minutes with some medium grit. That side looks even better now, getting towards a convex zero edge. I tried to take some new pics, but all the shots were out of focus, have to try again.

What I find interesting on JABs FSH is the longitudinal milling marks forming the primary bevel, I haven't seen those before. You can see my Ruck has lateral grind lines, that seems to be more common on stripped blades. Maybe higher production volume knives get the full CNC operation, while lower volume items get more conventional belt grinding? I wonder.

btw, JAB, nice work! :thumbup: I trust you were fairly compensated for your efforts?

 

[Justabuyer]

Correct. My knife had a finish under the painted coating. That is my I included the first two PIctures to show this finish. My money is still on some sort of a parkerized finish.