Buying Steel Today ???

Fiddleback

Fiddleback

Knifemaker
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Dang. Buying steel today (admiral) and noticed that my beloved 01 is 2x the price of 1095. Is that for real? And 1080 is cheap as snot too.

???????

What can be used to quench 1080? I use peanut oil for 01, and Parks 50 for 1095.

Also, is CRA 1095 the cold rolled stuff, and HR 1095 the hot rolled stuff?

And, is cold rolled 1095 better?
 
I just got some of their cold rolled anealled 1095. I haven't used it yet but it is nice and shiny.

Allen
 
Fiddleback said:
Dang. Buying steel today (admiral) and noticed that my beloved 01 is 2x the price of 1095. Is that for real? And 1080 is cheap as snot too.


Also, is CRA 1095 the cold rolled stuff, and HR 1095 the hot rolled stuff?

And, is cold rolled 1095 better?
Click to expand...

Yes: You can quench just like you did with the 1095. Hope this was of help. Later :thumbup:
 
The price difference is because 01 is a tool steel and is precision ground, where 1095 and 1080 are not.

Of your two oil choices, I would quench 1080 in Park's 50.
 
Thanks Guys!

So 1080 is a fast quench steel?? If thats not ideal I can buy new quench oil for it!!
 
1080 does not need as fast an oil as 1095 because it is higher in manganese (deeper hardening) but Park's 50 will work just fine.
 
O1 i've found is actually cheaper than 1080/1095 for me, but I buy all my O1 as drill rod from fastenal in my town rather than online with shipping. Hot rolled and cold rolled anealed steels are not precision ground, and only aproximately (within tolerances) the size that it's listed as.
 
Thank you all. This was a big help.

Anybody knowhow to keep the Parks 50 from flaming up so bad???
 
How do you completely submerse a blade that you're edge quenching?? I'm trying to hold the edge in the oil but the flames are roaring and it scares the shit out of me...

I'm know I'm probably doing something wrong... Please don't take the question the wrong way.
 
If you're edge quenching, but heating the whole blade and not just the edge, there's nothing you can do to stop the flare up. A lot of people who just edge quench use a torch to only head the edge of their blade so they are effectivly submerging the hot part of the blade (thus the lack of tons of flames) but if the top of your blade is not submerged it's going to be hot enough to keep the oil ignited for quite some time.
 
The only blade that I quenched in 10w30 was 1080 and it did not get nearly hard enough. Don't have a lot of experience w/ 10w30 though, and it was the first try w/ 1080, so it could be a fluke.
 
Any Cal. said:
The only blade that I quenched in 10w30 was 1080 and it did not get nearly hard enough. Don't have a lot of experience w/ 10w30 though, and it was the first try w/ 1080, so it could be a fluke.
Click to expand...

I have use it for as long as I can remember. I come out with a 59 to 62 1/2 on the hardness. This is what I want in a using knife. I do a color check, File check, Hardness Test on the Rockwell. I been know to beat them on concrete just see if I can break one. I have also check them in the vice and been the hell of them. One thing I have come to realize is that when it's right, it right. I like a hard edge and soft back for my knives. I have never had one crack or wrap. It may be because I grind my knives hard.
 
dont be afraid of fire! the 10w30 will flame allot too. i use it exclusively for 5160 and it works great. i tried 1080 for a while and it cracked most of the time in 10w30... could just be me though.
-Lou
 
I've read a lot of good stuff about 1080 around here.

Is it going to crack on me more often???? Should I just stick with the 01. The results can't be argued with...
 
well, i was using a harrow disk, so mine was used steel, but i checked thoroughly for cracks before and during, and found none, i normalized and all, but when i edge quenched it in the oil, 3 out of 5 so far went ping. the post is here if interested: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=511082 you may have better luck with new steel. but for me, i have no reason to use anything other than 5160 for now, it works great for me in all respects and makes a hell of a tough sharp knife. plus i have a ton of it.
-Lou
 
Yep, edge quench will flame up.

I would much rather make knives from 1084 than 1080. Some of Admiral's 1080 is very low in carbon. Get some 1084 from Mace or Aldo or stick with 01 or 1095.

Barkes, 59 to 62 Rc quenched in 10/30. Right out of the quench or after tempering??? You should get around 65 Rc before tempering, if you're not, then your oil ain't doing it's job.

A blade with higher hardness as quenched will be a much better blade than one that didn't reach as high a hardness. Same steels, same temper and same hardness after temper, the blade that was harder at quench will perform much better. This is the main reason to use to right quench oil for the chosen steel.
 
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