Busse Steel Heart 2 "E" First Impressions

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Feb 6, 2000
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Well, after about a year and a half of reading and learning, I finally decided to take the plunge and get a Busse. I got a Steel Heart 2 E. And let me tell you, I am not the least bit disappointed!

This knife has about a 6 3/4" to 7" edge, with an overall length of about 13". The blade is 1/4" thick of INFI. The sheath is kydex-covered nylon (or some synthetic material!) with a pouch. This info is for those of you who aren't that acquainted with Busse blades.

In the past I've voiced my opinions about my dislike of the "E" handles. That has now changed. Firstly, the knife looks ever so sexier in real life than in photos; for some reason you have to be holding the knife to realize how awesomely sexy it is. Also, the drop of the handle makes the knife exquisitely comfortable to use. I would prefer the handle slabs to be larger though. The handle is very slim, really. It's only about 3/4" or a little less wide. That makes it compact, etc., but I think thicker and more rounded handle scales would improve the comfort of the handles, as well as reducing fatigue while in use, and improving safety. The diamond quilted micarta has great retention, but isn't abrasive, and is comfortable. I remember someone mentioning that the tang in the handle extended above the handle slabs and made the handle uncomfortable. I in no way did encounter this problem. On my knife, the tang and the handle slabs are very nearly flush, and I had no comfort problems. I think that because the industrial fasteners creat three small holes in the handle, a makeshift spear would be easy to make with a stick and some rope. The lanyard and talon hole would also help this. The finger cutout is an excellent feature, and allows you to do very precise work. I had no problems with cutting myself on the edge next to the cutout, partly because the rest of my fingers were behind the talon hole/guard.

In pictures, the blade tip looks extremely blunt. I find this not to be true. The blade tip isn't all that sharp, but would be quite passable for military/tactical purposes I think (as in stabbing someone). It is quite a sharp point, actually. Also, the tip is very strong (the blade does taper from 1/4" stock to about 1/8" stock at the tip, during the last 1.5" to 2" of the blade). The primary grinds on the blade where a little off. I didn't expect this. It may be due to the assymetrical grind, but somehow I doubt it. Anyhow, the grinds aren't really that much off. I do have a question: the assymetrical grind is on the primary grinds, right? If so, on what side (if the tip of the knife is pointing away from you). I can't tell which side the convex grind is on, and the convex grind must be somewhat subtle. The crinkle coat on the blade is very good. It gives the blade a nice look, and feels very durable. I found one other problem with the knife. Right next to the pommel of the knife (slightly on the top side), there is quite a large blemish in the blade. The blemish has been covered by the crinkle coat, and is mostly superficial, but is a little bothering. I would have thought that it would have been ground off, or fixed in some way. But hey, it's not really that bad. Maybe I'm over-reacting. It is really only cosmetic. It's 4-5 millimeters long and about 2 millimeters wide (the width of the blade; I hope I've got my measuring right). It is probably just under a millimeter deep, but is quite noticeable. Anyhow, as I have said, it's only cosmetic, and this is a user blade. Even if it wasn't, the crinkle coat hides it pretty well.

I am very impressed with the sheath also. The kydex insert does have some hold on the knife, which is a nice feature (and the insert is permanently glued into the sheath, so it won't fall out). Also, the retention strap is very tight and strong on the knife, so when it is engaged, loss of the knife is next to impossible. The quality of the pocket on the sheath is also a welcome surprise. I expected an open, loose pocket. What I got was a pocket with a strong velcrow (sp?) cover and elastic or something that keeps the items in the pouch snug and tight. One could keep a small sharpener in there. The holes at the bottom and top of the sheath make attaching the sheath to a bag/pack quite simple, with a bit of rope. The one thing I would like to suggest about the sheath is that it be made to ride about an inch and a half higher or lower. As others have said, it's neither a true high-ride or low-riding sheath. While it's ok how it is, making the belt loop higher or lower would be a nice improvement.

What can I say! I love this knife! I can't wait till I get a chance to really put it through its paces.

On one of the pics in this link, I'm holding the knife with my index finger in the finger cut-out (is this called a saber grip? I though I heard that somewhere). Here's the link:

http://members4.clubphoto.com/a318774/Steel_Heart_2_E/
 
AFAIK the blade is flat ground, with only the edge having the asymmetric grind. I'm surprised to hear you mention that the grinds are off, as the primary grinds on my Battle Mistress are just about the most even I've ever seen on a knife, custom or production. I've always thought saber grip is actually like a hammer grip, with the exception of the thumb being extended along the top of the blade rather than wrapped into a fist, not choked up as you have it. That aside, thanks for your comments on the knife; it's always nice to add to the "database" here on bladeforums.
 
Andrew,
The convex grind is on the right side (knife pointing away from you).
I think the sheath was done well, also.
Kind of funny that-just like you said-I recently commented on not liking the E-handles based on pics, but being very pleased with them "in person".
I bought the Natural Outlaw, but it hasn't seen much use, yet. Hope to get in the woods in a couple of weeks and change that
smile.gif


 
Andrew Lynch:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I would prefer the handle slabs to be larger though.</font>

So would I for the exact same reasons you describe.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">the assymetrical grind is on the primary grinds, right? </font>

The primary grind is the one that roughs out the blade shape. On flat ground knives it is the bevel which starts at the spine. The edge bevel is usually refered to as the secondary bevel, which on the Busse knives is a dual convex/flat grind.

When you say the primary grinds are off, are you talking about the edge? If so, yes they are very different in width. The convex one is significantly wider than the flat one. The easiest way to see which one is convex is to turn the blade edge up and look down it. Right after the index finger cutout you can clearly see the edge profile of the two sides. The convex nature is not that extreme of a curvature but is visibly different from the flat grind on both Busse blades I have seen.

[blemish]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">It is probably just under a millimeter deep</font>

A mm is quite a significant depth. Do you mean that the blade has a hole a mm deep, 4-5 mm long an 2 mm wide?


<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">the insert is permanently glued into the sheath, so it won't fall out</font>

The ones Eagle makes for Strider have I think the inserts tied into place on the bottom so they can be removed for cleaning but at the same time are very secure, which is much better than being glued in place.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">While it's ok how it is, making the belt loop higher or lower would be a nice improvement. </font>

Strider has exactly this on their sheaths, they convert from hi to low ride bu allowing the belt loop to fold down and snap onto the back of the sheath. I like my sheaths to ride really low, the kydex sheaths that Busse used to have with the extension loop were perfect in height, also convertable to higher-ride by removing the extension clip which also allowed the quick removal of the knife without needing to undo any strap/webbing/belt.

-Cliff

 
Cliff,

Your right, I am talking about the (primary) bevel, not the primary grind. And the primary bevel is a little off (I expected the secondary bevel to look off, due to the assymetrical edge). It is not too badly off though, and it seems as if on one of the sides the grind extends slightly further than the other side. Thus, the edge is still right in the middle of the blade, and the only way the grind is off is that on one side it extends too far (or on one side it doesn't extend far enough). So, it doesn't bother me.

The blemish is probably closer to 2/3 of a millimeter deep at the deepest, and is not consistently deep. The other measurements are right though (in fact, it is probably about 5 millimeters wide rather than 2. I'm only now getting a ruler) It looks like a little bit of acid or something was dropped on the pommel and the acid ate out a little pool. I wouldn't describe it as a hole. It's more like a shallow pool with an uneven bottom. Needless to say, I was surprised I found a blemish like that on a Busse knive. But, as I've said, it's only a cosmetic blemish, not deep enough to be structural.

About the sheath: I bought this new but second hand, so I'm not 100% sure that the knife came with the glue right out of the factory, but I can't imagine why someone would glue in the kydex insert. The glue doesn't look strong though, and the part I can see has partly separated from the cordura. It looks like glue-gun glue. I think I could probably remove it if I really wanted to.

By the way, I don't know if you've seen any of the "D-guard" Battle Mistresses (I think they are called d-guards). These are the ones with the braided paracord guards that extend from the lanyard hole to the talon hole. I tried to replicate this on my Steel Heart (not the braiding, just the cord guard)and found the guard pretty easy to make (as long as you don't intricately braid it) and very functional. When choking down with my pinky finger off the knife on my SH (for heavy chopping), the D-guard improved safety and grip retention very well. In fact, it improved safety and grip retention in a number of grips. It's something interesting to try.

Oh, and I just love the finger cut-out. It makes the Steel Heart like a scalpel or something, and it can do extremely fine work.

 
Andrew Lynch:


<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Thus, the edge is still right in the middle of the blade, and the only way the grind is off is that on one side it extends too far (or on one side it doesn't extend far enough).</font>

This is intentional, the edge bevels are of different angles (or curvatures) and thus extend up different lengths into the primary grind.


<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I can't imagine why someone would glue in the kydex insert.</font>

You would want it held in by some means or else you would just draw it out with the blade. The tie-in Strider uses seems to be optimal to me as it keeps the insert in securely but yet allows easy removal. I am actually just assuming that is the way it is held in I have never actually untied it, maybe I should actually do that.

As for the D-guards, yes I have seen some, I like them for the protection they offer my fingers when working around thorny brush. I don't relax my grip or choke-down while chopping to improve speed as generally my chopping style is more power driven so I need a very secure grip and locked wrist. But yes, for any of the whippier chopping styles greater security via a laynard, d-guard etc., offers an improvement in functionality.


-Cliff
 
I bought the Steel Heart E from Andy at the NY Knife show in November. It is as I bought it. The kydex came glued in place. On my web site you can see a picture of a Busse Variant. It came with a kydex sheath. I like the kydex much better but the sheath you got is the one they switched over to.

------------------
Alex

My Knife Page
 
The Strider inserts are indeed held in by a piece of parcord. This is the insert and you can see the holes at the bottom :

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/images/pab_insert.jpg

The cord comes with the knot epoxied so you won't be able to untie it. When I put it back in I did not use epoxy to secure the knot as I don't need that level of security and instead want the ease of removal for cleaning.

The insert is a simple fold over and can be opened for flushing and wiping out debris. It has a strong retention, actually its the only retention on the blade there is no handle strap.

-Cliff
 
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