C Shaped Scales

Crag the Brewer

I make Nice, boring knives
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I've been wanting to use more variety of scale materials.

I bought some stag scales for about $36

I'm not sure if this is normal, but the are Very Curved. I'm not sure what to do with them?

If this is normal, what do most people do....Boil them? Soak them in chemicals to soften them, and clamp them to something?

I would like to keep them long, they are around 4+ inches long.

Worst case, I cut them in half (and use them as bolsters, butts, or accents?

Fortunately I use fasteners as hardware, Not pins. So with my screws and adhesive glued to a micarta liner might help. I just need to take out this initial Curve.


Thanks for all suggestions.
 
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Hi buddy,
Don’t think you’ll have too much luck with any straightening techniques. Bone is kinda stubborn that way. I think you’re on the right track with segments for that piece if it’s really curled. It’s difficult to find pieces that make really good straight handle stock in some species. I’m sure you’ll find some use for it. Good luck 👍
 
Are they curved where they won't sit flat on a tang (IE like a U when looking at the scale from the short side?) or curved like a drop handle?
 
I've been wanting to use more variety of scale materials.

I bought some stag scales for about $36

I'm not sure if this is normal, but the are Very Curved. I'm not sure what to do with them?

If this is normal, what do most people do....Boil them? Soak them in chemicals to soften them, and clamp them to something?

I would like to keep them long, they are around 4+ inches long.

Worst case, I cut them in half (and use them as bolsters, butts, or accents?

Fortunately I use fasteners as hardware, Not pins. So with my screws and adhesive glued to a micarta liner might help. I just need to take out this initial Curve.


Thanks for all suggestions.
You can try boiling them until they’re fairly soft, then immediately place in a vice under light pressure. This should remove most of the curve.
 
I'd return if possible. Nothing should be delivered like that. What are they anyway, they look exotic?
 
Hmmm. Even with steaming/clamping, I am not sure if they wouldn't curl back up over time? Sending them back may be the best way to go.
 
I'd return if possible. Nothing should be delivered like that. What are they anyway, they look exotic?

I believe they are dyed, sambar? Stag.

It's my First time buying stag I wasn't sure if they are always like this?

If it is to be expected to deal/grind off that much warp?
 
I have had luck recently flattening stag scales that I cut from an antler.
I soaked the scale in water with vinegar and a drop or two of Dawn dishwashing liquid for a couple of days.
When I took them out of the solution, the stag didn't seem at all pliable, but I put it in the vise (with soft wood over the jaws) and screwed it down until it was straight. I left the piece in the vise for a couple of days.
When I took it out, it remained straight. Skeptical, I put it aside for a week or so. So far, it hasn't moved at all.
It's going on a very old and rare knife with pins-so I have to be careful it stays flat.
 
I've been straightening Red Deer antlers here in Mexico for the last ten years or so. The following is directly from my website.......

"Mostly I work with the antlers of Red Deer (Cervus elaphus) raised on a government ranch in Tzucacab, two hours south of Merida. Twenty years ago a herd of a thousand red deer were imported from New Zealand and distributed around the country, where they have thrived. The ranched meat takes some of the pressure off of the local deer (although most of the deer are taken by subsistence hunters who can’t afford to buy the ranch raised meat). Workers collect and sell the shed horns. The skins are tanned and sold as well.

The Red Deer antlers present challenges – they have a lot of pith and they grow in twists and curves. At first I had a lot of waste – trying to cut straight pieces out of the curves. Most pieces were either too thick in the center or too thick at the ends, so I lost a lot of the antlers surface texture while trying to even out the thickness.

But, by studying how the old Sheffield knifemakers worked antler, I’ve learned how to process them more efficiently, and get more beautiful handles. 19th century cutlers often hafted their exhibition knives with stag horn from the Scottish Red Deer – the same species being raised in Yucatan. Now, to fully utilize the antler, I split it with the curve, parallel to the outer surface, and then grind away most of the porous pith from the inside. I’m left with thin, twisted and curved pieces, each of uniform thickness – some curving inwards, some outwards. I put them into a kettle of boiling water for a couple of hours to soften. Then I take them out, twist and bend them straight, and clamp them between boards to stay flat while they dry. I then thin and flatten them further, working from the back, until they’re of the correct dimensions.

A final refinement in the processing of the Red Deer antlers has come with Logwood (Haematoxylum campechianum). The Spanish first cut the Logwood trees of Campeche in the 16th century and sent the wood by ship to Europe, where it was used in dyes for fabric and in inks and paints. But the Sheffield horn and bone workers used it, too. They added Logwood chips to the boiling water used to soften the antlers for straightening. The natural pigments from the wood darkened the otherwise pale Scottish Red Deer antlers. Now I do the same. Today, though, in Campeche, Logwood is very difficult to find, as the Spanish, English and later, the Mexicans, cut it almost to extinction. Fortunately it also still grows in Central America and on some Caribbean islands, where it was introduced."

There is one more step between the Logwood boil and flattening...... to "fix" the dye and trun it dark, the antler scales are boiled in water with an added mordant, Ferrous Sulfate. Then clamped flat.
Sludos
J

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Ok, I've got nothing to lose....
I'll try the soaking method.

Here is the Before pictures.
I'll update this post in about an week.
I'm not in a hurry for the scales, I don't have a knife slated for them yet





 
I haven’t done a lot of straightening, I have had success using a heat gun and clamping the textured side down on a flat surface. Be careful not to burn them.

Hoss
 
Adding an acid (vinegar) to the boiling water will dissolve the calcium (hydroxyapatite) that gives bone rigidity. It leaves behind the collagen matrix. You can definitely flatten the scales by using the vinegar method, but I have no clue how much of their strength the scales might lose, if any, in terms of a knife handle.
 
I have had luck recently flattening stag scales that I cut from an antler.
I soaked the scale in water with vinegar and a drop or two of Dawn dishwashing liquid for a couple of days.
When I took them out of the solution, the stag didn't seem at all pliable, but I put it in the vise (with soft wood over the jaws) and screwed it down until it was straight. I left the piece in the vise for a couple of days.
When I took it out, it remained straight. Skeptical, I put it aside for a week or so. So far, it hasn't moved at all.
It's going on a very old and rare knife with pins-so I have to be careful it stays flat.

That was a good use of skeptical.
 
I use the same basic method as J.D.
Boil for several hours in a vinegar water solution of 1cup white vinegar to 1 gallon water. I clamp against a flat wooden board. Works for most horn and antler. It is the same method used to make water buffalo horn scales and artwork.

I have read of using hematoxylin dye to darken the antler, but never tried it. It leaves a dark brown/black color.
Most folks here in the USA use potassium permanganate.
Hematoxylin dye is available from Amazon and all lab suppliers. It isn't cheap, but a small amount makes a powerful dye. I used it in lab work back in the 1960's. I think a water base wood dye would work just as well.
 
I use the same basic method as J.D.
Boil for several hours in a vinegar water solution of 1cup white vinegar to 1 gallon water. I clamp against a flat wooden board. Works for most horn and antler. It is the same method used to make water buffalo horn scales and artwork.

I have read of using hematoxylin dye to darken the antler, but never tried it. It leaves a dark brown/black color.
Just to clarify Stacy's reference........ I do not use vinegar in the water. I boil the antler scales in only water and logwood chips. I then do a second boil in a pot of water and ferrous sulfate. The antler comes out of the logwood infusion a purple color, which is not stable. The ferrous sulfate solution turns the color dark brown/black and also stabilizes, or fixes, the color.

Yes, refined hematoxylin stains and dyes for lab use can be very expensive, For our purposes, it's less costly to buy raw Logwood chips, shavings or powder. Even Logwood trap dye - if you can be sure it's really logwood.....some suppliers are using a petroleum based material and still calling it logwood.

No doubt there are many other dyes and stains that work well on deer antler. My interest in this particular method of coloring was simply to try and duplicate a traditional method that was used on some beautiful old knives that I very much like.

Saludos
J
 
AEB-L stag

Put them on something with AEB-L?
I have a bunch, but everything I do is kinda big for these..... I'm going to have to come up with a New model. I've got a new, small skinner idea that might work
 
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