C1G tactical utility knife

C

Camden

Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
95
Just got my 1095 from Aldo tonight.... Been in the shop grinding. Found a good stoping point and I am jazzed about how this puppy is shaping out.
SeGn45yD_original.jpg
 
Thanks frank. I made a jig for the bevel but it's flimsy and a pain to get pieces in and out. Any suggestions on a new jig setup?
 
Many swear by the bubble jig, which is more guide than jig. I think It can also help teach good grinding technique.
 
I'm all ears! This knife I posted had sweet crisp lines.... Then I went to touch it up and my flimsy jig moved... I'm hoping to cover it up with the acid etch.... Hopefully
 
Re-setting a jig is no small task, I don't like to have to re-set a location on my drill press. I feel and the bubble jig users seem to feel that you use the jig/guide to get things going in the right direction. After you have established a reasonable amount of surface area to "feel," you freehand it. I freehand with the help of a rest in most cases, but I apply pressure where it needs it most. Frank Niro said something recently that I am giving serious consideration, that slow or over grinding will never produce a flat bevel (along those lines). I also saw a video where some sweet grinder put his primary bevels on in under 2 minutes on a 3" or so blade. I can't do that, but I'm going to try. It makes some sense to me that passes that cut a lot can tend to be straighter, like drawing a fast line versus drawing a slow line on paper. PM Fred Rowe or Jonny Mac. I bet they help you.
 
Personally, I scribe the lines I want to grind to and basically work freehand with no jigs. I "set" the angle of the file (or the blade, if I'm using the grinder) by eye, make a few passes, stop to check that I like where things are going... do a few more passes... stop to check again... and so on. A lot of the guys talk about "muscle memory". I rely on that heavile when filing my bevels. I haven't developed muscle memory for using my grinder yet.

When using files, every grind starts off being "convex", but gets flattened out once I have cut in to the boundaries. For example, I cut in a plunge line first starting from the outside edge and working my way to the point where the grinding stops for that bevel (e.g. center line on daggers or the transition line for regular blades). Once that's done to the point I have a well defined start/stop point (ricasso), I start doing the long strokes that carry that angle out for the rest of the blade. Muscle memory usually kicks in before I'm even halfway done with the first bevel, which makes it easier to keep the bevels nice and flat from top to bottom. This also works on recurves, but you end up having to vary the angle slightly (or you'd end up with a wavy center line or an uneven edge).

The point is, you can do it all freehand. Jigs can be helpful, but they can also become crutches. I tried using jigs some time ago but basically found (as you seem to have found) that they don't help as much as they get in the way.
 
tryppyr said:
Personally, I scribe the lines I want to grind to and basically work freehand with no jigs. I "set" the angle of the file (or the blade, if I'm using the grinder) by eye, make a few passes, stop to check that I like where things are going... do a few more passes... stop to check again... and so on. A lot of the guys talk about "muscle memory". I rely on that heavile when filing my bevels. I haven't developed muscle memory for using my grinder yet.

When using files, every grind starts off being "convex", but gets flattened out once I have cut in to the boundaries. For example, I cut in a plunge line first starting from the outside edge and working my way to the point where the grinding stops for that bevel (e.g. center line on daggers or the transition line for regular blades). Once that's done to the point I have a well defined start/stop point (ricasso), I start doing the long strokes that carry that angle out for the rest of the blade. Muscle memory usually kicks in before I'm even halfway done with the first bevel, which makes it easier to keep the bevels nice and flat from top to bottom. This also works on recurves, but you end up having to vary the angle slightly (or you'd end up with a wavy center line or an uneven edge).

The point is, you can do it all freehand. Jigs can be helpful, but they can also become crutches. I tried using jigs some time ago but basically found (as you seem to have found) that they don't help as much as they get in the way.
Click to expand...

Greg I have been watching all the videos of kikou matsuda doing his freehand grinds. Me being an artist I am set on learning this art. I have about 3 feet or so left of 1095 so I know I won't master it in 3 feet but I'll get some good practice.

Here's the c1g tu finished with temp paracord handles.(I forgot to drill holes before ht) I'm gonna drill the holes either tonight or tomorrow.
A9uV0nN4_original.jpg
cpcArPHu_original.jpg
uEjiIasD_original.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top