Recommendation? Busse stripping/polish questions

JackTheKnifeGuy

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2017
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943
Birthday is coming up in a few days and Im thinking of treating myself to something off the exchange or one of the Battle grades currently offered and stripping it, polishing it, putting it through the works and making it mine. A perty polished user. Been looking at a lot of stripped photos but most I see have what looks like a matte gray finish (residue?), even after being polished.

Does stripped infi/sr101 take a nice mirror polish?

Ive got sand paper, wool, lots of flitz and paint strippers and an orbital sander and buffers.

Any info would be appreciated.:thumbsup:
 

JackTheKnifeGuy

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2017
Messages
943
That things a beauty, theres also a huck finn im thinking of getting. Was thinking about the fusion Huck but knowing myself I couldnt resist the bigger one for much longer. Should be able to bite deeper once the coating is gone.
That grey finish i was seeing might have been just lack of further sanding
 

honorearth

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Joined
Mar 29, 2016
Messages
619
The gray is the decarb layer and it is a process to get it off. I usually use acetone for stripping and then 220 grit sand paper to get the decarb cleaned up. Then work your way up in grit to get the polish level you are after.
 

Leonardo63

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Joined
May 24, 2017
Messages
2,645
I suggest first starting with how to etch the logo so it's there after stripping. If it's coated it makes a great mask for the parts you don't want to etch. There's a chemical and electrical method. On my next one I'm going to try electro etching in a bucket of solution. It seems this method will keep the engraving the sharpest of all from what I've seen. It's more of a hassle to set up but I think will be worth the extra effort.
Stripping and polishing isn't that hard and starting with a BG is a good choice imo, not so much at risk. I prefer to remove the scales and do the whole blade proper but I've invested in the tools and materials to be able to duplicate the flared tubes, it's a great strong method of attaching them. It's a good feeling knowing no matter how my experiments may turn out I can always take it back to stock, albeit shiny :D
 

JackTheKnifeGuy

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2017
Messages
943
I suggest first starting with how to etch the logo so it's there after stripping. If it's coated it makes a great mask for the parts you don't want to etch. There's a chemical and electrical method. On my next one I'm going to try electro etching in a bucket of solution. It seems this method will keep the engraving the sharpest of all from what I've seen. It's more of a hassle to set up but I think will be worth the extra effort.
Stripping and polishing isn't that hard and starting with a BG is a good choice imo, not so much at risk. I prefer to remove the scales and do the whole blade proper but I've invested in the tools and materials to be able to duplicate the flared tubes, it's a great strong method of attaching them. It's a good feeling knowing no matter how my experiments may turn out I can always take it back to stock, albeit shiny :D
Ive been looking at a couple techniques but so far the 9volt salt water method seems to be the best working one among people , Although i have never heard of the bucket electro etching, Ill look into it:thumbsup:
For now im fine with screws until I can save up to get better equipment.

How do you remove the scales safely? Dremmel?

I feel like I should be paying for all this valuable information:eek:
 
Joined
Feb 7, 2013
Messages
1,859
Stripped and polished INFI


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Snakebreaker
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DIRECT
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Joined
Jul 3, 2016
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Flar, you know how much that hurts me and you still stab me with that thing.....one click away, ... I was one click away.... that regert that still stings :(:(:(
Sorry brother, just trying to show INFI can be used to shave with or in :D when polished.
 
Joined
Mar 14, 2009
Messages
1,146
I use citristrip then sandpaper to remove the decarb layer. Today worked on my NMFBM , the decarb removal git very tedious so I got it on the buffer. So far I used just a scotch brite type of wheel and it is starting to shine up a bit. After I go in the higher grit compounds it will be pretty mirrored although not perfect.
pkh8K6e.jpg

f8SVhrP.jpg
 
Last edited:

Ptac157

Gold Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2013
Messages
138
I use citristrip then sandpaper to remove the decarb layer. Today worked on my NMFBM , the decarb removal git very tedious so I got it on the buffer. So far just switch brute type of wheel and it is starting to shine up a bit. After I go in the higher grit compounds it will be pretty mirrored although not perfect.
pkh8K6e.jpg

f8SVhrP.jpg
Nice work mate, I actually find it quite enjoyable for the first 10 minutes. Then i start getting impatient and ticked off
 
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