button stud and edge beveler size question for 8-9Oz Leather

J

J_Von

Joined
Jan 19, 2015
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46
Greetings!

I need some advice, recently I bought a cheap edge beveler and it does not remove enough leather and only takes of a fine sliver and its tough to work with. I think I need one that takes off a larger bite, what size would you recommend? This would be used on 8-9 oz leather. My other question is on button stud size for a medium size bowie knife sheath and Its about a 7" blade length.

Any advice would be appreciated as always!

http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/site-search-results.aspx?sectionpath=3&processor=content&p_keyword=edge+beveler

http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/11310-007.aspx
 
I use the #3 more than any other. Once I use the edger on the leather, I sand the edges with 100 grit and then 240 grit sandpaper before I begin to do the final burnishing.
 
Thanks for the info, I never thought about sanding but now that you say it I can see why. Hey I just checked mine and its a #3 but I don't like it. Maybe its of poor quality and dull not sure but I am thinking I need a larger number maybe a #4 or 5.......
 
There are places where an inexpensive or "cheaper" tool will work okay. Edge Bevelers is not one of those. The edge Bevelers shown in the link above are probably the worst performing I have ever seen. They are exceedingly hard to sharpen and they come dull most of the time.

If you are using a better quality ie: more expensive beveler then a number 2 is what you will probably pick up the most. Now that I'm not using saddle weight leathers 12 to 16 oz. I have little use for my #3 and #4 bevelers. For Sheath work with 7-8 with 2 oz. lining I use the #2 and have recently started using the #0 and #1 for the smaller items.

If you are just starting out, save up and get a good #2 to start. Barry King makes some good ones as does the Weaver Master tool line.

Incidentally, taking more off with the beveler is not necessarily a good thing. Just a small radius is really all you need and then the remaining more flat surface is easier to sand and finish to a smooth good looking edge. (at least that's what works best for me)

Paul
 
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Hey Jvon,
Another question I may ask is if you got the straight shaft or the bent shaft beveler?

My first purchase ever was a straight shaft and the worst thing I ever did, never did work right and still sits gathering dust.

The bent shaft model I got next works like a charm, easy to sharpen, and much easier to track along the leathers edge.

Like Paul I use a number 2 for nearly everything, I also have my eye on a number 1 from Osborn that looks rather nice. Wish list as my budget isnt even a beer budget. :p

If you do indeed have a bent shaft tool, try sharpening it. I use a stone called a slip stone on mine, the curve is perfect for touch ups. If you do not have the bent tool, and yours is relatively unused, try taking it back to Tandy and trading it in on a bent shaft number 2. They have a really good return policy here in Texas, I hope its as good all over.

EDIT: to add, you will still have to sharpen that tool, they almost always come a bit on the dull side. Once I got that number 2 it was the only one that came really sharp, simply sailed through the leather.

EDIT number two, Check out the Sam Browne Stud there at Tandy. Its a rivet stud type and you'll have to get one of those nifty little anvils to set it, but its the best they offer in the way of secure fit and set. Screw backs are always a worry or me, even with a good locking glue it still might come loose. That, and they all come with HUGE screws for the back, I bought a few a while back and still in awe how big the screw back is!
 
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5/16" socket works well to set those rivet studs. I don't have the anvil. Just a little trick. I've got a drawer full of edgers. My favorites are the Barry Kings and the Weavers as Paul mentioned. But I also have Douglas, JWP and Osborne. I have 4s and 5s that I simply never use. I do use a #3 alot for sheaths but I also set my stiching line in a little more than most to accomodate that. If I could only have two I bet I could get by real well with my #1 Weaver and #2 BK. A quality edger comes sharp and I've found that the secret for me is to never let it get dull. As soon as it starts to drag I'm using the corner of a buffing wheel (with green scratch remover compoound) to polish that edge. I never put a stone to my edgers anymore.
 
Would be nice to have a buffing wheel, but nope. That slip stone is ultra fine so it takes so little metal I have no worries. A little white rouge on a piece of leather on the edge makes a nice shiny finish. Learnt that rouge on leather thing from Paul. I used a cord attached to a board with rouge on it before then, but it makes a groove instead of polishing an edge. Ruined a very old edger doing that.

My point with him trading it in is that he isn't out the money on the first one making a little easier to buy better later.
 
I made a little sharpening board. I believe Weaver sells something similar.

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Dowel glued to the board. I use 1.5k and 2.5k grit paper and I have a piece of leather glued to one of the dowels for a strop. Light use of chromium oxide on the leather.

I use a no2 and don't plan on using anything larger.
 
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J_Von said:
Thanks to all the great replies! You have convinced me now and I have to get a #2 or 3 of a good quality edger......

leatherman,

I think I have a straight edger has a very slight curve up but is not sharp enough as all the replies indicated and I have to agree.

I will definitely look into a better quality bent shaft one.

How about this one?
http://www.weaverleathersupply.com/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=9481&CatalogId=001&CatalogDetailId=32&NSM=Y
Click to expand...

A good picture of the bent shaft edger from Tandy is above in Anthonys post. It makes all the difference.

Dull is no problem if you make the right sharpening jigs, Anthonys is a great example, and simply rounding a piece of scrap leathers edge and applying a good rouge to it will help your sharpening as well. I tend to strop my edger on every project a few times before getting to work.

If yours looks like the above edger, it may just be dull. Dont give up on it unless you want to spend more money and get a high quality tool. Nothing wrong with that. :)
 
you knowe that i was rather okay with my straight shaft beveler up until this post, right? :D the only thing bothering me was the fact that it made a straight cut and not rounded so as to preform the edge...
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah... that is the curse of uncertainty! now, i mostly use my #2 and only sharpened it once so far (used a round file and sandpaper) but i guess the#3 could use sharpening again. i'll have to give it a closer look again on how it is profiled.
 
The bent shaft cuts the same I'm guessing. The rounded cut is a feature that some edgers have, but not mine. Even so, it's like 5 seconds with sandpaper to blend it together, which I'd probably do anyway.

I wasn't totally sure about my no2 until I polished the edge. It cuts nicely, cased or dry.
 
Yea, those straight shaft bevelers have a flat bottom so they leave a flat cut.

The newer bent shaft bevelers have a convex bottom so tend to cut a more rounded bevel.

Now, for a while there the bent shaft models had a very narrow channel, this made for a headache to sharpen and didnt track well at all. They now have a much larger cut out and muuuuch easier to sharpen and use. I have one of each and took a round file to my older one now it works nearly as well as the new one, though the bend on my old one is less of an angle and a little harder to control.
 
I happened to be in the Leather Factory in San Antonio yesterday buying some dyes and finish products and I noticed the 83001 series of "Pro Classic Edgers" They look pretty good quality wise and if the steel and heat treat is on par they looked very good. $39.95 full retail and cheaper for Club and Elite buyers, I did notice that to my eye their number 2 is really more like what I think of as a number 3 and so on. In other words you may want to step down one number to obtain the edge you have in mind.

Paul
 
J Von, congrats on grabbing a great tool. I'm still in that place where I'm replacing inferior tools with higher end stuff. Best to start out with quality stuff if possible. :)
 
Thanks!

I agree also; and having good quality tools to me is like an investment. I am in the process of finishing a small 10" O.L. knife made from O1 and looking forward to making the leather sheath for it really soon so I am excited to get going soon on this.
 
My order from Weaver arrived and like Paul mentioned above this #2 from weaver looks to be a hair wider than my #3 that came from China. So I am really glad now that I took all your advice about sticking with a #2 or #3 max. The only thing I would say is that I think it could have been sharper, but does look to be well made so I will just have to put my new sharpening board to use sooner than I thought.
 
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