Caly3 in ZDP-189 and Carbon Fiber

Joined
Nov 16, 2002
Messages
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I've had this puppy ever since Mike, Tom, Mary Beth, and Annie stocked it at NGK:

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Lockup, fit, finish, and ease of carry were all very satisfying. The edge could've been thinner, but, well, they made it thin enough so fixing it with 120 grit hone was very quick. ZDP-189 takes a very polished edge and holds it quite well so long as you don't touch twist ties. It sails through cardboard, plastic from company ID cards, old shoes filled with dirt and sand, and more cardboard with ease and applomb. When the edge is thinner than its factory face and it's been blunted and dented from cutting twist ties without support, it still cuts with a fair amount of ease. The blade is laminated and the soft sides will show every scratch of every cut, but they polish flat easily enough. If you're a collector, you should nab the user and a safequeen.

The coppery, dark wire pocketclip is my favorite pocketclip among every production and custom knife's pocketclip I've ever seen or experienced. With the carbon fiber scales, it grips one's pocket without abrading it the way the G-10 of the VG10-bladed Caly3 can. Both pocketknives allow for fairly discreet carry although nested liners would be even less visible. Kind of like that blue FRN Delica 4.

So after cutting up old sneakers and plastic and cardboard, the edge was only shaving sharp, but it quickly went to tree-topping sharp with light stropping on polishing cloth (tried lapping film, but accidently sliced it :o ). Most of my high-carbide stainless knives need more intensive re-honing when they dull and tend to get duller than shaving sharp when it happens. I'm very impressed with ZDP-189 and very thin edges.
I am very pleased with Spyderco's Caly3 folding pocketknife and recommend it to people who like knives that cut with very little force. I prefer the ZDP-189 and carbon fiber scales version over the VG-10 and G-10 scales version, but both are great choices.
 
A side note is that ZDP-189 is my favorite high-carbide stainless steel and I'm psyched that two of the most innovative knifemaking companies use it in their folders more and more.
 
what is polishing cloth? does it really cut arm hair w/o touching skin? I've never seen a knife do that, not even when it's described as scary sharp (say, certain customs).
 
I need a raise, I like it a lot, espescially after you thinned it out!

You don't need both of your kidneys, do you? ;) Just make a swear jar to help you save your pennies and then listen to some West Coast rap whenever appropriate to accelerate your savings.

what is polishing cloth? does it really cut arm hair w/o touching skin? I've never seen a knife do that, not even when it's described as scary sharp (say, certain customs).

Polishing cloth is a very soft cloth which has micro-fine abrasives on one side. You can buy from www.ottofrei.com or www.popsknifesupplies.com in the USA.

The edge easily cuts armhair without touching skin. It can even split armhair without touching skin. Many softer steels with factory heat-treats (such as 13C26, 52100, VG-10, S30V....) can do it, too.

The most important part of the equation is that the edge meets in a perfectly straight line (although right behind the edge can and almost always will be convexed) and the second most important part is that the scratches left on the edge from sharpening are very small.
 
congrats and thanx for the great review Thom.... I also prefer the slimmer profile of the CF Caly3 over the G10..... :cool:
 
This is a great knife! Light and solid. The CF is not slippery.
Great pocket clip. I don't even know I'm carrying it. Doesn't move. The CF is very grippy.
Great edge. Super sharp out of the box. I may thin it out but I'm in no hurry.
It's plenty sharp. Not one bit of blade play and lock is very secure.
Great EDC. I hold it a notch above the Kershaw Ti/ZDP overall but the Ti/ZDP is a solid knife.
The overall fit & finish is slightly superior to the Kershaw. I paid the same for both and I feel I got better value from the Caly.
The finger choil design on the Caly allows for a much more comfortable grip.
This is my new Favorite. I also have a Military CF/BG-42 on the way. I will review it also. Pictures of all my new knives coming soon.
 
thinking of getting one now

I got one the second I saw it available at New Graham and am kicking myself for waiting that long.

MostLarge,

The lock is the only part of the knife that I felt could be 'better.' It's secure, but it doesn't seat as deeply as my other Spyderco brand lockbacks so the spectre of unease is always there.
 
I got one the second I saw it available at New Graham and am kicking myself for waiting that long.

MostLarge,

The lock is the only part of the knife that I felt could be 'better.' It's secure, but it doesn't seat as deeply as my other Spyderco brand lockbacks so the spectre of unease is always there.

I noticed the same thing with the G10 Caly compared to a Caly JR. Thought I was nuts. :)
 
Thombrogan,

Do you have a Manix?
If so, how would you compare the lock to the Caly 3?
I will be adding a Manix soon.

I did not find anything to make me uneasy about the lock.
Then again it is not a big knife and I wouldn't use this knife in a situation where I would have to concern myself w/the lock. Mainly for light use (boxes and such) and SD.
 
I have had one for a little over a month now and like it a lot. To me this knife is best in class. Good steel, good clip, good lock, good handle material, good design, etc. A very enjoyable knife. Spyderco did a very good job with this one.

JD
 
Do you have a Manix?
If so, how would you compare the lock to the Caly 3?
I will be adding a Manix soon.

Yep. Not only have one, but I put its clip over for right-handed folks and am selling it on the exchange. Its lock feels a lot more secure because you have to press the lockbar deeper into the handle before it releases. The Caly3's lock, while actually quite secure, is disengaged with barely any movement in comparison. It's not even a real issue, but if Sal is taking unsolicited notes for the upcoming Stretch II (another great design made even better with ZDP-189 and carbon-fiber), it's the note I've made here.

I have had one for a little over a month now and like it a lot. To me this knife is best in class. Good steel, good clip, good lock, good handle material, good design, etc. A very enjoyable knife. Spyderco did a very good job with this one.

Absolutely! Takes everything good about the Caly3, ZDP-189, and carbon fiber and makes a synergistic fusion of a high order. Smooth action and a thin edge make it even more fun (and if the edge is too thick, it's thin enough to rebevel without going too insane).
 
I've carried the Caly ZDP CF for two weeks now, just light cutting. There's one thing that sucks about the blade...it's the 420J laminate...it's way too soft and scratches easily. I wish Spyderco would've made them in full ZDP. at the price point (compare it with Endura / Delica ZDPs), I think full ZDP is in order.

as a cutting machine - it just rocks! and the carbon fibre is done right, not glossy but matt, and not slippery.
 
These are nice knives! I'm having some "issues" with a Caly Jr. in ZDP. It seems to burr more than usual, and I'm finding that a coarse finish (DMT red or blue) is doing better for this one. I'm out on the road, but will do the "cut into the stone" technique of Cliff and Gunmike1 to remove all the weak metal and try again. This steel has some potential, though!
 
I had those same issues with my ZDP D4 and resolved them in the same manner.

So you're saying you don't back a few blue plastic cases of Norton waterstones in your car and luggage? ;)
 
thom, are you saying the chipping problems can be removed by a fresh resharpening? what grit do you recommend the edge be sharpened? once I've dulled my Caly ZDP CF (don't know when), I'm going to send it out to a knifemaker for a resharpening....I could do it on my edgepro but I haven't mastered how to do the tip yet....
 
Spyken,

The chips can be removed that way or they can be avoided by not cutting pieces of steel.

I sharpened my VG10 Caly3 on the EdgePro and figured out how to get to the tip. Use a two-step process. Arrange the blade table so that the edge near the ricasso and the blade stop touches the spine near the opening hole. Sharpen the edge hanging over the table with one back-and-forth stroke on the EdgePro's movement arm. Ease the handle of the Caly3 back and down so that the curve of the edge containing the tip is now hanging over the blade table and sharpen in the same manner. From there, you can either ease the handle forward and up to resharpen the first part of the blade or you can flip the knife over and sharpen the opposite side.

Does that description make any sense?

As far as grit goes, it depends on how you cut. Most all of my cuts involve pushcutting, so a high-grit finish (14,000+) is what I choose.
 
These are nice knives! I'm having some "issues" with a Caly Jr. in ZDP. It seems to burr more than usual, and I'm finding that a coarse finish (DMT red or blue) is doing better for this one. I'm out on the road, but will do the "cut into the stone" technique of Cliff and Gunmike1 to remove all the weak metal and try again. This steel has some potential, though!

Cliff told me about that technique, and it works great. Getting rid of any weakened or fatigued metal before sharpening helps tremendously with minimizing the burr. My Caly Jr. ZDP (thanks again for that one, Sodak!) does burr on me a little if I get too heavy handed, but I would bet if I was using a high end waterstone that cut a bit cleaner than my ceramics I may have better luck in minimizing the burr with ZDP. When I don't use too much pressure the steel doesn't burr too bad, but with ZDP it is a fine line of using enough pressure to abrade it and small enough pressure not to get any burrs. It does takes a great slicing edge with the red DMT stone, it shaves like a champ and cuts a long time before going dull. I have found, and I think Cliff has mentioned this before, that I don't have much in the way of burr issues with my coarser stones, it is when I start to polish more that I can get a little pesky burr that won't quit. Then I just cut into the stone and start over if a few elevated strokes won't remove the burr.

Mike
 
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